chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Another thing,. How did you determine that all 4 neck bolts are torqued ideally? Is it possible that the tension and even alignment on the neck within the pocket might be affecting your tuning?
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OP
The body is a 1982 Fender and, of course, the Warmoth neck is Fender spec and the holes were pre-drilled, so the fit in the pocket is literally like a puzzle piece. I see no movement at all anywhere.
OP
In looking at this more closely, the Graph Tech Tusq XL nut is really incredibly soft. With long-post tuners, I don't think that would be an issue, but with short, vintage tuners, it seems to be.
OP
The sharpness is dramatic. I couldn't compensate for it.
OP
I could probably figure this out eventually, but I just don't have the time to keep investing in it right now.
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
I know you said you put 5 springs on. I can't see the your pushing behind the nut would flex the bridge forward into pitch from 3 cents off at resting fully slack. Plus the other strings are in spec. How deep is your slot? I know you said it is wider than the .o46. Are you swapping in a different string or brand string each time you dress the slot and still getting the issue? Maybe try a E from a set of 11's and see if it tunes up better?
Beagle
Ambassador of Slippin' and a Slidin'
The Graphtech Tusq nut on my old ST54 is years old, never had any problems with it
OP
I cut the slot to about .050" and is about 2/3rds the depth of the string diameter.
I swapped on GHS Boomers in .042 x .009 and a set of Fender bullets with no change in behavior.
OP
Mine has the black graph tech and the low E is sawing the crap out of it.
OP
When I was actively playing my 1987 Fender Squirecaster, I used the stock tremolo so much that I would wear out a nut in about 2 months. Keep in mind this was playing in the studio and gigging almost every day.
The E/A/D would cut their nut slots deep enough that the strings would fret out on the first fret and a new nut was needed.
Bone seemed to last the longest and brass lasted longer than bone.
Here's my Isolated tracks from a studio recording if you want to hear an example of how I used the stock, Fender 6 screw tremolo on the 1987 Squire shown above.
This is a tremolo dive to zero tension, with the strings rattling on the bridge pickup, then a return to pitch with 15 rapid undulations.
Listen to Perfect Strangers - Tremolo Dive - Isolated Tracks by Von Herndon on #SoundCloud
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Never had any trouble with the Squire returning to pitch and it had 38 year old, stock 'F' tuners on it and Stamped steel saddles...
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OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
When I was actively playing my 1987 Fender Squirecaster, I used the stock tremolo so much that I would wear out a nut in about 2 months. Keep in mind this was playing in the studio and gigging almost every day.
View attachment 60863
The E/A/D would cut their nut slots deep enough that the strings would fret out on the first fret and a new nut was needed.
Bone seemed to last the longest and brass lasted longer than bone.
Here's my Isolated tracks from a studio recording if you want to hear an example of how I used the stock, Fender 6 screw tremolo on the 1987 Squire shown above.
This is a tremolo dive to zero tension, with the strings rattling on the bridge pickup, then a return to pitch with 15 rapid undulations.
Listen to Perfect Strangers - Tremolo Dive - Isolated Tracks by Von Herndon on #SoundCloud
SoundCloud - Hear the world’s sounds
Explore the largest community of artists, bands, podcasters and creators of music & audiosoundcloud.app.goo.gl
Never had any trouble with the Squire returning to pitch and it had 38 year old, stock 'F' tuners on it and Stamped steel saddles...
I am beginning to get the picture. Robert, YOU are as Hard on NUTS as you are on Plectrums.,
I am thinking that a Tusq nut is fine for Hard Tail usage. Not so good for Whammy bar gymnastics day after day.
SO, let your Fender friend work up a Brass nut. My only nut swap ever was a luthier cut and installed bone nut on a EPI LP no Whammy.
Now, here is my other take on your STRAT Construct vs Strat Usage. I am sure numerous Strat playing artists and semi pro/ pro players have Whammys and use them significantly. They must have a work around for their nuts other than replace em every couple months. I would think the nut slot in the neck itself would wear out and make a useless neck if so.
I have seen the Roller NUTS but I am sure you have a reason for not using those. Then what is stopping you from using a Floyd Type Locking nut on this neck? Forgive me if I do not know all details and specs on what a Floyd nut might fit or not. BUT I am sure it would eliminate to and fro sawing motion and thus tuning instabilities.
More thought is needed for me with more research,,,,,,,,,, this is all I can think of at this point. Let your friend help you sort it out and trust in his experience.
Players Strat
YJM Strat Brass nut
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chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Beag, I bet you do not dive bomb like operating a chain saw like Robert apparently does. I trust my Bone nut in my Epi LP will last forever as it never gets much if any back and forth unless it is during string changes.
Beagle
Ambassador of Slippin' and a Slidin'
No, I play tasteful music.
The bone nut I put in my CSL has been there since the 1990s.
Sp8ctre
Ambassador of Steel
Robert, I have a brand new Fender roller nut. You think that would help?
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
HAHA Chris read my mind
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
String spacing is the main issue I am thinking might make Robert forego on a Roller Bridge or Locking bridge, as he now has a really wide nut bridge and likes the more distance in between strings a custom slotted nut might afford.