High Voltages After Headfirst Origin 50 Mod

I installed the Metro FX Loop module in both of my JCM800s. The V2 Amps FX loop module in my V2 Caldera is very similar to the Metro. Mojotone also offers an FX Loop module.

Zero Loss FX loop kit – Metropoulos Amplification

Mojotone Discrete Hi-Voltage Series Effects Loop for Vacuum Tube Amplifiers - Mojotone.com



I certainly have the time, and also wouldn't mind molesting your amp. But, I live about 4 1/2 hours from you. AmpMadScientist lives about 15 minutes from me.
How far are you guys from Benicia? I have a cousin there I need to go visit once I finish up with my vaccinations.
 
I installed the Metro FX Loop module in both of my JCM800s. The V2 Amps FX loop module in my V2 Caldera is very similar to the Metro. Mojotone also offers an FX Loop module.

Zero Loss FX loop kit – Metropoulos Amplification

Mojotone Discrete Hi-Voltage Series Effects Loop for Vacuum Tube Amplifiers - Mojotone.com



I certainly have the time, and also wouldn't mind molesting your amp. But, I live about 4 1/2 hours from you. AmpMadScientist lives about 15 minutes from me.

Not that far for quality work.

How do you mount the FX loop???
 
From what i can see here: the Metro FX loop has to be used to give you back the FX loop you are basically going to rob from the Headfirst Mod and it taking away your FX loop preamp tube. So the factory loop seems to be null and void after the Headfirst mod.

As far as the Metro Loop fitting into the same slots as the existing one? Not sure, would have to look at it and the input hole requirements compared to whats there now. The Metro Loop though doesnt need its own tube as it taps out of the PI inputs. Kinda going by the design of older Marshalls like the JTM45, 1959,1987,JMP and JCM800s where a loop didnt exist to begin with

Thanks, Man!!! I didn't know that!
 
Not that far for quality work.

How do you mount the FX loop???
I watched enough of the Headfirst loop install video, and it shows that the new fx loop board is added over the existing amp's pcb. The new fx loop pcb's input and output jacks are first removed then the new board is hardwired to the amp's original in and out fx loop jacks. There should be 4 more wired connections after that. One for grounding the new board's circuit. One for the power. One after the tonestack. And one before the phase inverter.

Might have to drill one new hole for the fx loop bypass switch... if you want to have one at all!
 
Last edited:
I watched enough of the Headfirst loop install video, and it shows that the new fx loop board is added over the existing amp's pcb. The new fx loop pcb's input and output jacks are first removed then the new board is hardwired to the amp's original in and out fx loop jacks. There should be 4 more wired connections after that. One for grounding the new board's circuit. One for the power. One after the tonestack. And one before the phase inverter.

Might have to drill one new hole for the fx loop bypass switch... if you want to have one at all!

You guys are super smart....

I don't have bypass at all. The FX loop comes online when you plug in the footswitch. I would say that whichever is easiest would be best.
 
You guys are super smart....

I don't have bypass at all. The FX loop comes online when you plug in the footswitch. I would say that whichever is easiest would be best.
Ah, ok then... Instead of wiring from the new loop board to the new bypass switch, I would think that you simply wire to the footswitch jack instead... maybe... :hmmm:
 
Ah, ok then... Instead of wiring from the new loop board to the new bypass switch, I would think that you simply wire to the footswitch jack instead... maybe... :hmmm:

This is all I know for sure...you cannot use the FX loop (bone stock) unless the footswitch is plugged in. The footswitch has two buttons, FX and BOOST.
 
@syscokid , @Amp Mad Scientist ...

I just reached out to the Headfirst fellow via email and asked some specifics about footswitch function, i.e., can gain still be reduced with the footswitch???

Also asked about the FX loop function after the Headfirst modification, i.e., is it still footswitch dependent???

Personally, I see no benefit to how Marshall made the loop non-functional unless the footswitch is plugged in.

I was thinking that, if the FX loop doesn't require the extra footswitch button, could that be used for something else???

I also asked his thoughts on shielding the box against EMI/RFI.

Also, since my amp runs pretty much all day long at work, I asked about the feasibility of a high performance, low noise PC fan.

I'll post up his responses in this thread...
 
@syscokid , @Amp Mad Scientist ,

Question...what power tubes would you collectively recommend in this amp for longevity???

I've heard people say KT77 and/or 6CA7's are more durable, and others say none are any more durable than the other.

Thoughts????
I would say tubes like Svetlana are made to last longer.
Tubes from China won't last very long...
The circuit may need to be changed to adjust the bias correctly, tubes are not easily interchangeable.

I have been disappointed in EHX tube matching many times...they have sent mismatched tube sets over and over again.
I probably won't buy any more of the EHX fake 6CA7s / EL34s.

I would prefer the bottom end of the 6L6 or 5881 (same basic tube). It sounds more hi-fi.
But again I need to re-bias the amp to accommodate a 6L6. Not interchangeable, without altering the bias circuit.
And when they start calling a 6550 the same as a KT88, it only makes me doubt them more.
 
Last edited:
I would say tubes like Svetlana are made to last longer.
Tubes from China won't last very long...
The circuit may need to be changed to adjust the bias correctly, tubes are not easily interchangeable.

I have been disappointed in EHX tube matching many times...they have sent mismatched tube sets over and over again.
I probably won't buy any more of the EHX fake 6CA7s / EL34s.

I would prefer the bottom end of the 6L6 or 5881 (same basic tube). It sounds more hi-fi.
But again I need to re-bias the amp to accommodate a 6L6. Not interchangeable, without altering the bias circuit.
And when they start calling a 6550 the same as a KT88, it only makes me doubt them more.

I apologize for all the questions, but I know little about any of this and I'm eager to learn.
 
I actually had the glass crack on a 90's Winged C a few months back. Bummed me out. I really liked the sound of those. I was lucky to find it right away. It was popping fuses every time I tried to come off stand by.

I mostly have the Mullard reissue EL34s in my amps. They seem to have good bottom end and bias easily. I used them in my Origin 50H when I had it.

I have a set of E34Ls as well. They are nice, but you may run out of bias adjustment with these.
 
Back
Top