NGD content: The Waiting ----- according to Gball is the hardest part

syscokid said:
I like this too. Paper is like wood, right?
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Yeah, I had never seen this paper method before. My immediate thought was to use slivers of wood.

The paper idea is cool in that it provides 100% coverage surrounding the bushing at a very consistent thickness, helping the bushing remain on center. It should also be very durable once the glue sets.
 
smitty_p said:
Is it just the bridge bushings? Is the stop tail okay?
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Yup, stop tail is ok.

smitty_p said:
Here’s an idea from Phillip McKnight:


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Thanks Smitty, I did see that Mcknight vid too.
I am leery Mcknight's method of glue around Bushings and paper then into the holes where the bushing, paper and glue are hammered flush. My concern is as the part is pressed in, glue will ooze around the bushing and onto the guitar face. I really don't want any overflow to get on the finished face of the guitar.

I'm picturing a method. Thanks Goo, Sysco and Smitty. I will post my results and hopefully will have the bridge saddles sorted out easily enough too.
Also, for those of you who have repaired loose strap button holes as well. Any tried and true methods for that too. Thanks
 
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chilipeppermaniac said:
Yup, stop tail is ok.



Thanks Smitty, I did see that Mcknight vid too.
I am leery Mcknight's method of glue around Bushings and paper then into the holes where the bushing, paper and glue are hammered flush. My concern is as the part is pressed in, glue will ooze around the bushing and onto the guitar face. I really don't want any overflow to get on the finished face of the guitar.

I'm picturing a method. Thanks Goo, Sysco and Smitty. I will post my results and hopefully will have the bridge saddles sorted out easily enough too.
Also, for those of you who have repaired loose strap button holes as well. Any tried and true methods for that too. Thanks
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Honesty, if you have any wood glue squeeze out onto the face of the guitar, it cleans up very nicely with a damp cloth. A damp cloth (not soaking wet!), followed by a dry cloth won’t damage the guitar finish. I’ve done repairs on my ‘74 SG without issue from cleanup.
 
gball said:
Not sure what it is, but every time I have had a bone nut there is some kind of weird overtone. Obviously this is only on open strings, but I personally don't like them.

Nylon nuts are what Les Pauls originally had, and they use them on the historics...and they even show up from time to time on USA models.
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Thank you for the heads up, G.
67 plexi posted where to get nylon nut blanks. Maybe I will give it a go and see if I can make a nut for it. I can always get a Tusq nut to use easily enough too, or dress up the one that is in it to make it a good unit.
 
I would suggest the Well-Hung Pro Pins unless you are restoring to original.
Made with bigger screws.

I have just whittled off good size wood slivers, and stuffed the hole with them.
Takes up some space when the screw is run in.

The loose bridge bushing holes sound challenging.
Looking at the comparison to your Epi, the Gibson bridge looks a lot higher off the deck.
Hard to really tell from the pics.
I wonder if this is unusually high in general and contributed to the bushing holes getting worn.

How do the neck back angles and the fretwork / level compare?
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Thank you for the heads up, G.
67 plexi posted where to get nylon nut blanks. Maybe I will give it a go and see if I can make a nut for it. I can always get a Tusq nut to use easily enough too, or dress up the one that is in it to make it a good unit.
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I've heard a few people say that the nylon is really hard to work with. No personal experience though - when I had nylon installed it was done professionally, and when I replaced nuts on my own I have used Tusq (which I have liked a lot)

My '79 still has the original nut but it is nearing the end of its life and I plan to put nylon on when I have it changed. I already found a semi-local shop that knows what they are doing to get the work done when the time is right.
 
gball said:
I've heard a few people say that the nylon is really hard to work with. No personal experience though - when I had nylon installed it was done professionally, and when I replaced nuts on my own I have used Tusq (which I have liked a lot)

My '79 still has the original nut but it is nearing the end of its life and I plan to put nylon on when I have it changed. I already found a semi-local shop that knows what they are doing to get the work done when the time is right.
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I made a nut for my ‘74 SG from Delrin, which is a type of nylon. It is harder than the plastic many nuts are made from, and very slippery. It can be more challenging to work with because of that, but I’ve been happy with it.
 
Cadorman said:
Congrats on the new axe Chili! I feel for you on finally getting a replacement for a long lost guitar. I'm still wanting to find a nice black '88 Standard, but it's pretty tough to find one lefty.
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Cador, all during my search for my '79 I found others in lefty versions. As Gball can attest, every so often I would send him a few links to ones of my interest, but also ones I know he likes. So just pass along your wish list and maybe I will find your gem one day too.
 
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ALSO if its a BOLT neck (which we all KNOW ARE CRAP ANYWAY) -- the tone cane be improved based on the length and chemical formulation of the screws in the set neck ......... no really ..... I read it on the interwebs
I think NICKLE screws where better for metal and brass had a softer rounder blues tone......
 
eSGEe said:
ALSO if its a BOLT neck (which we all KNOW ARE CRAP ANYWAY) -- the tone cane be improved based on the length and chemical formulation of the screws in the set neck ......... no really ..... I read it on the interwebs
I think NICKLE screws where better for metal and brass had a softer rounder blues tone......
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Why can't you just unbolt the neck, add some Elmer's, screw it back together and call it a day? Oh, it still wouldn't sound like a Gibson...
 
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