Epiphone '310' Basketcase:

Good suggestion!!! That's my next concern. However, I cut the frets thinner at the nut than at the heel so it might just work.

This certainly is not the right way to do it....


jtcnj said:
Nice work. Looks like you threaded the needle. See how it plays.
If the saddles bottom out shim the neck.
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If the radius and slotting is right now then knock it off and sand the bottom.
Stop sooner than you think and string it up, it will compress a little under tension.
 
jtcnj said:
If the radius and slotting is right now then knock it off and sand the bottom.
Stop sooner than you think and string it up, it will compress a little under tension.
Click to expand...

I think I have created a little more curvature in the frets than I wanted too. The board has a 12" radius, but its very uneven in the sections where I have measured it.

When looking at the first fret from the nut, I can see the frets are very even, but they are tapered more on the ends. I used a 12" radius block, but the problem comes in when you have to remove so much material. In doing so, you lose the natural profile of the fret.

However, its very easy to cut the nut slots to follow the "new radius" created by the extensive leveling.
 
JohnnyGoo said:
How you wear your old ones out Robert ? I mean there metal aint they ? Must of cut alot of nut slots.
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Yes, I do a lot of brass nuts for people. Now, I am not sure about these Stewie-Mac's, but it worn the Ibanez saws out enough that they don't cut quite as well....They still cut, but they have been dulled by all the brass...
 
gball said:
Really? Still? Hilarious. I haven't seen a brass nut put on a guitar since the late '70's/early '80's. Just thinking about it makes me nostalgic.
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Yes! I hold Yngwie personally responsible.... :)

I have worked out a system for doing them. After sawing, I polish with abrasive cord and lightly lube with CLP. At $165.00 installed, I can knock out several in a day...
 
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business cards.......guitar pics..........any ol thing to raise it up a "scosche"
 
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