New Kit

gasket said:
80% set on a headstock shape, any better suggestions???
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Something subtle?
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Today I milled a recess for the rear inspection cover, also sanded and timber filled the heel to body joint.
Steady steady, not a race.

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I'm planning on gloss black for the back and sides. Undecided between bright red or natural timber for the front, not sure yet. I have Tru-Oil on the way for the future project but if I go red with this one any suggestions on finish type???
I did a kit some time ago in enamel, it took a long time to fully harden but it's great now. Some look down on such, as said suggestions???
 
I recently had a great experience with Tru Oil. It is easy to work with and leaves a nice finish. Check my NG Project thread for some helpful tips, or I weill get them for you when I am at a computer if you decide to go that way. If not, poly over nitro every time. Repairs are easy, it does not discolor when it comes into contact with petrolium based products (like rubber) and it doesnot check (crack) in the long term. The argument for nitro is generally that it lets the wood breath and allows a natural aging which is beneficial to resonance, which I discount completely since I do not believe in tone wood for electric guitars.

Nice work with the milling. What tools did you useto mill the back plate recess?
 
here is the Tru Oil advice

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I've been a Professional Restoration, Finishing & Painting Contractor since 1980, the Summer I Graduated High School. I used to help my Dad & Grandad from 12 years old onwards and I've used just about every kind of Coating there is. I'd like to make a few suggestions to help you. First use VM&P Napthia (Varnish Makers & Painters) instead of Mineral Spirits. (Paint Thinner) Napthia is also known as Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol or Zippo, Coleman Camping Fuel or White Gas (not Gasoline) but VM&P is the best because it's a little cleaner/higher grade. VM&P Napthia will mix in better, your Tru-Oil will set (tack) up quicker, dry faster and cure out a little harder plus being a much higher grade Solvent than Mineral Spirits it will increase the shine. Always measure and stir it in (don't whip, it'll add air bubbles) whatever Solvent you use to thin the Finish you're using. This way you can easily replicate it and you'll have consistently from batch to batch. Try 3 Tablespoons of Tru-Oil & 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. If that's too thick add another 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. Keep adding VM&P 1/2 at the time until you've got the desired viscosity. Once you've got your ratios down you can replicate the excact same formula over and and your finish will be perfect and consistent. You can make larger batches by using a Shot Glass in the same ratio. If You have a some Baby Food Jars with a good Rubber Seal in their lids. You can mix up a jar full at the time if you have 2-3 Guitars to finish. Even if you don't mix a jar full you can keep your leftovers in a Baby Food Jar. Also it's really best to use your thinned Tru-Oil for your First Coat because it will Soak in and Penetrate Deeper. This will Bond & Seal your Wood better. It won't hurt to use your thinned Tru-Oil for all your Coats, you may find you like this better. The Best Sealer is Zinsser Seal-Coat. It's a 100% wax free Shellac compable under all Clear Finishes, even Hot Solvent Finishes like Lacquer and 2 part Epoxies and Alphatic Urethane. If you Seal your Wood with Zinsser Seal-Coat Your Tru-Oil, Polyurethane, Lacquer, etc. will have greater "Enamel Holdout" (higher gloss/sheen) plus all your Top Coats lay down and smooth out better. Lastly put a little Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue on the little Cardboard/Paper Seal that comes in your Tru-Oil's Top to keep it in place and store it upside down. This will keep it Fresh longer and if it Skins or Scabs over this Will be on the bottom when you turn it right side up. Hope this Helps you. look for Jimmy Reaves (no picture) on Facebook. I'll send you my email and help you all I can.
 
RVA said:
I recently had a great experience with Tru Oil. It is easy to work with and leaves a nice finish. Check my NG Project thread for some helpful tips, or I weill get them for you when I am at a computer if you decide to go that way. If not, poly over nitro every time. Repairs are easy, it does not discolor when it comes into contact with petrolium based products (like rubber) and it doesnot check (crack) in the long term. The argument for nitro is generally that it lets the wood breath and allows a natural aging which is beneficial to resonance, which I discount completely since I do not believe in tone wood for electric guitars.

Nice work with the milling. What tools did you useto mill the back plate recess?
Click to expand...

I haven't got around (yet) to buying a router so milled the recess with my Dremel. On the outer edge I could use the depth gauge but as the body is convex had to freehand the inner side.

You said "poly over nitro every time". Never used or even know what those products are. Do they require mixing A and B parts and do you require high pressure spray equipment? As said I have had a good result with pressure packed enamel but always happy to lift my game if the effort to reward ratio is good.
 
gasket said:
I haven't got around (yet) to buying a router so milled the recess with my Dremel. On the outer edge I could use the depth gauge but as the body is convex had to freehand the inner side.

You said "poly over nitro every time". Never used or even know what those products are. Do they require mixing A and B parts and do you require high pressure spray equipment? As said I have had a good result with pressure packed enamel but always happy to lift my game if the effort to reward ratio is good.
Click to expand...
I apply poly from a spray can. U-pol # 1
 
RVA is stating he prefers poly as opposed to nitro. Not using them together ...that would be bad. :)
Also the base color you use needs to be a chemical formula compatible to EITHER poly OR nitro depending on which you plan to use.

Don't cross the streams .......so to speak.
 
eSGEe said:
RVA is stating he prefers poly as opposed to nitro. Not using them together ...that would be bad. :)
Also the base color you use needs to be a chemical formula compatible to EITHER poly OR nitro depending on which you plan to use.

Don't cross the streams .......so to speak.
Click to expand...

That's what I got from Sysco's post then a search.
So the poly is only a clear (make it shine and look deep) finish?
 
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