High Voltages After Headfirst Origin 50 Mod

syscokid said:
So today, I'm finally get this process started with Rob's amp. Some pics of the setup and a short clip of the amp cranked before any mods are done.

Olympus LS-10 pocket recorder + Rivera RockCrusher attenuator + Orgy 50:
View attachment 72883

View attachment 72884

Mojotone Slammins with Scumback M75-LD's:
View attachment 72885

My settings on Rob's amp:
View attachment 72886
Rob's settings are a bit more extreme, and he plays with a lot more volume. The Master volume is on 6, and the amp is pumping hard. Thank God for attenuators. The Rivera attenuator was set for -16dB reduction (The pic shows -12dB).

And the guitar used for the clip is my '04 Hamer Studio Custom and a SD '59 Custom Hybrid in the bridge (Medium output, 10.8K):
View attachment 72887

The amp's boost was on, too:
https://soundcloud.com/id%3Dgreg-grinberg-210583720%252Frobsorigin-b4-mods-9-5-21wav%3Btrack_id%3D1119310357
Click to expand...
Sounds great to me, but I know Robert is going for heavier tones than what the amp can do on its own.
Cheers
 
Last edited:
Robert Herndon said:
My amp runs 8 hours a day. I change tubes often. The Russian B759 tubes are fine. I don't compete with anyone...there's no money in it.
Click to expand...
Though im not a full time musician or even a half assed one, i share your perspective on this. If the tubes sound great, get the job done and hold up reasonably, what more could you ask? Doesnt matter what country they came out of, the year of manufacture, how much you spent: it matters what you do with it. Having $150 a piece tubes mean nothing if you arent going to use them
 
syscokid said:
So today, I'm finally get this process started with Rob's amp. Some pics of the setup and a short clip of the amp
Click to expand...

You wanna have some fun…just solder a plain wire on the PCB somewhere and see if Robert can tell the difference!

That should be good for some laughs…right? Right?

(But, don’t tell him about it….we need to keep that on the down-low.)
 
Well, I thought the component removal phase was going to take about an hour. Man, was I way off wrong! After spending 8 hours into just removing the necessary components, I can honestly say that this winkie-sucking mother intercourse piece of poop Marshall PCB is NOT FRIENDLY FOR MODDING.... :BH:
 
syscokid said:
Well, I thought the component removal phase was going to take about an hour. Man, was I way off wrong! After spending 8 hours into just removing the necessary components, I can honestly say that this winkie-sucking mother intercourse piece of :poo: Marshall PCB is NOT FRIENDLY FOR MODDING.... :BH:
Click to expand...

UGH!!!!!!
 
Robert example just restored a China Vox AC-30 $150.00 cost of salvage it looked cool then 10 hours repair time $100.00 parts
sold $600.00 my labor $750.00 a loss of $400.00 get it. Before I touch a amp look up blue book price it saves a lot of issues.
In the Marshall world 1975 is the cutoff date why after 1975 they lowered the B+ voltage just ask Dave Friedman.
I found 470 VDC on the plates for an EL34 is in the zone 440 VDC for 6L6GC
Jimmy Pages Axis amp was 471 VDC on the plates killer sounding amp.

Axis.jpg
 
67plexi said:
Robert example just restored a China Vox AC-30 $150.00 cost of salvage it looked cool then 10 hours repair time $100.00 parts
sold $600.00 my labor $750.00 a loss of $400.00 get it. Before I touch a amp look up blue book price it saves a lot of issues.
In the Marshall world 1975 is the cutoff date why after 1975 they lowered the B+ voltage just ask Dave Friedman.
I found 470 VDC on the plates for an EL34 is in the zone 440 VDC for 6L6GC
Jimmy Pages Axis amp was 471 VDC on the plates killer sounding amp.

View attachment 72897
Click to expand...

It's cool, Man..Very nice stuff indeed.

Not everybody wants to shell out the dough for vintage equipment. Personally, we do a lot of philanthropy and that brings us a lot of joy, so the more expensive my equipment, the less I can do for others, if you can dig it...
 
Thatbastarddon said:
Don’t hold back man….
:cheers:
Click to expand...
Yeah Brother Don, my frustration turned into a feeling of incompetence. But I also wanted to see how this forum's profane word censoring system would filter some of my French. I thought it came out pretty funny, so I left it at that... :cheers:

I've never experienced such difficulties in soldering removal of the parts. I honestly thought something was wrong with my soldering iron. Robert Herndon contacted Jason Tong about my experience, and was told the manufacturer's solder is ROHS compliant and is lead free... Leaded Solder Matters... :dancepoo:
 
syscokid said:
Yeah Brother Don, my frustration turned into a feeling of incompetence. But I also wanted to see how this forum's profane word censoring system would filter some of my French. I thought it came out pretty funny, so I left it at that... :cheers:

I've never experienced such difficulties in soldering removal of the parts. I honestly thought something was wrong with my soldering iron. Robert Herndon contacted Jason Tong about my experience, and was told the manufacturer's solder is ROHS compliant and is lead free... Leaded Solder Matters... :dancepoo:
Click to expand...
Well…yeah….it was humorous indeed! But sad at the same time.
I tried a sample of ROHS compliant, and immediately switched back to the old school Kester. I haven’t had to do much to ROHS boards, but I can imagine the frustration.
:cheers:
 
syscokid said:
Yeah Brother Don, my frustration turned into a feeling of incompetence. But I also wanted to see how this forum's profane word censoring system would filter some of my French. I thought it came out pretty funny, so I left it at that... :cheers:

I've never experienced such difficulties in soldering removal of the parts. I honestly thought something was wrong with my soldering iron. Robert Herndon contacted Jason Tong about my experience, and was told the manufacturer's solder is ROHS compliant and is lead free... Leaded Solder Matters... :dancepoo:
Click to expand...

I've only ever used the old lead/tin solders. I poked around and found this from an electronics article - Source: hakkousa.com

"In general, the melting point of lead-free solder is 20℃ to 45℃ higher than conventional eutectic solder. (A popular type contains approximately 40% lead.)

Assume, for example, that a soldering iron is set to a temperature of 340℃ to use eutectic solder (Sn-Pb). If the eutectic solder is replaced with lead-free solder (Sn-0.7Cu), the soldering iron must be set to around 380℃, which is close to the maximum temperature for soldering. Such a high temperature also causes shorter tip life (due to oxidation or erosion), carbonization of the flux in the solder, and splashing of the flux and solder. (It is said that using lead-free solder decreases the tip life by 4 to 5 times compared with eutectic solder.)"

I found this page to be a great resource of information:

Lead Free Solder in guitar amps and the audio industry. - Keld Ampworks Guitar Amplifier Repair

There are a lot of myths regarding lead free solder in guitar amps. Guitar amps had some early issues with lead free solder, these have since been fixed.
www.ampworks.co.uk www.ampworks.co.uk
 
syscokid said:
Yeah Brother Don, my frustration turned into a feeling of incompetence. But I also wanted to see how this forum's profane word censoring system would filter some of my French. I thought it came out pretty funny, so I left it at that... :cheers:

I've never experienced such difficulties in soldering removal of the parts. I honestly thought something was wrong with my soldering iron. Robert Herndon contacted Jason Tong about my experience, and was told the manufacturer's solder is ROHS compliant and is lead free... Leaded Solder Matters... :dancepoo:
Click to expand...

You’re making this way too difficult.

Just solder some wires here and there and be done.

Placebo is a remarkable thing!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top