Fizzly, Sizzly, Fading in and out Sound.

Cadorman said:
So, I can get Amperex, Ei, Sylvania, GE or JAN GE EL84s. All are NOS and test as new and are available in matched pairs. Prices range from $109 to $129 for a matched pair. Any thoughts on which set I should try in the OR15?
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Crap I dunno. Any and all!!

Sylvania could be Mullard or not, Amperex are awesome but so are GE. Tis a crapshoot. All sound like winners to me.
I should look into a couple pair for my Mk V 35....
 
Cadorman said:
I swapped the stock EL84 power tubes back in and everything is fine other than it sounds harsh. Give me some good recommendations for EL84s other than the JJs I have. I will run new stuff if they sound decent.
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the only tubes ive found i can tell a difference with are the jj preamp tubes.....they sound a bit darker.
i did some tube swapping for the hell of it in my ac4c112.
i tried shuguang, electro harmonix, mullard, and tung sol.
i dont think it really matters with the new production tubes.
the tung sols are still in the amp because they were the last ones i tried.
 
Cadorman said:
So, I can get Amperex, Ei, Sylvania, GE or JAN GE EL84s. All are NOS and test as new and are available in matched pairs. Prices range from $109 to $129 for a matched pair. Any thoughts on which set I should try in the OR15?
Click to expand...
Ordinary Testing does not identify good tubes.
We should all stop assuming that ordinary testing tells us everything, because it won't.
A tube can test good, and it might sound like doo doo in a guitar amplifier. This is the reality.

The ordinary testing does not detect:
microphonics / ringing
Harmonic distortion
loose internal construction
Excessive noise, hiss, buzzing
lack of audio frequency response
does not test the tube under full load / does not detect grid voltage drifting
Does not detect snap crackle pop intermittent noises.

This is probably why lab testing (not ordinary testing) is used to identify the good tubes.
The best way to test a tube is in the amplifier itself.

2. Fake NOS tubes.
The marketplace is crawling with old used tubes that are falsely labeled "NOS."
Most of these tubes are not new. They are dug out of scrap bins.

3. There are a few real NOS tubes, and you want to be sure that you deal with a reputable source.
Real NOS tubes are NEW.
Either the tube is new, or it's old used, cut the bull crap.
There is no such thing as a used tube that "tests NOS." NOS means NEW and there is a line to be drawn.
 
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Amp Mad Scientist said:
Ordinary Testing does not identify good tubes.
We should all stop assuming that ordinary testing tells us everything, because it won't.
A tube can test good, and it might sound like doo doo in a guitar amplifier. This is the reality.

The ordinary testing does not detect:
microphonics / ringing
Harmonic distortion
loose internal construction
Excessive noise, hiss, buzzing
lack of audio frequency response
does not test the tube under full load / does not detect grid voltage drifting
Does not detect snap crackle pop intermittent noises.

This is probably why lab testing (not ordinary testing) is used to identify the good tubes.
The best way to test a tube is in the amplifier itself.

2. Fake NOS tubes.
The marketplace is crawling with old used tubes that are falsely labeled "NOS."
Most of these tubes are not new. They are dug out of scrap bins.

3. There are a few real NOS tubes, and you want to be sure that you deal with a reputable source.
Real NOS tubes are NEW.
Either the tube is new, or it's old used, cut the bull crap.
There is no such thing as a used tube that "tests NOS." NOS means NEW and there is a line to be drawn.
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So, I can physically walk into this shop in St. Paul, MN where the guy tests the tubes in stereo and guitar amps for sound quality, measures various attributes on a tube tester and only sells a handful of what he gaurrantees they are real NOS. He also sells current production stuff and repairs tube guitar amps, tube stereo amps and turntables. I'll stick with him I think.
 
ill tell yous that tube depot has great customer relations.
in 2018 i was about to go up to my hometown in oklahoma and sit in with my dads band.
ordered new tubes from tube depot...they got here....installed them.....one was not working properly.
it happens.
anyway, i called them and told them the situation...they said they would send a paid box to send them back, then when they got them they would send new ones.
i told them i needed them like yesterday because the gig is this weekend and didnt have time for all that.
so she said ok we will just send a new set and you can send us back the faulty set when you get back home. they did...tubes got here in time....they worked....i played the gig.
sent the bad ones back after.
that forever made me a customer.
 
If he has any Baldwin branded EL84's try those. The green labeled Baldwins are Sylvanias, and the gray/blue labeled Baldwins are Mat su sh itas / Raytheons. Usually they are fine tubes.

Baldwin, like other organ manufacturers "cherry picked" tubes from manufacturers, specifying non-microphonic tubes, since they bought in large quantities.
 
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The situation with your OR-15 could very well be a tube problem. And it could very well be the power tubes. But...:

Did you do a visual test on all the tubes in a dark room setting?

All the filaments glowing at a steady rate? Some 12AX7's filaments are well encased and might be difficult to see the glow of the heated filaments!

Gently move the tubes around in the live amp's sockets and listen for loose contacts?

Grab or pull from another amp or personal stash of extra 12AX7s, 12AT7s, and EL84s (Doesn't sound like you have extra EL84s lying around!), and swap them out?
 
T-Rex said:
If he has any Baldwin branded EL84's try those. The green labeled Baldwins are Sylvanias, and the gray/blue labeled Baldwins are Mat su sh itas / Raytheons. Usually they are fine tubes.

Baldwin, like other organ manufacturers "cherry picked" tubes from manufacturers, specifying non-microphonic tubes, since they bought in large quantities.
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I have a Baldwin 12AX7 that is an RFT. Super nice tube.
 
syscokid said:
The situation with your OR-15 could very well be a tube problem. And it could very well be the power tubes. But...:

Did you do a visual test on all the tubes in a dark room setting?

All the filaments glowing at a steady rate? Some 12AX7's filaments are well encased and might be difficult to see the glow of the heated filaments!

Gently move the tubes around in the live amp's sockets and listen for loose contacts?

Grab or pull from another amp or personal stash of extra 12AX7s, 12AT7s, and EL84s (Doesn't sound like you have extra EL84s lying around!), and swap them out?
Click to expand...
Yeah, I put the stock power tubes back in and everything has been good. Other than I don't like the tone. You know that scene in Spinal Tap where Paul Schaefer is asking the band to kick his ass? It was my bad. I bought a pair of EL84s off fleabay. They sounded great for the few weeks they worked. I'm running this little amp pretty hard. I usually have the volume in the 2-3 o'clock range. I can't hear myself yell
 
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