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Clockworkmike said:
Totally agree. I will tune the guitar up and wiggle and snap the strings individually, which instantly detunes them. Retune, snap again until basically it quits dropping drastically. At that point, it largely holds its tune. That and i have stringed it over one wrap, under on the rest of wraps to kinda lock the string. Works ok but will snap from tension if you are bending really hard, so thats something i normally only do on something id play rhythm only on.
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I only bend my strings in the direction they are bent while playing...I never pull them up away from the board...
 
Amp Mad Scientist said:
The biggest issue is
stretch - retune
stretch - retune
until the string stops slipping.
If people did this they wouldn't have all the string slip issues.
It's a surprising number of players who don't realize this.
You must do this regardless of locking tuners, locking nut.....
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Yup, that's why I mentioned that I am sure most of our Pro players... know how to tune/ install strings. But the reminder is good for anyone who is new or rusty.
 
67plexi said:
Since I live in a rain forest most guitars will not stay in tune. Out of all my guitars two will stay in tune.

The old blister Fender Esquire and the new Hydra 7 string


View attachment 26722View attachment 26724
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Hey 67, since we are on this Main AXE thread, it reminded me of one that gets little mention by any of us except you here.

Still Have the Parker Fly?
 
Clockworkmike said:
Just an old school trick that works good if you have an issue with strings binding at your nut and you dont want to replace it as long as its still good: lube the string grooves with a graphite pencil. Works like a charm
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That's what I do each and every string change. I got a super-fine mechanical pencil that fits into all the nut slots. I wrap and "lock" the minimum amount of string possible on the post, don't ever bother stretching strings and I don't ever have any tuning or stability issues.
 
BFT Gibson said:
People ask me whats your fav jcm 800..i go umm,ya mod em all anyways...so my answer is always SLX..here is my baby . donated it to my friends studio. It gets on a bunch of recordings,,View attachment 51033
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Clockworkmike said:
Yeah the SLX is a part of the JCM900 family but its a bit of a strange bird. The 800 family of heads are separated by basically two amps: the 2203/2204 and then the 2205/2210.

The 2203/2203 were carry overs of the first Master Volume series JMPs and were single channel, valve amps with few electronic components. The 2205/2210 were split channels that contained a bit more electronic components like diode clipping namely and added reverb.

The 900s were first broken into two amps ( MkIII Hi Gain master volume and Dual Reverb) , which the dual reverb had probably the most solidstate technology in a valve amp from Marshall at that time and is pretty much its own circuit design. The MK3 was sort of a continuation of the 2205/2210 in its circuit but went to a single channel and removed reverb.

The SLX replaced the 900 MKIII a few years after the series began, but removed a good bit of the electronic components, namely the diode clipping and added an extra preamp tube for gain. Its circuit is somewhat closer to the 2203/2204 but certainly updated and what i guess many consider, as a factory modded version of the famous 2203/2204
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Right so technically the SLX really wouldn't be a JCM800 not to nitpick. My Jubilee is 1987 and uses diode clipping but is not part of the 900 family.
 
Jethro Rocker said:
Right so technically the SLX really wouldn't be a JCM800 not to nitpick. My Jubilee is 1987 and uses diode clipping but is not part of the 900 family.
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I prefer the SLX. Thats just me,,i like the sensitively knob vs a TS. Just a great answer to everybody ripping there 800's apart. Right from the source itself,

We get to a/b all these Marshall's on a regular basis. my friend has 35+ heads. There is so much myth out there its crazy,

Marshall, turn it up in the zone where they were designed to be used(kick drum level ironically)..every single one of em i ever played..was fantastic.
 
BFT Gibson said:
I prefer the SLX. Thats just me,,i like the sensitively knob vs a TS. Just a great answer to everybody ripping there 800's apart. Right from the source itself,

We get to a/b all these Marshall's on a regular basis. my friend has 35+ heads. There is so much myth out there its crazy,

Marshall, turn it up in the zone where they were designed to be used(kick drum level ironically)..every single one of em i ever played..was fantastic.
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Crap. Another amp for me to look at!
 
Clockworkmike said:
Just an old school trick that works good if you have an issue with strings binding at your nut and you dont want to replace it as long as its still good: lube the string grooves with a graphite pencil. Works like a charm
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I pay very close attention to the nut sot dimensions I got from Gibson Historic's Archives. Thanks to Simon Higgs (Gibson Artist Relations) for the hook up. These are the specs given for the factory setup of all Les Paul, SG, Firebird/Exp and Semi Hollow Models:


E: 0.058"

A: 0.048"

D: 0.038"

g: 0.028"

b: 0.019"

e: 0.014"

Take note that, according to Gibson Historic, the setup spec for the EDS-1275 is unique:

String Dimensions
E: .11684 cm / .046W
A: .09144 cm / .036W
D: .06604 cm / .026W
G: .04318 cm / .017P
B: .03302 cm / .013P
e: .0254 cm / .010P

Dimensions of String Slots
E: 0.1778 cm / 0.070"
A: 0.13716 cm / 0.054"
D: 0.1016 cm / 0.040"
G: 0.0635 cm / 0.025"
B: 0.0508 cm / 0.020"
e: 0.0381 cm / 0.015"

I also pay attention to this spec:

6th string clearance between 1st fret and OPEN string: .020”
1st string clearance between 1st fret and OPEN string: .014”
 
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Robert Herndon said:
I pay very close attention to the nut sot dimensions I got from Gibson Historic's Archives. Thanks to Simon Higgs (Gibson Artist Relations) for the hook up. These are the specs given for the factory setup of all Les Paul, SG, Firebird/Exp and Semi Hollow Models:


E: 0.058"

A: 0.048"

D: 0.038"

g: 0.028"

b: 0.019"

e: 0.014"

Take note that, according to Gibson Historic, the setup spec for the EDS-1275 is unique:

String Dimensions
E: .11684 cm / .046W
A: .09144 cm / .036W
D: .06604 cm / .026W
G: .04318 cm / .017P
B: .03302 cm / .013P
e: .0254 cm / .010P

Dimensions of String Slots
E: 0.1778 cm / 0.070"
A: 0.13716 cm / 0.054"
D: 0.1016 cm / 0.040"
G: 0.0635 cm / 0.025"
B: 0.0508 cm / 0.020"
e: 0.0381 cm / 0.015"
Click to expand...
Everything is slightly bigger then on the double neck?
 
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