New Kit

gasket said:
That's what I got from Sysco's post then a search.
So the poly is only a clear (make it shine and look deep) finish?
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Yes, both are for a clear coat shine. Poly is essentially a spray "plastic". It cures hard, buffs well, and can be drop filled with crazy glue. Some people prefer nitocellulose because it allows the wood to continue to age without fully sealing it, but it cracks over time and reacts poorly with rubber. As another example, nitro is what they used to finish cars in the old days, which is why you had to keep it out if the sun, away from salt and wax regularly. Car manufacturers no longer use it, and neither do I. It is also bad for the environment, another reason it fell out of use. IMO, nitro is for those who believe in tone wood, since the wood aging (especially when played), is supposed to improve the resonance, which is very true for acoustics, but often debated for electrics.
 
RVA said:
Yes, both are for a clear coat shine. Poly is essentially a spray "plastic". It cures hard, buffs well, and can be drop filled with crazy glue. Some people prefer nitocellulose because it allows the wood to continue to age without fully sealing it, but it cracks over time and reacts poorly with rubber. As another example, nitro is what they used to finish cars in the old days, which is why you had to keep it out if the sun, away from salt and wax regularly. Car manufacturers no longer use it, and neither do I. It is also bad for the environment, another reason it fell out of use. IMO, nitro is for those who believe in tone wood, since the wood aging (especially when played), is supposed to improve the resonance, which is very true for acoustics, but often debated for electrics.
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I may have mentioned I've previously had a good result from enamel, numerous coats with wet sanding between each and finally polish to a great shine.
If I use a coloured paint that's compatible with poly and wet sand til smooth BUT NOT chase a shine, will the poly make the colour vibrant and deep?
 
gasket said:
I may have mentioned I've previously had a good result from enamel, numerous coats with wet sanding between each and finally polish to a great shine.
If I use a coloured paint that's compatible with poly and wet sand til smooth BUT NOT chase a shine, will the poly make the colour vibrant and deep?
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Yes, poly makes the colors pop. However, since you are familiar working in a particular medium and like the result, that may be best
 
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AFAIK... Modern nitrocellulose doesn't "check" as much as the old school stuff used to. But it's still highly flammable.

Even though I'm a firm believer in TONEWOOD, I do not subscribe to the debate that a nitrocellulose finish allows a guitar to resonate and "breathe" better than a polyurethane finish. Or even an oil finish. If the TONEWOODS have been seasoned properly, and assembled properly, then the type of finish debate becomes a moot point.
 
syscokid said:
AFAIK... Modern nitrocellulose doesn't "check" as much as the old school stuff used to. But it's still highly flammable.

Even though I'm a firm believer in TONEWOOD, I do not subscribe to the debate that a nitrocellulose finish allows a guitar to resonate and "breathe" better than a polyurethane finish. Or even an oil finish. If the TONEWOODS have been seasoned properly, and assembled properly, then the type of finish debate becomes a moot point.
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I am surprised that you are a tonewood believer
 
RVA said:
Yes, poly makes the colors pop. However, since you are familiar working in a particular medium and like the result, that may be best
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The shine obtained on enamel finish (photo in post #64) is acceptable but that "deep" look isn't there. Admittedly there isn't any clear over the paint only paint polished progressively with finer and finer polish. Ray some of your projects have that desired "glassy" depth, so me thinks it's time to find out what I can put down as colour and finish with poly. I assume the clear poly still requires wet and dry then fine auto polishes when hardened?
 
gasket said:
The shine obtained on enamel finish (photo in post #64) is acceptable but that "deep" look isn't there. Admittedly there isn't any clear over the paint only paint polished progressively with finer and finer polish. Ray some of your projects have that desired "glassy" depth, so me thinks it's time to find out what I can put down as colour and finish with poly. I assume the clear poly still requires wet and dry then fine auto polishes when hardened?
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Yep. If you use the stuff i posted, here is the run down:

- coats 5-10 minutes apart until it has a sufficient amount for 1 application. If you wait for longer than that, wait 24-36 hours and light sand before next application, with 1,000 grit. Wait approx 2 weeks before full buff to shine.
 
Cheers, I doubt I can buy the same brand as you use in this country. I'll ask about spray pack poly and suitable paint to go under.
I assume the number of coats of paint doesn't matter as long as it's smooth, the depth of glassy finish is in the poly?
 
gasket said:
Cheers, I doubt I can buy the same brand as you use in this country. I'll ask about spray pack poly and suitable paint to go under.
I assume the number of coats of paint doesn't matter as long as it's smooth, the depth of glassy finish is in the poly?
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Itis easier to get it to be glassy if you apply it a bit thicker, but you must balance that with the risk of dripping since it would be hung while spraying. You want to apply a fair amount so you do not burn through while buffing.
 
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Finally joined up some wire today. It's machined for mini pots but just got away with the full size upgraded DiMazios. Soldering isn't my thing but it works, did the plug in and tap a pickup with a screwdriver, tone and both volume respond well :-) I still have to insulate some wires, don't want things shorting out :-(
Next job is to make a bridge and string it up.
As said earlier, it's not a race.

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eSGEe said:
very tidy wiring and soldering-- I envy your abilities. Stop by the house this weekend I need a few things soldered up ;)
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Mr Grumpy said:
Yeah, nice looking job.
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You're both being kind. What skill I have in some areas isn't on show when it comes to small soldering work.
I am a give it a go and improve each time you try it kind of a bloke.
I have a friend, a retired technician who was going to do it for me but he's away for another week so to keep the job moving ...
 
As planned I wanted this kit to make acoustic and electric noise before any attempt to finish. It now breathes and I'm very pleased with the sound. I say sound rather than tone at this early stage. Nothing is really screwed up yet I haven't even cut the bridge grooves. I'm also glad I assembled before paint as I'm not so sure now, small possibility I may run with a natural timber look. I'm liking what I see, will live with it for a couple of days.

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Mr Grumpy said:
The natural finish on the body looks really nice.

Good work, Sir.
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Thank you.
Only been a couple of hours but the timber look it growing on me more and more.

eSGEe said:
NICE looking beastie!
I like the wood vs the metal--- very Guggenheim- ish and artsy without being fartsy---
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Yep we don't want any "fartsy" going on around here. To keep things straight I'll be consulting my friend Andy ;-)

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