OP
I'm really good at making things difficult...
I think you are a talented fellow, but they don't make these PCB's to be modified.
High Voltages After Headfirst Origin 50 Mod
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I think you are a talented fellow, but they don't make these PCB's to be modified.
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
Disposable! If a cap fails then it will be cheaper to toss the whole board and replace it with a new one.
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
Lead free solder is a pain in the butt, especially when you're also dealing with these types PC boards, but here's a couple of tips;
Use a "tip refresher" compound
The small can adheres to your soldering station with double sided tape, the compound looks like a chunk of plastic
I wont use a damp sponge at all when working with this type solder, rather, one of the stainless steel wool tip cleaners, then roll the tip in the refresher,,, it (among other things) acts as a wetting agent so aids heat transfer.
Once the component(s) are removed from the board, do not try to wick or vacuum pump the
lead free solder from the board's solder pads, rather, using a micro chuck & micro drill bits
drill through the solder that is filling or blocking the board's through hole(s) "from the component side of the board." You can throw the chuck into one of those $2 battery powered/rechargeable screwdrivers to make this easier/quicker. Hope this helps. Cheers
Use a "tip refresher" compound
The small can adheres to your soldering station with double sided tape, the compound looks like a chunk of plastic
I wont use a damp sponge at all when working with this type solder, rather, one of the stainless steel wool tip cleaners, then roll the tip in the refresher,,, it (among other things) acts as a wetting agent so aids heat transfer.
Once the component(s) are removed from the board, do not try to wick or vacuum pump the
lead free solder from the board's solder pads, rather, using a micro chuck & micro drill bitsdrill through the solder that is filling or blocking the board's through hole(s) "from the component side of the board." You can throw the chuck into one of those $2 battery powered/rechargeable screwdrivers to make this easier/quicker. Hope this helps. Cheers
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
This is what I use. Is this the same thing?
I never use a damp sponge, ever. I always use the softer brass wool.
Now you tell me...Once the component(s) are removed from the board, do not try to wick or vacuum pump the
drill through the solder that is filling or blocking the board's through hole(s) "from the component side of the board." You can throw the chuck into one of those $2 battery powered/rechargeable screwdrivers to make this easier/quicker. Hope this helps. Cheers
Great tips! Thanks, Ivan
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
Yep, that's the stuff (both items), same ashtray type holder & all. I don't think the wool is brass though, because solder doesnt take to it. Solder takes to brass as readily as it does to copper.This is what I use. Is this the same thing?
View attachment 72916
I never use a damp sponge, ever. I always use the softer brass wool.
Now you tell me...
Great tips! Thanks, Ivan
Trying to wick or pump the old solder from the board's pads/holes risks heat related issues. Even though the lead free crap is harder than typical 60/40 tin/lead solder it still drills relatively easily, even if rotating the chuck with fingers.
Can't beat eyelet/turret board or tag strip/point to point type construction for ease of service/repair or modification. That said, no matter how difficult & frustrating & time consuming working with these type board is, I'm sure you'll do a good job. Cheers
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OP
No doubt, the PCB was more work than I imagined....
OP
Latest gun camera pics....
OP
Just to recap, here's the mod we are doing and the sound test of the mod starts at around 0:47 in this video below:
Jason's Guitar is a Gibson Les Paul with Suhr Thornbuckers (8.5k bridge AIV) and the amp is set with all EQ's to Noon. Gain at 1pm. No FX other than added reverb:
Jason's Guitar is a Gibson Les Paul with Suhr Thornbuckers (8.5k bridge AIV) and the amp is set with all EQ's to Noon. Gain at 1pm. No FX other than added reverb:
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OP
Never solder pickups with a gun like this. The EMF will de-gauss magnets....
Good to know thanks
ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
There's no place for these type soldering guns in electronics at all really. If one doesn't do enough soldering to warrant buying a soldering station type set-up, a "temperature controlled" pencil type iron is the go. Something like this (the temperature adjustment can be seen on the handle).
Cheers
Session 5
Ambassador of Strings & Wings
I know I'm a lone voice in the wilderness about this, but I could never understand this need to mod perfectly good amps. What is so wrong about Marshall's that has to be changed? I know it's a common (almost obsessive) thing, but I feel once you do that, it's not really a Marshall anymore.
Standing by for incoming.
Better yet just save doing the work and switch over to Orange..
I was using my dad’s in the 60’s. I have a Weller station now.I was using that same Weller gun at 8 or 9 years old in the mid-seventies. I really hated that pile of
Cadorman
Ambassador of the Catocaster
Yep. It was my dad's as well. The tip didn't heat up until you pulled the trigger. What good is that! I wanted it flesh melting hot all the time.
I‘ve heard that same thing and have had questions about it. On the one hand it theoretically makes sense, but on the other hand, I’ve wondered if that actually occurs in normal usage.
Here’s an interesting post on MyLesPaul where a person actually tested this.
The final result being that he did, in fact, measure a loss in an A5 magnet when he removed the magnet from the pickup and laid it directly on the body of the soldering gun while triggering it. However, normal soldering, to include removing and reattaching a pickup cover as many as five times had no negative effect on the gauss of the magnet.
Here‘s a link to the post.
A soldering gun will kill a Pickup?
I find a soldering iron a heck of a lot lighter and easier to use and manipulate around the work.
OP
I‘ve heard that same thing and have had questions about it. On the one hand it theoretically makes sense, but on the other hand, I’ve wondered if that actually occurs in normal usage.
Here’s an interesting post on MyLesPaul where a person actually tested this.
The final result being that he did, in fact, measure a loss in an A5 magnet when he removed the magnet from the pickup and laid it directly on the body of the soldering gun while triggering it. However, normal soldering, to include removing and reattaching a pickup cover as many as five times had no negative effect on the gauss of the magnet.
Here‘s a link to the post.
A soldering gun will kill a Pickup?
I find a soldering iron a heck of a lot lighter and easier to use and manipulate around the work.www.mylespaul.com
I tend to err on the side of caution in general....
No issues with that!
I think a soldering iron is definitely the best practice. But, if I had a quick soldering job to do on my guitar that I needed to get done and all I had was a gun, I’d use a gun without fear.
OP
UPDATE:
SHH!TLOAD OF GAIN... :dood:
:dood:
I was messing with it for around a couple of minutes at low volumes. Max gain is saturation on steroids. Dialed it back to 6 or 7 for tightness and articulation... STILL A LOT OF GAIN but very musical. Rob is going to have some fun dialing in this amp with his effects pedals.
SHH!TLOAD OF GAIN... :dood:
I was messing with it for around a couple of minutes at low volumes. Max gain is saturation on steroids. Dialed it back to 6 or 7 for tightness and articulation... STILL A LOT OF GAIN but very musical. Rob is going to have some fun dialing in this amp with his effects pedals.
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
Gotta love Norm...Better yet just save doing the work and switch over to Orange..
.