What's on Your Workbench?

Took advantage of a three day weekend, and after finishing all the yard work I didn't do because it's rained every day for a couple of months (or, so it seems), I played with some projects. I bought an amp kit from a guy at the Amp Garage who was retiring. I just wanted a couple of transformers, but he hooked me up with the whole kit at 2017 prices, no covid markup. Started finishing the chassis, and drilled some holes. Need to get my hands on a couple of step drills. It would be fun to putz around with this, and maybe get some work done on it soon.

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Very cool
 
Took advantage of a three day weekend, and after finishing all the yard work I didn't do because it's rained every day for a couple of months (or, so it seems), I played with some projects. I bought an amp kit from a guy at the Amp Garage who was retiring. I just wanted a couple of transformers, but he hooked me up with the whole kit at 2017 prices, no covid markup. Started finishing the chassis, and drilled some holes. Need to get my hands on a couple of step drills. It would be fun to putz around with this, and maybe get some work done on it soon.

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My guess

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I used Gold Lions to break my JTM45 build in, and made sure it worked well.


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Then, I switched over to the real thing. Ivan hooked my up with a very reputable seller here in the states, and these do not disappoint you. They blow away the modern copies.


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I'd be afraid of used tubes, honestly. I did all my performances without a backup of any kind, but i get that people like vintage tubes.
 
I'd be afraid of used tubes, honestly. I did all my performances without a backup of any kind, but i get that people like vintage tubes.
With the amount this amp gets used, I'm not worried. Especially since the original GEC tubes are far more robust, and will probably outlast me. I try not to use modern power or rectifier tubes. Especially rectifier tubes. My modern amps get modern power tubes, but not the vintage stuff.
 
Quick and dirty and almost finished (rolls, internal damping and covers for on or two of the ports are missing) - a doubled TL806 with common ports. Equipped with 2 Eminence Delta 12 and 2 phase plugs added to reduce the angular dependence of the treble signals. The diagonal stiffeners suppress the vibrational modes of the walls quite well.

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Probably not the best use of my time today, but the weather was crudy and I've been in a bit of a funk. It was fun to drill some holes, then find I was cutting it tight for clearance, add a few more holes, then do some soldering.


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First partscaster build: Tele
Been through a few budget level Teles, haven't found the "right" one.
Squiers have been 9+lbs, with very slim neck profiles; just doesn't work for me.

Body from ebay seller nomoonlaser. I was shopping from several sources, got out bid on a few at nomoonlaser, and finally scored this one for under $100 with shipping and tax. 4lbs = in the "zone".

WD music neck. Mostly Fender hardware, Alpha 250K pots, Bootstrap Extra Crispy pickup set scavenged of my Indio Tele.

The body routes came cut and string through holes drilled; checking pocket / neck alignment and scale length to verify / locate bridge.
For the intonation range, the saddles will be pretty far back but it should work.

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Got it playable late yesterday, played it a bit. First impressions are very good.
Still dialing in the set up.

Balances well with any rough strap; little bit of neck dive without.
The Well-Hung strap pictured has found it's new home.

I'm gonna guess 7 - 7.5lbs.
The tuners are Fender 2-pin staggered type; so far don't I don't think it needs string tree(s).

The Wilkinson compensated saddles tend to over compensate, mostly on the D/G saddle.
The bone nut I had on hand is a tiny bit short in overall length and still needs the slots worked just a little lower.
I have blanks, but may just leave this one if I don't screw it up/ cut a slot too low.

The neck took very few strokes with the leveling beam. The ends and bevels were smooth and needed no file work. We will see if they need some touch up come winter.

The Alpha 250k pots I have on hand are long shaft and the holes in the Fender control plate are a little big / for CTS size pots. Adding a washer and nut under the plate to shim them down and once tightened, it is all good. Switch is 3-way Oak Grigsby. Mostly Fender hardware. Allparts jack plate and Switchcraft #11 jack.

This may just be the "right one".

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First partscaster build: Tele
Been through a few budget level Teles, haven't found the "right" one.
Squiers have been 9+lbs, with very slim neck profiles; just doesn't work for me.

Body from ebay seller nomoonlaser. I was shopping from several sources, got out bid on a few at nomoonlaser, and finally scored this one for under $100 with shipping and tax. 4lbs = in the "zone".

WD music neck. Mostly Fender hardware, Alpha 250K pots, Bootstrap Extra Crispy pickup set scavenged of my Indio Tele.

The body routes came cut and string through holes drilled; checking pocket / neck alignment and scale length to verify / locate bridge.
For the intonation range, the saddles will be pretty far back but it should work.

View attachment 94613View attachment 94614View attachment 94615
Never had a true Tele. Squire or Fender. Years ago bought an already built SAGA kit Tele. Guy that put it together painted it with a brush. Ugly doesn’t begin to describe. But I got it cheap. Sanded body down to bare wood. Stained and used tung oil for the clear. Overall. It’s okay. Plays decent. Sounds decent. And I had a good time doing it.

A few years later I acquired an ash Tele body. Slowly bought the bits and pieces to build a Frankentele. Warmoth neck. SD P90 pups. Locking tuners. Good electronics. Etc. Still a work in progress. But it’s getting close. Body is stained a solid emerald green and will clear with true oil.
 
Got it playable late yesterday, played it a bit. First impressions are very good.
Still dialing in the set up.

Balances well with any rough strap; little bit of neck dive without.
The Well-Hung strap pictured has found it's new home.

I'm gonna guess 7 - 7.5lbs.
The tuners are Fender 2-pin staggered type; so far don't I don't think it needs string tree(s).

The Wilkinson compensated saddles tend to over compensate, mostly on the D/G saddle.
The bone nut I had on hand is a tiny bit short in overall length and still needs the slots worked just a little lower.
I have blanks, but may just leave this one if I don't screw it up/ cut a slot too low.

The neck took very few strokes with the leveling beam. The ends and bevels were smooth and needed no file work. We will see if they need some touch up come winter.

The Alpha 250k pots I have on hand are long shaft and the holes in the Fender control plate are a little big / for CTS size pots. Adding a washer and nut under the plate to shim them down and once tightened, it is all good. Switch is 3-way Oak Grigsby. Mostly Fender hardware. Allparts jack plate and Switchcraft #11 jack.

This may just be the "right one".

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Nice work!
 
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