New body day

syscokid said:
I forgot to ask earlier but... Have you played a guitar with this type of setup? For me, not having a (pickup selector) switch would be kind of weird.
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I did one a few years ago with no pickup selector switch and I liked it just fine. I had a couple of mini switches, but no pickup switch. One of the switches was a direct to jack switch on the bridge pickup that I really liked and the other one I don't remember what it did, maybe for out of phase or something.

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syscokid said:
Rest of the body will be covered and finished in Tru-Oil?
The neck finish? I'm not familiar with the specs on wenge. Pourous like mahogany? Or dense like maple?
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Yes, tru-oil finish on the whole body. The wenge doesn't require a finish and I can't imagine putting anything on it, it feels so smooth and fast raw.

Here's part of the description from Warmoth...
" Very hard, coarser textured wood with open grain and very stiff. Playing-wise, the coarse grain translates to less surface drag for your thumb while sliding. So though it's coarse, it's actually very fast while playing on it. "
 
Wenge is just freakin incredible in your hand.

Steve, thinking about the stain, are you going to mask it and do the top first before you stain and do the back to avoid bleed?
 
CoyotesGator said:
Wenge is just freakin incredible in your hand.

Steve, thinking about the stain, are you going to mask it and do the top first before you stain and do the back to avoid bleed?
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I'm thinking that will be the way to do it, but I'm going to have to try a test piece first unless I can find someone who's done it before and can tell me if it'll work. I think I know who to ask.
 
So I'm about to start the finish. I want to dye the back and sides a dark brown to match up with the wenge neck, but I only want straight tru-oil on the top because it's the perfect color as is. I'm not sure how I can do this without any color bleeding into the maple top. I think maybe I should to the oil on top first, but I don't know if the oil will bleed under the tape into the mahogany on the sides. I guess I'm just going to go for it unless someone has any advice.

Here's a mock up of what I'm going to do. Volume/Volume/tone. Then later if I decide I need a switch I'll put it centered above the 2 volume knobs.


rNX4iMj.jpg
 
DirtySteve said:
So I'm about to start the finish. I want to dye the back and sides a dark brown to match up with the wenge neck, but I only want straight tru-oil on the top because it's the perfect color as is. I'm not sure how I can do this without any color bleeding into the maple top. I think maybe I should to the oil on top first, but I don't know if the oil will bleed under the tape into the mahogany on the sides. I guess I'm just going to go for it unless someone has any advice.

Here's a mock up of what I'm going to do. Volume/Volume/tone. Then later if I decide I need a switch I'll put it centered above the 2 volume knobs.


rNX4iMj.jpg
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Some general advice
 
RVA said:
Some general advice
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Thanks man! I didn't think to look at faux binding technique. I wasn't finding anything in my searches. That told me exactly what I needed to know right near the beginning when he said you need to mask off and then seal the part you don't want to dye. That's what I couldn't find the answer to, but that's what I was thinking and my buddy Gator asked the same thing earlier so it looks like that's the way to do it. Cheers! :cheers:
 
Got it dyed today, took about 3 applications to get it dark enough. It's pretty close, I know it doesn't look like it in this pic, the camera doesn't get the color right. When it was still wet the color was even better so with some oil on the body it it's going to be a pretty good match up. I'm very happy with how it's turning out.

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