NCD: Peavey 430A 412 cabinet

LOL. As our friends in the video above would have said, pizdetz!

I called Leon and he said he can put it through a sanding machine to reduce it to the correct thickness for $20, which is half the cost of making a new board. It's going to cost me at least $20 in fuel to get there today though, so I'd better hang around in Adelaide tonight and go to a friend's gig
 
Went in there again today, Leon charged me the minimum machining charge ($20 + $2 GST) to mill the board down to 12mm on its back surface, so I didn't have to redrill the holes for the screws on the new jack bezel. Included in that was cutting down the centre post slightly so that I don't have to bow the back panel as much for a tight fit, given that even 12mm MDF doesn't bend as well as 12mm particle board. I was excited to reassemble it when I got home so that I could test fit everything, and it seems good so far! I think I will put felt on the inside of the new back panel, any ideas on that? I have it on the other cab and that sounds good. Apparently the sound can reflect off the back panel and cause problems without some kind of soft covering.

Here's the panel after being sanded down to 12mm thickness. The centre post has been installed and it all tightened up nicely. I've left the weather protection on for now.

8ieGCyo.jpg
 
Well, I got the speakers out, but I am left with three screws that seem to bind too much. Maybe they were bent a little when removing the speakers? The bend isn't visible to my eyes but they definitely have trouble going back in, even into different screw holes.

I put some loop velcro on the end of the centre post.

0yUgFQn.jpg
 
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Dave, do you know about thread fixers or tap and dies? My guess is either someone cross threaded the bolts or nuts or as we often get here in the US nowadays, cheap Chinese bits that barely will screw together even at the store. Whenever I buy nuts and bolts, I make sure I test fit them before putting them in my cart. There are numerous tools to make your bolts screw in properly.

 
I've made a lot of progress on the back panel today. It was a bit of a family effort. I got my mum to help me, she was an extra pair of hands with the cutting and folding over of the tolex. I also got these clamps from Mitre 10 and used a sewing needle and the wood burning kit I bought from Bunnings years ago to make the holes in the tolex for all the screws. Doing it that way prevents it from tearing, as it melts the edge of the tolex to the holes in the board. The needle was just for a guide. I placed the old board on top and pushed the needle through to make guide holes in the new board for the wood burner. My dad had the spray adhesive lying around because he bought it to repair the hood lining in his MGB. I haven't added the fluff yet. The next job will be to fit the Vintage 30s. I removed them from the Ashton cab today.

The spray adhesive:

jI66kQf.jpg


The fluffy fake fur stuff that I bought the other day, but I still haven't added that yet:

1ca4Acf.jpg


The panel after fitting the tolex, up on a shoebox so that I could use clamps on it. The tolex over the hole was cut into eight triangles so that it could fold in.

iweVvxS.jpg


The Ashton cab with Celestion Vintage 30s. As you can see it is wired mono. I have my soldering iron on the floor getting ready to remove the wiring so that I can remove the speakers. It is quite obvious in this photo that the cab is made from particle board. I think it is 16mm.

BBbOoid.jpg


Minus the wiring, getting ready to remove the speakers. The Stephens speakers from the Peavey cab are in those apple boxes. I got some banana boxes today to store the V30s until I can install them in the Peavey cab.

iOLcs4V.jpg


After removing the speakers. Note the particle board panel at the top right partially covering the speaker hole. That was to mount the horrible Ashton logo that a previous owner removed.

fSwnwXz.jpg


Test fitting the panel in the back of the cab with the jack bezel as well. Note that there are no screw holes yet.

8R4omSJ.jpg


The old panel laid on top of the new one so that I can push that needle through to make guide holes before using that wood burner to finish the holes.

L6gt99C.jpg


Holes finished (including for the screws on the bezel), and the first complete test fit with tolex:

AghJTqm.jpg












 
Dave Sloven said:
Went in there again today, Leon charged me the minimum machining charge ($20 + $2 GST) to mill the board down to 12mm on its back surface, so I didn't have to redrill the holes for the screws on the new jack bezel. Included in that was cutting down the centre post slightly so that I don't have to bow the back panel as much for a tight fit, given that even 12mm MDF doesn't bend as well as 12mm particle board. I was excited to reassemble it when I got home so that I could test fit everything, and it seems good so far! I think I will put felt on the inside of the new back panel, any ideas on that? I have it on the other cab and that sounds good. Apparently the sound can reflect off the back panel and cause problems without some kind of soft covering.

Here's the panel after being sanded down to 12mm thickness. The centre post has been installed and it all tightened up nicely. I've left the weather protection on for now.

8ieGCyo.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks excellent!
 
Dave Sloven said:
I've made a lot of progress on the back panel today. It was a bit of a family effort. I got my mum to help me, she was an extra pair of hands with the cutting and folding over of the tolex. I also got these clamps from Mitre 10 and used a sewing needle and the wood burning kit I bought from Bunnings years ago to make the holes in the tolex for all the screws. Doing it that way prevents it from tearing, as it melts the edge of the tolex to the holes in the board. The needle was just for a guide. I placed the old board on top and pushed the needle through to make guide holes in the new board for the wood burner. My dad had the spray adhesive lying around because he bought it to repair the hood lining in his MGB. I haven't added the fluff yet. The next job will be to fit the Vintage 30s. I removed them from the Ashton cab today.

The spray adhesive:

jI66kQf.jpg


The fluffy fake fur stuff that I bought the other day, but I still haven't added that yet:

1ca4Acf.jpg


The panel after fitting the tolex, up on a shoebox so that I could use clamps on it. The tolex over the hole was cut into eight triangles so that it could fold in.

iweVvxS.jpg


The Ashton cab with Celestion Vintage 30s. As you can see it is wired mono. I have my soldering iron on the floor getting ready to remove the wiring so that I can remove the speakers. It is quite obvious in this photo that the cab is made from particle board. I think it is 16mm.

BBbOoid.jpg


Minus the wiring, getting ready to remove the speakers. The Stephens speakers from the Peavey cab are in those apple boxes. I got some banana boxes today to store the V30s until I can install them in the Peavey cab.

iOLcs4V.jpg


After removing the speakers. Note the particle board panel at the top right partially covering the speaker hole. That was to mount the horrible Ashton logo that a previous owner removed.

fSwnwXz.jpg


Test fitting the panel in the back of the cab with the jack bezel as well. Note that there are no screw holes yet.

8R4omSJ.jpg


The old panel laid on top of the new one so that I can push that needle through to make guide holes before using that wood burner to finish the holes.

L6gt99C.jpg


Holes finished (including for the screws on the bezel), and the first complete test fit with tolex:

AghJTqm.jpg











Click to expand...

That's beautifully done...

Are you making a hat out of the fake fur???
 
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The fake fur is going on the inside of the back panel. The Ashton has some fluffy stuff on the back panel that seems to work well. It prevents sound bouncing back onto the speakers, apparently.

Here's a photo of the Ashton back panel with its merkin, ha ha

WcwzUjN.jpg


The jack wire goes through that part that looks untidy. The new stuff I bought is heaps more swish though, more like the fur on a goth girl's coat
 
Dave Sloven said:
The fake fur is going on the inside of the back panel. The Ashton has some fluffy stuff on the back panel that seems to work well. It prevents sound bouncing back onto the speakers, apparently.

Here's a photo of the Ashton back panel with its merkin, ha ha

WcwzUjN.jpg


The jack wire goes through that part that looks untidy. The new stuff I bought is heaps more swish though, more like the fur on a goth girl's coat
Click to expand...

That should work well!
 
The cab is back together and inside on its wheels again now. I've tested the speaker cable with the multimeter and it reads roughly the same as my 16 ohm Orange cab, so I must have wired it up right. I will try playing some noise through it next, but I am a bit nervous. Not too loud because it is late and we have neighbours, just loud enough to make sure it is working.

I decided to attach the lining for the back panel with velcro, in case I want to remove it. So I added a border of loop velcro to the inside surface of the back panel:

DOj7PEB.jpg


Then I added some patches of hook velcro (shown before removing backing on the adhesive side):

sUVDvOx.jpg


I cut a cross in the covering where the jack will be, and then pressed the fake fur down on the adhesive side of the hook velcro:

ASaf9dv.jpg


I placed the empty cab on the workbench and installed the top two speakers first, facing the tabs in as per that wiring diagram a couple of pages back.ę
f6EqYtT.jpg


There was some problems with one of the screws but the guys at Zimmer Engineering around the corner helped me out by running a file over the threads and I finished the job by running the screw in and out of the T-nut a few times and then lubricated it a bit until it turned freely. Here it is with all four speakers installed:

qnyV679.jpg


Here you can see the series wires in the series/parallel wiring. I used 16AWG wire, which is pretty thick and did not allow for the twisty wiring that Marshalls get using 22AWG.

vL5KYwj.jpg


Here you can see all the black wires in and soldered to the jack, as well as the 60/40 solder and zip ties I used. I had to twist one of the black wires around the other, solder them together and then solder the end of one wire (both would have been too thick) into the earth terminal on the jack (the red wires were done the same way and then connected to the hot terminal on the jack). I used electrical tape to insulate the join.

64lx173.jpg


Here you see the finished wiring job. Note that I have made the wires just long enough so that the back panel can be removed and sat next to the cab to allow inspection without removing the jack from the back panel.

8r4UVSS.jpg


Here's the cab with the wiring finished and the back panel reinstalled, ready to be lifted down off the bench and to have its casters reinstalled so that it can be wheeled back into the house for testing. That workbench was my grandfather's, I think he made it in the 1940s.

R3CKbup.jpg
 
I put the Stephens TRU-Sonic V30 speakers from the 430A Peavey cab into the Ashton cab (the one that used to have the Celestion Vintage 30s before) today, and rewired it with 16AWG. I also changed the inserts for the Ernie Ball casters, as the old ones were worn out. Now I just need to find a buyer. I will price it cheap enough, basically giving the cab away with the speakers. I will test it tomorrow with the multimeter and my nephew's 60W Peavey 6505+ 112 combo, which I have here at the moment.

The front of the Stephens speakers:

owexthr.jpg


I installed the speakers the same way as in the Peavey cab, with the contacts facing the centre. You can see the tops of the caster inserts poking through the bottom of the cab:

A3JduCF.jpg


I use 60/40 solder from Jaycar Electronics and "Bakers" Soldering Fluid from Mitre 10. The brush is for the flux fluid.

mNNLe69.jpg


The cab came with a plastic Cliff type jack, which I re-used but it was a real pain in the arse to wire up with this 16AWG wire. If I have problems with the test tomorrow that is the first place I will look.

66tPqHI.jpg


This is the bottom of the cab with the inserts replaced. I bought those heavy duty corners from Cecere's Music on Magill Road. They have them, you just have to make sure the right guy is there because some people don't have a clue where anything is out in the storeroom ...

7Pn3We3.jpg

 
Good amount of work, DD.
Look forward to you having the cab ready to use and do no more work on.

I know this is a simple demo, but I sure love hearing the differences in the cabs, and the more I hear cab comparisons, the more I want to combine various cabs.

 
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