Should I build it?

Speaking of Strat projects, My T rod came in from Stewmac. Now to get the broken bit of the old rod out of the anchor and cut my new rod and thread it to fit. The only thing I am seeing is in the anchor it appears the rod is not a perfect cylindrical shape with threads on it. It was built as a weird shape between the threaded end in the anchor and unthreaded part within the anchor. It appears to be threaded for the first 1/4 inch and then a smooth square piece inside the anchor and then round again where the rod actually exits the anchor and proceeds through the neck. I am thinking Fender did this so the square cornered part inside would not permit the rod to back out of the anchor like doing the job of Loc-tite etc.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Robert, if I am not mistaken, when I did my own wiring for my Faded SG and installed all new Push back wiring, Bourns Pots and caps, I did the 50's wiring as well. My memory of which caps I used is vague, but I might have done .033 and .022 whereas you did the .015 combo.

Now I will have to take the back off my guitar. I can see in my pics I have at least 1 .022, Not sure if my other was a .015 or a .033

OK, I was able to pull up my order to Gary Standerfer @ Tone Man Guitar and here is it.
Bourns Short Shaft 500K Guitar Pots Audio Taper Potentiometer (qty 4) (Qty 2)

Orange Drop .022uf | .015uf 600V 715P Sprague Tone Capacitors (Qty 2)

.022uf | .015uf K40Y-9 Vintage Russian PIO Guitar Tone Caps (Qty 2)

So, I am seeing it was in fact the .022 and .015 in my SG
Click to expand...


That's a great combination....
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Speaking of Strat projects, My T rod came in from Stewmac. Now to get the broken bit of the old rod out of the anchor and cut my new rod and thread it to fit. The only thing I am seeing is in the anchor it appears the rod is not a perfect cylindrical shape with threads on it. It was built as a weird shape between the threaded end in the anchor and unthreaded part within the anchor. It appears to be threaded for the first 1/4 inch and then a smooth square piece inside the anchor and then round again where the rod actually exits the anchor and proceeds through the neck. I am thinking Fender did this so the square cornered part inside would not permit the rod to back out of the anchor like doing the job of Loc-tite etc.
Click to expand...

Couldn’t you TIG weld the rod to the anchor?
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Speaking of Strat projects, My T rod came in from Stewmac. Now to get the broken bit of the old rod out of the anchor and cut my new rod and thread it to fit. The only thing I am seeing is in the anchor it appears the rod is not a perfect cylindrical shape with threads on it. It was built as a weird shape between the threaded end in the anchor and unthreaded part within the anchor. It appears to be threaded for the first 1/4 inch and then a smooth square piece inside the anchor and then round again where the rod actually exits the anchor and proceeds through the neck. I am thinking Fender did this so the square cornered part inside would not permit the rod to back out of the anchor like doing the job of Loc-tite etc.
Click to expand...

Hmmmmmmm.....
 
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