So Anyway...

That's a sport I really need to get back into. I kinda stopped being a pretty hard-core fisherman after I had kids. It is time to get back at it and bring them with me this time....but that's also going to require that I change the way I used to do it. Bigger boat, etc...
 
Again.
My last pack on hand of D'addario EXL110 10-46.
And maybe ever.

Put on my Ibanez AS73 in Feb. and not played much, until the second time I picked it up (last night) after the Gretch Filtertron went in the bridge.

I still say it was a bad batch and I like these strings. I sent a contact message to D'addario relating my experience.
I may or may not buy them again, depending on the response I get.

20220502_185512-2.jpg
 
Last edited:
syscokid said:
Can you please explain, for lil O'me?
Click to expand...
2 part urethane finishes are quite common for the pro sprayers with guns. It involves 1 park urethane and 1 part hardening agent (example). The proper mix is important, and to get it as you desire usually takes a fair amount if trial and error. It is harder to clean equipment after use than with one part poly, but has major advantages. It is sandable in 24-72 hours (depending on conditions and how much is sprayed) and it results in a harder, more scratch resistant surface. It is also less prone to runs and flattens out nicely .

This rattle can makes 2K spray available to those of us without spray guns and booths. It has a diaphragm with the hardener inside the can at the base, which is released by taking the red plunger off the cap and pushing it in to the insert on the bottom, thus allowing the perfect mix of urethane and hardener just when you need it.

CONS:
- It has catalyzed urethanes. This is highly toxic and can cause cancer. It can be absorbed through the skin. Long sleeves, rubber gloves and a proper respirator are mandatory. I also use a shower cap and goggles.
- it is more expensive ($20 per can).
- It is no good 24 hours after mixing, so if you don't use the whole can, or you want to open another can for just a few more sprays, it is wasteful, especially given the expense.

For me, it is worth the cons. The results, time savings and scratch resistance are a huge benefit. Also, less risk of burn through when finish sanding
 
Last edited:
syscokid said:
Pretty cool info, thanks!


How much per guitar?
Click to expand...
Well, the first 3 guitars, I did not use a sealer before spraying and I over-applied to try to get a glass finish without sanding. You see, when you lay it on thick, it comes out better than you could ever buff to without pro equipment, but it is NEVER perfect throughout and you get pock marks as the excessive vapors make their way up through the thick spray and crater. You also have to deal with runs (which can be managed). The end result...you have to sand anyway even though it is 92% like glass, so it was a waste. This resulted in my using 2 1/2-3 cans, making quite the mess and spending lots of time correcting errors. Needless to say, this approach was not a success.

This time, I used a sealer so I was starting with a true surface without any uneven absorption, sprayed in thin layers like you are supposed to do (despite the obvious orange peel that was resulting) and sanded to a finish with only 1 can.

I have other tips applicable to any spray if you plan on doing a job. I learned the hard way. Avoid my MANY mistakes
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top