NGD - 2022 SG Tribute

I use Deoxit F5 Faderlube.
3 of 4 pots turn smoothly to about 3, then drag / harder to turn enough to be a problem through about 7. Neck volume is the worst.
Sam Ash said Gibson would not send them the PCB board; it had to be shipped to Gibson.

I did 2 rounds of working in the Faderlube. 2 of the 3 are still a little sticky but I could live with it. The neck vol. is still no bueno.

So, I start tearing it down. I loosed the 4 pot nuts ( they were unusually tight), turned the pots, and what do you know, they are ok. The neck vol I can still feel a little bit, but it is ok for now. Maybe it wont last. I have the parts.
I snugged the nuts lightly after putting shielding tape under the switch to ground the back cover, and moved forward with the nut and shielding work.

The store tech could have at least looked this over, but obviously they didn't.
 
jtcnj said:
I have been exchanging messages with Sam Ash via the Reverb messaging.
I asked for a partial refund since the guitar was not as listed: I did not get what I paid for.
I also offered to retrieve my guitar, and use that refund towards getting the repair done locally on my own.
EDIT: Which ends up being me, but that is none of their business.

They responded to offer a credit of $35, since the item was already significantly discounted? Absurd.
It was listed as used, (not new) mint condition and checked by their expert techs to ensure perfect working condition.
It is not.

It was priced a little higher than the other used Tributes in similar condition (or used excellent, etc.) on Reverb and elsewhere during my research.
Part of my decision to choose this one was based on buying from an established firm, rather than an individual seller - in a shipping situation.
I would rather buy locally where I can look things over in person.

They did remind me I could return it, but other than the pots, I am happy with it.

I told them I was not happy with this, and counter offered, but ended up with the $35 ($37.xx with sales tax) credit. At least it covers the cost of the pots.
I went and picked it up.

I cannot recommend Sam Ash Music; my experience is that they are not a reputable dealer.

Mistakes do happen, but they did not take proper ownership of the mistake and offer a fair / reasonable solution.
In 2 instances, they did not even answer my Reverb messages until I messaged again that more than 48 hours had elapsed since my last message, per the Reverb policy.

They answered quickly after that both times.

Others may have had good transactions, but these things only come to light when something goes wrong.

The 3 people I dealt with on the phone and in person locally at the Springfield NJ store were very friendly, helpful and professional.

So, the matter is closed.
I am not angry and will move on. I felt the need to share my experience here.
Click to expand...
I’ve been to the Springfield flagship store. Much better than the Guitar Center across the street.
I brought my SG to GC where I bought it and they said it would take a few days to look at.
I went to Sam Ash and they took care of it right away and didn’t charge me. They are a Gibson dealer and my SG was still under warranty.

But while I was there. I shopped around, and the staff were helpful. They didn’t just look at you and keep walking.
 
@jtcnj what town are you from?
If you live near enough. The Guitar Center in Paramus has a great guitar tech if you ever need one. It would be another 40 minute ride from Springfield depending on traffic.
 
jtcnj said:
I use Deoxit F5 Faderlube.
Click to expand...
I use both the Faderlube, and the Gold. I find the Faderlube a bit goopy (forgive me for being too technical…still working the first cup of coffee) for stubborn pots. Works great on my mixing boards though. The Faderlube leaves the faders feeling smoother on full sweeps….smooths out the blank feeling spaces vs the gummy feeling spaces, making them feel like new again.
I just used the Gold to free up some sludgy pots on an old Crate Vintage Club 20 combo amp, and it worked out great. A quick spray, a half dozen full sweeps, and every knob was turning freely again….oh…and quietly.
 
Last edited:
Thatbastarddon said:
I use both the Faderlube, and the Gold. I find the Faderlube a bit goopy (forgive me for being too technical…still working the first cup of coffee) for pots. Works great on my mixing boards though. The Faderlube leaves the faders feeling smoother on full sweeps….smooths out the blank feeling spaces vs the gummy feeling spaces, making them feel like new again.
I just used the Gold to free up some sludgy pots on an old Crate Vintage Club 20 combo amp, and it worked out great. A quick spray, a half dozen full sweeps, and every knob was turning freely again….oh…and quietly.
Click to expand...
Now that I’ve finished my first coffee…to be clear…although the Faderlube is the proper tool to use for maintaining, and cleaning up pots, I've had better results on gummed up, sticky, or frozen pots….by first cleaning them out with the Gold or CRC cleaners. Once they are free and clear, proper maintenance and lubrication would involve the Faderlube.
 
….and if anyone is worried or interested in the proper advertised use of the different DeOxit stuff, it is another rabbit hole…
This video was interesting to me. If you want to see the manufacturer’s reply to treating pots, skip to 21:50-ish.


I’m going down to work on that bass, and stuff…
 
…aaaand about 45 minutes to disassemble(re-assemble, and test) the offending, knobless, controls…spray them down with some DeOxit Gold, wrestle them until they freed up, and work them in until they smoothed out…and this bass has its eq control back after years of neglect. While I was in there, I also hit the volume and ”blend” pots so that they feel super smooth now too. I’ve gotta dig up some knobs for this poor wretch….

1676222393822.jpeg
 
Thatbastarddon said:
Now that I’ve finished my first coffee…to be clear…although the Faderlube is the proper tool to use for maintaining, and cleaning up pots, I've had better results on gummed up, sticky, or frozen pots….by first cleaning them out with the Gold or CRC cleaners. Once they are free and clear, proper maintenance and lubrication would involve the Faderlube.
Click to expand...

How bout this stuff?
710+0SaOCOL._SL1500_.jpg
 
C-Grin said:
How bout this stuff?
710+0SaOCOL._SL1500_.jpg
Click to expand...
That is the Faderlube that has been mentioned. I have, and use, a big can of it in the studio. Great stuff! However…in my experience…I’ve had better luck unfreezing, unsticking, ungooping stubborn pots with either DeOxit D5 or DeOxit Gold(I used Gold on the three completely seized pots on the above bass)….because the Faderlube seems to leave a more viscous residue behind. That residue continues to lubricate and protect, but the D5 and Gold seem to do a better job clearing the debris, cleaning, and freeing up things that are “beyond” routine maintenance…although they are just “contact cleaners/lubricants”.
So, I use D5 or Gold for tough jobs. I use F5 for actual faders and pots that just require maintenance cleaning and lubrication.

edit: I have the DeOxit Gold out and about because I’ve been doing some amp projects that have involved cleaning up input jacks, wire connectors, tube sockets, etc. My D5 is MIA, but I have an old can of CRC kicking around as a stand-in until I replenish.
 
Last edited:
I have done similar with a CRC brand electronics cleaner, then the F5, similar to what Don said. As I understand it, pots / faders need a lubricant and using electronics cleaner alone without a lubricant will clean out the oxidation and crud, but will increase wear and eventually cause premature failure.

Finished up the shielding and nut work, fresh set of 10-46, and dialed in the set up to my liking.
Really digging it. As much as I said I was indifferent to the Honeymoon period, I am tickled.

I am objective when evaluating the guitar from a technician's standpoint, but I am giddy (gibby?) over finally getting the SG style guitar I have been lusting for oh these many years. Ain't nothin' like the real thing, baby I suppose.
 
jtcnj said:
As I understand it, pots / faders need a lubricant and using electronics cleaner alone without a lubricant will clean out the oxidation and crud, but will increase wear and eventually cause premature failure.
Click to expand...
This exactly. There’s nothing wrong with cleaning the pots up thoroughly first…then use a lubricating cleaner once working properly. I find the CRC a bit strong for the pot cleaning job most of the time, and the DeOxit D series does lubricate a bit iirc. But that’s why I will likely go back, and hit them with F5 next weekend. Especially since I got the “go ahead” from the owner to give it some exercise.

Anyway…I am stoked for you, @jtcnj , for getting this back…and making positive progress! :dood: :cheers:
 
Shielding work. I don't enjoy this, but it is worth the effort.
This guitar had the typical hum that quiets when you touch the strings.
The control cavity only has a strip of tape at the switch to ground the cover.
I think the PCB would ground out if the cavity was shielded.

I didnt see the piece that tore out at the neck tenon until now.

It is dead quiet now, the best results I have achieved so far.
I need to revisit some of the others.

@Inspector #20 shields the wire tunnels; I dont have the skill or patience for that.
In my LPs and Vs some switches and/or jacks are located away from the control cavity.
I will likely replace the wire with shielded wire I have on hand, and re-check conductivity / ground paths.

Doh!
After I soldered in the ground wire in both pickup cavities, as I have done before, I realized I only needed 1, and removed the neck cavity wire.

20230211_145538-2.jpg20230211_151909-2.jpg20230212_143347-2.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top