HELP!--

no----I like the guitar-----
I couldn't do it either

But

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This could be a real problem, or not much of one at all. It all depends on the size of the holes that Dean drilled in the body for the neck attachment screws. If they were drilled to be the exact same size as the pilot holes in the neck, then you have a problem, because the screw threads will bite into the body just as much as the neck. This is what @gasket illustrated in post #20.

However, if the holes in the body were drilled larger than the pilot holes were drilled for the neck, the screw threads may just be catching a bit in the body wood, but not as much as the neck (depending on the diameter of the holes). If this is the case, you may be able to do what @jtcnj suggested in post #38. In fact, once you get the other screws out (assuming they don't break, too!), you may be able to get the neck off by just pulling on it as you wiggle it a little bit. But, pay attention that you don't splinter the wood in the process.

Again, it all comes down to how deeply the screw threads bite into the body material. I would assume they used a larger drill for the body to avoid the situation @gasket mentioned, whereby the screw could actually be tight to the point where you can no longer turn it, but the neck isn't being pulled tightly to the body.
 
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This could be a real problem, or not much of one at all. It all depends on the size of the holes that Dean drilled in the body for the neck attachment screws. If they were drilled to be the exact same size as the pilot holes in the neck, then you have a problem, because the screw threads will bite into the body just as much as the neck. This is what @gasket illustrated in post #20.
Yeah... I'm thinking this too. On 3 different guitars, I have removed the bolt-on necks. Everytime, those neck screws had to be unscrewed thru the body area. Meaning, that they did not just easily slide thru the body.
 
Yeah... I'm thinking this too. On 3 different guitars, I have removed the bolt-on necks. Everytime, those neck screws had to be unscrewed thru the body area. Meaning, that they did not just easily slide thru the body.

Were they as tight in the body as the neck? Just curious...
 
Nowhere near as tight, but I'm pretty sure that with a good hammer blow, the screws could be made to slide thru the body. But that technique would compromise the "snugness" of all parts involved.

Thats what i'm saying, even if there is a bit of tearout in the 1 body hole, it will be on the pocket side.
Its just 1 screw or you stopped after breaking the first one?
Either way, you loosen / align / seat and re- tighten anyway after applying string tension, right?

If it does not come away fairly easily, you may want to decide which part is more important to you and choose your path accordingly.

EDIT: even if you were to break all four, I would still proceed the same way working each of them a little at a time. If you can loosen the others, I would back them out some but leave them in to "catch" the neck should it come away after a series of controlled, exploratory hammer / drift blows.
 
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HERE YA GO GANG.....

all three "good screws" gingerly removed........

neck repair 1.jpg



NECK STILL "FIRMLY" in place............neck repair 2.jpg




AND here is why------- as I suspected and contrary to Gaskets thoughts----and cool drawing--- the threads are still securely and DEEPLY embedded in both neck and body :(
neck repair 3.jpg


Seeing as the damn thing is stable sa CRAP......I will do what I typically do (see signature ala Smitty) I will "adapt to the neck angle" and not alter the neck angle. :)

It works fine and has held tune perfectly for 2 days with a broken head -----so--- "F" it....for now

:)
 
Hell you live a hop skip and a jump away from Dean. Take it to them and tell them to fix their STUFF. REALLY . . . the wife has a nephew who works at Dean.
 
Well, Adrian, if it’s any consolation, you can always say you’re doing a “Fender” with that Dean.

For a time in the ‘70s, Fender was only using three screws to attach necks.
 
If the trip is not too far it may be worth the trip, may even get a factory tour. If I knew when you were going I may be able to get the nephew to use a little juice to assist you.
 
Well, Adrian, if it’s any consolation, you can always say you’re doing a “Fender” with that Dean.

For a time in the ‘70s, Fender was only using three screws to attach necks.
Ha ha.... Tom Anderson Guitars only uses 2 screws... but that is a different story... :wink:
 
I STILL say the thread isn't tightly fixed (screwed) to the body. It may have some "minimal" contact causing enough friction therefore holding all together. If it was screwed into body and neck you couldn't pull the two together by tightening the screws.
If it was mine I'd (with soft jaws, think old bath towels) clamp the neck in a vice. Then work the body up and off the neck. It may take a bit of elbow grease or even a lever or wedge working between the vice and body but it should pull off the broken screw.
Man I wish I was on the spot, I'm no real player, a mechanical problem solver? yes! BUT I should see the job and the tools on offer to correct the problem before offering too much long distance advice.
 
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