Oh no..Something New

ibmorjamn said:
That’s a good idea, I have 1 , 24” metal yard stick and I’ll find something else.
The video I watched, the guy just put tape on the body to protect it and also mark the lines, used a straight edge along the side of the neck on both sides and then a caliper to find center.
Click to expand...
I use lots of painter's tape.
The lines down from the side of the neck are a great reference, but if the trem assembly is asymmetrical, the centerline between the 3rd & 4th saddle should be dead center on the neck.
ibmorjamn said:
There are some possible issue’s, first the truss rod adjust is at the base of the neck. No access to the adjustment Allen screw.
Secondly , the studs have fairly large bushing that appear to be very close the pickup route.
Click to expand...
Lay it all out on some tape and see where you're at.
 
fitz said:
I use lots of painter's tape.
The lines down from the side of the neck are a great reference, but if the trem assembly is asymmetrical, the centerline between the 34th saddle should be dead center on the neck.

Lay it all out on some tape and see where you're at.
Click to expand...
That looks about right.
fitz said:
I use lots of painter's tape.
The lines down from the side of the neck are a great reference, but if the trem assembly is asymmetrical, the centerline between the 3rd & 4th saddle should be dead center on the neck.

Lay it all out on some tape and see where you're at.
Click to expand...
Yes I believe it is asymmetrical, the Gotoh is a direct replacement for the fender Strat Trem.
 
On the instructables page a guy did a step by step for a locking Trem. Conversion. This pic showing his concern for the 2 point placement being to close to the pickup route.
That is also my concern, the guy cut a piece of hardwood to place in the humbucker rout to reinforce the thin wall to later route for the pickup.
IMG_0625.jpeg
 
ibmorjamn said:
This pic showing his concern for the 2 point placement being to close to the pickup route.
That is also my concern, the guy cut a piece of hardwood to place in the humbucker rout to reinforce the thin wall to later route for the pickup.
Click to expand...
Looks like lots of room on yours.
Do the layout of a nominal 25.5" bridge line on some painter's tape.
Locate the post locations and find out what you have to work with.
Speculation is accomplishing nothing.

1734876099063.png

This may be a bigger problem if you need to break out some power tools to enlarge the slot.

1734876648101.png
 
Further thoughts.

There is a range of adjustment in the bridge saddles for intonation.
The 25.5 line I drew is a minimum for the high E string.
It will be slightly longer in a minuscule amount to offset fretting and stretching the string slightly sharp.
The low E will be around 1/4" longer - depending on string gauge.

The trem bloc needs to have room to move in the slot, with the saddles also being within the intonation adjustment range.
Layout a range of pin spacing within the allowable placement of the trem block through the slot and determine if there is sufficient room for the pin bushing holes.

Are you planning to float the bridge on spring tension for trem pulls, or deck it for dive only?
 
Hmmmm….Might those replacement saddle screws and neck shim be starting to sound pretty good?
Don’t get me wrong please…That trem is dead sexy. So are the other parts…all of them.

Regarding the heel trussrod adjustment: The neck on my Strat has a heel adjustment point. I have to pull the neck to make adjustments (twice in 20 years…the body on my Strat doesn’t have the heel adjustment rout). I found it helpful to have locking tuners when I have had to adjust..just remove string tension, unbolt the neck, tweak the adjustment, reassemble, tune to pitch, check relief, rinse, and repeat as necessary.
I have been fairly lucky at this, and have only had to rinse and repeat once. I don’t know why that neck seems so stable, but I sure am thankful for it.
 
Thatbastarddon said:
Hmmmm….Might those replacement saddle screws and neck shim be starting to sound pretty good?
Click to expand...
More further thoughts...

Have you done a bridge height mock-up?
My previous posts have been regarding scale length, but the neck shim idea brings to mind bridge height.
Fit the neck and get a level line across the frets to the bridge.
Circling back to my question regarding floating or decking, what is the height adjustment range, and would a neck shim help or not?
 
fitz said:
Further thoughts.

There is a range of adjustment in the bridge saddles for intonation.
The 25.5 line I drew is a minimum for the high E string.
It will be slightly longer in a minuscule amount to offset fretting and stretching the string slightly sharp.
The low E will be around 1/4" longer - depending on string gauge.

The trem bloc needs to have room to move in the slot, with the saddles also being within the intonation adjustment range.
Layout a range of pin spacing within the allowable placement of the trem block through the slot and determine if there is sufficient room for the pin bushing holes.

Are you planning to float the bridge on spring tension for trem pulls, or deck it for dive only?
Click to expand...
I initially plan to deck it for tuning and unison bend stability like the Harley Benton is set up , so dive only.
 
Thatbastarddon said:
Hmmmm….Might those replacement saddle screws and neck shim be starting to sound pretty good?
Don’t get me wrong please…That trem is dead sexy. So are the other parts…all of them.

Regarding the heel trussrod adjustment: The neck on my Strat has a heel adjustment point. I have to pull the neck to make adjustments (twice in 20 years…the body on my Strat doesn’t have the heel adjustment rout). I found it helpful to have locking tuners when I have had to adjust..just remove string tension, unbolt the neck, tweak the adjustment, reassemble, tune to pitch, check relief, rinse, and repeat as necessary.
I have been fairly lucky at this, and have only had to rinse and repeat once. I don’t know why that neck seems so stable, but I sure am thankful for it.
Click to expand...
Actually, I could have bought a stock bridge (not in my nature to be stock) and yes screws shorter but besides going to the hardware store the grinder makes them shorter faster. lol
This being a scratch build I decided a 2 point is a good option for less resistance on the pivot. Logical, right? Or not. lol
 
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