DIY Pedal build - Rookie Style!!

Sorry RVA, I fell asleep last night & woke up freezing. Those desk mounted magnifying lamps are great. Sysco, the 10x magnifier I bought at an electronics supplier. The other was given me by an old guy who collected postage stamps & had a few off. I have no idea where to get or what its actually called. It folds up to thisWP_20180725_002.jpg WP_20180725_003.jpg
All it has written on it is Japan.
Ok, I had a thought that maybe instability arose from moving board mounted DIP switches, like thisV__3287.jpg to mini toggles connected by flying leads, but then I found this King of Tone layoutV__C95F.png at Tagboard effects. Here the clipping diodes are mounted on DPDT switches (double pole/double throw) & connected by flying leads without any reported problems, so we can assume no problem with the use of mini toggles. Now I must apologise here RVA. When I searched for a Prince of Tone layout, all I found was the point to point diagram. Now, looking at the above King of Tone Vero board (strip board) layout I found last night, it appears to be a Prince of Tone. The King of Tone is two POT's in one effect. Had I known I would have also posted the above as a Vero type build is easier. So, I sincerely apologize.
So, back to the instability/modulation problem, is there a way we can put the board underside & its relevant layout diagram up here to be viewed in the one frame??? Same with the board top side & its relevant layout diagram??? It would make checking for possible discrepancies much easier, I simply have no idea how to do it. I have got tomorrow off so can possibly be available much later tonight. Til then, Cheers
 
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ivan H said:
Sorry RVA, I fell asleep last night & woke up freezing. Those desk mounted magnifying lamps are great. Sysco, the 10x magnifier I bought at an electronics supplier. The other was given me by an old guy who collected postage stamps & had a few off. I have no idea where to get or what its actually called. It folds up to thisView attachment 16778 View attachment 16779
All it has written on it is Japan.
Ok, I had a thought that maybe instability arose from moving board mounted DIP switches, like thisView attachment 16780 to mini toggles connected by flying leads, but then I found this King of Tone layoutView attachment 16781 at Tagboard effects. Here the clipping diodes are mounted on DPDT switches (double pole/double throw) & connected by flying leads without any reported problems, so we can assume no problem with the use of mini toggles. Now I must apologise here RVA. When I searched for a Prince of Tone layout, all I found was the point to point diagram. Now, looking at the above King of Tone Vero board (strip board) layout I found last night, it appears to be a Prince of Tone. The King of Tone is two POT's in one effect. Had I known I would have also posted the above as a Vero type build is easier. So, I sincerely apologize.
So, back to the instability/modulation problem, is there a way we can put the board underside & its relevant layout diagram up here to be viewed in the one frame??? Same with the board top side & its relevant layout diagram??? It would make checking for possible discrepancies much easier, I simply have no idea how to do it. I have got tomorrow off so can possibly be available much later tonight. Til then, Cheers
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I hope you have not taken ill Ivan. Get some rest on your day off.

I will post both images in one frame as you suggest after I feel confident that the issue isn't my inability to follow the instructions and I am otherwise stumped. No apologies about the build you chose. I have learned a lot and it will be that much more satisfying once I have it working.
 
Just quickly, in the event we cant source the problem, I am ordering components from diyguitarpedals.com.au for both a point to point & Vero board type build that I'll throw together & test. If we cant sort the problem I'll mail the boards with fly leads attached to you. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
Just quickly, in the event we cant source the problem, I am ordering components from diyguitarpedals.com.au for both a point to point & Vero board type build that I'll throw together & test. If we cant sort the problem I'll mail the boards with fly leads attached to you. Cheers
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Daaaaaaaaaaaaang! You're alright, Ivan... :victoire:
 
You might be able to give your laser sighted drill press a workout with a strip board project.
:cheers:
All of those little red/white/red squares are cuts in the strip traces. Easy work with a drill press like yours, and a light touch with the right size bit. You’ll have fun with that:D seriously.
 
ivan H said:
Just quickly, in the event we cant source the problem, I am ordering components from diyguitarpedals.com.au for both a point to point & Vero board type build that I'll throw together & test. If we cant sort the problem I'll mail the boards with fly leads attached to you. Cheers
Click to expand...
Thank you Ivan but....

I just got it to work!!! I am still having some modulation at the low end of the volume pot, but, it works!!
 
RVA said:
Thank you Ivan but....

I just got it to work!!! I am still having some modulation at the low end of the volume pot, but, it works!!
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Damn, that is good to hear & I can imagine it was a good feeling for you, well done. Hopefully the modulation effect at the low end of the volume control can be sorted. I've ordered components for two boards, so someone could possibly get a free one (populated board). It would be missing the MA856 diodes as they didn't have any, but I'll test using ordinary 1N914/1N4148 small signal diodes.
Ok RVA, when testing the effect, is it inside the enclosure? If not, it may encounter crosstalk & interferences that can cause noise etc, though "ham radio" type noise may be indicative of further electronic issue. Other places to look could be the two 1uf caps (one film type & one electrolytic), or the 10nf cap above them (adjacent to the two 100uf electrolytics). Also, above the red DIP switches on the layout we see another 10nf cap & 6.8k resistor. All these components tie into the volume control, so checking for cold solder joins etc could be worthwhile. Very glad you've got it up & running, hope you can get this last gremlin sorted. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
Damn, that is good to hear & I can imagine it was a good feeling for you, well done. Hopefully the modulation effect at the low end of the volume control can be sorted. I've ordered components for two boards, so someone could possibly get a free one (populated board). It would be missing the MA856 diodes as they didn't have any, but I'll test using ordinary 1N914/1N4148 small signal diodes.
Ok RVA, when testing the effect, is it inside the enclosure? If not, it may encounter crosstalk & interferences that can cause noise etc, though "ham radio" type noise may be indicative of further electronic issue. Other places to look could be the two 1uf caps (one film type & one electrolytic), or the 10nf cap above them (adjacent to the two 100uf electrolytics). Also, above the red DIP switches on the layout we see another 10nf cap & 6.8k resistor. All these components tie into the volume control, so checking for cold solder joins etc could be worthwhile. Very glad you've got it up & running, hope you can get this last gremlin sorted. Cheers
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Thank you Ivan. That is very helpful info. I will go back to those components. There is one more problem on that board and I will find it.

You know, I was bound to make at least a few mistakes my first time. However, chasing down these mistakes was a better learning experience than the initial build process. I now know how to read that schematic at a glance. Also, I appreciate the value of the different types if schematics, especially the upside down one, since a big source of my confusion was orientation while flipping the board over.

Two concerns I have in the back of my head is that I used an improper resistor value or that I fried a component while soldering, because I will never be able to see that. I do not think I did, but can one of these issues cause modulation?
 
Tackling a point to point type for your first build, I think you have done exceptionally well, point to point being the most difficult way to build. And yes, the layouts can be confusing, especially the underside diagram as its the reverse of the topside. You have also done very well chasing down problems to get it up & running. Very commendable indeed. You should feel a great sense of accomplishment.
Resistors, & also, though to a lesser extent, capacitors can handle a fair amount of heat & are obviously ok. If damaged they wouldn't be passing signal. Reading resistance values in situ with a meter will most times not be possible due to the rest of the circuitry throwing readings off, however, their value can be determined by their color coding. I'll do a quick search for a suitable color code chart & post it for you. Cheers
 
RVA said:
You know, I was bound to make at least a few mistakes my first time. However, chasing down these mistakes was a better learning experience than the initial build process.
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Good attitude :yesway:

ivan H said:
Ok RVA, when testing the effect, is it inside the enclosure? If not, it may encounter crosstalk & interferences that can cause noise etc, though "ham radio" type noise may be indicative of further electronic issue.
Click to expand...
This is kind of similar when working on an amp with the chassis removed from the enclosure.
 
jovi.gif
 
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