L.P. Shielding

Now when I was building guitars under the Von Herndon name. I shielded 25 guitars in less than 2 weeks. I ran out of copper tape and nobody had it locally. Some people advocate using the snail copper tape, but I have found that when you apply it in sections, the adhesive is not conductive and the individual pieces do not have full continuity. I found a solution at the Dollar Store while looking for some craft supplies for my Son's diorama school project.

They sell a 2" wide aluminum tape for $1.00 a roll. It's much thinner than copper, but it worked well and gave full continuity. I still prefer copper, but this is a locally obtainable solution when a project must be completed and you cannot wait for resupply. I have applied copper over aluminum and aluminum over copper with excellent continuity.

Many times, I will shield the cavity cover plates with aluminum, just to save on the copper tape.
 
Once the cavity is shielded with the copper, all the pots will automatically be grounded together because they are now in contact with the copper. There is no need to connect jumper wires between the pots to complete a ground circuit. The overall finished look of the wiring layout will look cleaner.

And to be clear:
You still have to make sure the output jack is grounded to any one of the pots, or the copper.
Make sure the bridge or stop bar is grounded to a pot, or the copper.
Make sure the pup selector switch is grounded to a pot, or the copper.
 
Robert Herndon said:
Now when I was building guitars under the Von Herndon name. I shielded 25 guitars in less than 2 weeks. I ran out of copper tape and nobody had it locally. Some people advocate using the snail copper tape, but I have found that when you apply it in sections, the adhesive is not conductive and the individual pieces do not have full continuity. I found a solution at the Dollar Store while looking for some craft supplies for my Son's diorama school project.

They sell a 2" wide aluminum tape for $1.00 a roll. It's much thinner than copper, but it worked well and gave full continuity. I still prefer copper, but this is a locally obtainable solution when a project must be completed and you cannot wait for resupply. I have applied copper over aluminum and aluminum over copper with excellent continuity.

Many times, I will shield the cavity cover plates with aluminum, just to save on the copper tape.
Click to expand...
I have used aluminum tape on all of my projects. The results have been 100% successful.
ps: Gold tape was not an affordable option. ;)
 
Robert Herndon said:
Here's the method I use. perhaps it will help you...

When finished, you should have a nice, 'patchwork quilt' look to the cavity.

View attachment 28487

On a Les Paul, I start by taking a section of paper and covering each cavity. I then press down to impart a ridge in the paper that matches the outline of the cavity. I will then cut along the indentation and set it aside. In your case with 2" wide tape, I will lay the paper across the face of the tape and trace the outline. Two pieces can be overlapped to cover the bottom of the control cavity. Once these are cut, I apply them to the bottom of the cavity and press them down with a wooden dowel, or a wooden spoon.

Next, I will cut strips of tape - rough;t 1/4" wide - and apply them into the radius between the floor and wall of the cavity. A dowel or wooden spoon works great here as you can roll it along the transition and press the tape into place. Don't sweat a tear in the tape. Just patch the tear and move forward.

For the walls of the cavity, I again make a paper template and transfer that to my tape. I cover the walls in 4 long sections, but the longer the tape, the harder it is to handle when the backing is removed, so shorter sections are fine.

For the top, again a paper template is useful and eliminates waste. I sometimes shield 4-5 guitars a week, so I try to avoid waste at every turn and get the guitars done as quickly as possible.

Now, when I first started doing this, I used a different approach that made the tape easier to handle. Long sections of tape are tough to handle as they want to roll up on you. I will describe this method. It's the method I recommend for beginners.

With 2" tape (any width can be used but 2" is used here because that's the width you are using) cut a section 2" long. Apply that to the middle of the cavity. Cut another. Apply it with about a 25% overlap. Then another and another, working your way across the cavity and up the walls of the cavity. It doesn't matter how many little sections you use. As long as they overlap, the Faraday effect will be complete.
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Wow,

You sir are one badass forum bro!

Don't even know how to properly respond to such a thoughtful and selfless post.

For sure I'll be using that guide Robert that you so generously constructed.

I so appreciate all your time and efforts, there's no doubt you have any idea on how proud I am to have a friend like you.

Beers and dinner on me bro if-when we have a face to face!

Thanks again! :cheers: :H5: :dood:
 
steveb63 said:
Wow,

You sir are one badass forum bro!

Don't even know how to properly respond to such a thoughtful and selfless post.

For sure I'll be using that guide Robert that you so generously constructed.

I so appreciate all your time and efforts, there's no doubt you have any idea on how proud I am to have a friend like you.

Beers and dinner on me bro if-when we have a face to face!

Thanks again! :cheers: :H5: :dood:
Click to expand...

Im always happy to help... :-)
 
steveb63 said:
Uh thanks for the kind offer and all, think we'll see how the shielding works first.

But the offers on the table? thanks.

You're most definitely welcome to play it if you ever get to Prescott Valley, Az., or we have a West Coast blow out.
Click to expand...
Thank you -- I have a rule not to go North of the Fl. Ga line--- or WEST of the Ms. anymore ....... :)
 
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