New Family Build - Amp Cab

It probably stems from back in the olden days they would use all those holes to mount that speaker but its not really nessisary.
 
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Just in case you haven't heard of the proper method to install speakers.

From Scumback Speakers website:
Scumback FAQs

How to install your speakers for maximum tonal enjoyment.
When mounting your speakers, use caution. Vintage style frames (thinner) require that you mount the speakers using an X pattern method.

A) Tighten all bolts/screws finger tight till the bolt meets back of the speaker frame.

B) Hand tighten in a cross frame or X pattern like a head gasket on a car engine. DO NOT TIGHTEN in a clock-wise circular fashion as you can warp the frame.

C) Tighten 1/4 turn on each bolt in an X pattern in one pass, then the other 1/4 to 1/2 successive turns in successive passes. This will compress the gasket enough to ensure a proper seal, and without warping the frame. I recommend no more than 1 full turn after the bolt meets the back of the frame, usually 2/3 to 3/4 is good.

Failure to do this could result in a damaged cone, bent frame, or unusually high shrill, or muddy bass noises from over-tightening.

DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC DRILL SET TO A TORQUE SETTING!


Copyright © Scumback Speakers & Cabs, Inc. 2004 - 2014
 
syscokid said:
Just in case you haven't heard of the proper method to install speakers.

From Scumback Speakers website:
Scumback FAQs

How to install your speakers for maximum tonal enjoyment.
When mounting your speakers, use caution. Vintage style frames (thinner) require that you mount the speakers using an X pattern method.

A) Tighten all bolts/screws finger tight till the bolt meets back of the speaker frame.

B) Hand tighten in a cross frame or X pattern like a head gasket on a car engine. DO NOT TIGHTEN in a clock-wise circular fashion as you can warp the frame.

C) Tighten 1/4 turn on each bolt in an X pattern in one pass, then the other 1/4 to 1/2 successive turns in successive passes. This will compress the gasket enough to ensure a proper seal, and without warping the frame. I recommend no more than 1 full turn after the bolt meets the back of the frame, usually 2/3 to 3/4 is good.

Failure to do this could result in a damaged cone, bent frame, or unusually high shrill, or muddy bass noises from over-tightening.

DO NOT USE AN ELECTRIC DRILL SET TO A TORQUE SETTING!


Copyright © Scumback Speakers & Cabs, Inc. 2004 - 2014
Click to expand...
Very helpful. Thank you!
 
I mount through all the holes because they are there, and I have this OCD thing. I believe to distribute the tension across the basket.
I think 4 would be just fine though.
Either way, good info from syscokid to not overtighten and warp the frame.

You shouldn't have to use a wooden block and hammer to straighten it out either, but thats another story.....
 
Ya your not tightening head bolts on a car engine so they just need to be tight enough to not vibrate loose.Use the little star washers .These will hold the nut snug .
 
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Id just use one of those screw driver type with a little long neck socket on it to tighten the nuts.Your not as apt to over tighten the screws with this type of tool.
 
syscokid said:
Tell me a story... :shock:
Click to expand...

Once upon a time a cheap old bastard started building his own tube amps,......
The speaker in the photo is an Eminence Legend GB128. It is temporarily in that subwoofer cab (another build from 1991) until I build the 1x12 18w TMB combo.
Anyway, I received the speaker damaged with some dents / creases in the cone and the rim of the basket was bent back pretty badly in one spot.
The seller credited me and said keep it; they didnt have any more.
So in the box it sat for over a year, until I decided to see if I could salvage it and it works fine after a little hammer and dolly work.
And I used all the screw holes!!
And it sounds great.
IMG_0846.-2jpg.jpg
 
jtcnj said:
Once upon a time a cheap old bastard started building his own tube amps,......
The speaker in the photo is an Eminence Legend GB128. It is temporarily in that subwoofer cab (another build from 1991) until I build the 1x12 18w TMB combo.
Anyway, I received the speaker damaged with some dents / creases in the cone and the rim of the basket was bent back pretty badly in one spot.
The seller credited me and said keep it; they didnt have any more.
So in the box it sat for over a year, until I decided to see if I could salvage it and it works fine after a little hammer and dolly work.
And I used all the screw holes!!
And it sounds great.
View attachment 5934
Click to expand...
Well now... that's a happy ending to a new beginning... (y)
 
20170620_214339_zps74lyuuur.JPG 20170620_214346_zpszac4ish0.JPG 20170620_214404_zpsifcrehea.JPG 20170620_214411_zpsvsj38ya5.JPG 20170620_214511_zpswdjqg4xv.JPG 20170620_214525_zps8pa8wlac.JPG 20170620_214529_zpsqtzbio6x.JPG Well, putting the box together make me realize how hacky and imperfect my cuts were. As a result, I had to trim the baffle and back and now must make a new frame. The shawl grill may be a casualty of my inexperience. That said, she is looking OK
 
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filler is your friend. The covering will hide any sins.
Progress is looking good. Finding hobby time in all our busy lives is not easy.
 
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