Crybaby mods (Catmandue's requested)

Cool, hope they work well. Dave Weyer is an electronics wizz (& was back then) so there must be a reason he chose them. No doubt the ohms setting on the trimpot will vary from the last but I really like this mod, allows us to get the best out of any inductor. I found the halo type inductors here in Oz (as well as Smallbear), at pedalparts.au, but they're pricey, at AU$70, more than the entire wah has cost me. I think if I was going to go that route I'd wind it myself. Looking forward to your end result. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
Cool, hope they work well. Dave Weyer is an electronics wizz (& was back then) so there must be a reason he chose them. No doubt the ohms setting on the trimpot will vary from the last but I really like this mod, allows us to get the best out of any inductor. I found the halo type inductors here in Oz (as well as Smallbear), at pedalparts.au, but they're pricey, at AU$70, more than the entire wah has cost me. I think if I was going to go that route I'd wind it myself. Looking forward to your end result. Cheers
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I'm considering the halo type inductor myself. I believe they are four posts instead of two like the Fasel. Now you got me curious about the price on these. LOL!
 
The smallbear one would be my choice. I imagine they would be the same grade of ferrite as the originals, which is what makes the old ones desireable. But its only after it has been in service for some time that it acquires the "desireable" characteristics. R G Keen (GEO FX) did some extensive testing of an old original unit & found that, due to the low grade of the ferrite material, after a while, due to the DC current flow through the inductor, the ferrite took on a small magnetic charge (its not supposed to) which affects the vocal quality of the wah (be mapped it out, pretty interesting). To get a new one to acquire the magnetic charge you would leave it powered up 24/7 for however long you could. He does suggest ways to simulate the effect by using a small audio transformer as the inductor & running a small DC component through the unused secondary winding to produce the magnetic offset. Would take a bit of experimenting I would image. I think Steve Daniels (smallbear proprietor) would know if the halo type he stocks is the same grade of ferrite as the old ones. Be good to know. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
The smallbear one would be my choice. I imagine they would be the same grade of ferrite as the originals, which is what makes the old ones desireable. But its only after it has been in service for some time that it acquires the "desireable" characteristics. R G Keen (GEO FX) did some extensive testing of an old original unit & found that, due to the low grade of the ferrite material, after a while, due to the DC current flow through the inductor, the ferrite took on a small magnetic charge (its not supposed to) which affects the vocal quality of the wah (be mapped it out, pretty interesting). To get a new one to acquire the magnetic charge you would leave it powered up 24/7 for however long you could. He does suggest ways to simulate the effect by using a small audio transformer as the inductor & running a small DC component through the unused secondary winding to produce the magnetic offset. Would take a bit of experimenting I would image. I think Steve Daniels (smallbear proprietor) would know if the halo type he stocks is the same grade of ferrite as the old ones. Be good to know. Cheers
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I did notice that the one from smallbear has six posts and the Dunlop one has four. I saw a photo on Amazon of the Dunlop one with the four posts. Money wise the smallbear is the way to go. I do wonder on the tone issue. According to one of the two reviews on Amazon for the Dunlop H101, after changing the stock inductor to the H101 there is suppose to be a distinct tonal change. I have to think this one over. I do have the other goods for the mod on the way. I like the smallbear option but, I wonder which two posts I have to clip?
 
You'd be able to check it with a meter for continuity on the two posts that are the important ones. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
You'd be able to check it with a meter for continuity on the two posts that are the important ones. Cheers
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As well as check what the ohms on the Halo are. On the CGB-95 I did the mod to the yellow Fasel I used was 16.4 ohms before I installed it. I know there has to be another way to measure the millihenrys. The Dunlop Halo is suppose to be 600 mhs.
 
A meter that measures inductance, denoted by an "L", or "Lx" meaning inductance multiplied by (relating to the switchable scale on the meter). The inductor needs to be out of the circuit to meaure. I wasn't aware that the Dunlop halo is supposed to be 600mh, thanks. Cheers
 
I keep coming back to this thread to prep for my mod on the JH-1. I just measured the ohms on the OEM inductor. It is one of the black hockey puck ones. It also has a green dot on it. It measures 18 ohms. I want to take photos posted on the Stinkfoot site you put up. I'm also going to copy over his notes. I'm waiting for my battery on my old Sony digital cam to charge up. I remember reading the stinkfoot guy said to change out a certain capacitor as well. I still need to check some of those readings. I've had a bit on my plate lately but this is keeping me involved and sane. Thanks for all the help again brother Ivan.
 
I have two .01 caps that I can use on a project board. I'll use one of them for the cap replacement Stinkfoot recommends. The trannys are on the way to me from two different sources. I should have them by next week. My GCB-95 sounds way better than the stock JT-1 right now. I was comparing them tonight and there is a big difference. I want to leave the inductor it has on it now. It is one of those black hockey puck ones with the green dot on it. If I change it out I'll get the Halo issue that smallbear carries.
 
I got the 2n3391a trannys today. I just ordered them yesterday. I'm waiting on the 2n3900a to arrive now. I'm waiting for all the parts to be here before I fire up the soldering iron.
 
Yes, best to have all parts on hand before starting. My wah started life as a Zakk Wylde ZW-45 which has all the same circuit values as the JH-1 (marketing, sheesh). It had more emphasis on the lower frequencies as it was. Changing out those two caps brought it back to the normal frequency response. I suppose its one of those personal preference things but it suits me better. Hope the transistor substitute works as well for you as it did for me. The MPSA-18, which is also a Darlington pair arrangement is much higher gain than the transistors originally used. Be sure to get the pin outs right as they are different. I had to angle the transistors at about 45 degrees to get the pins in the right holes, & bend the pins slightly (not much). I've no experience with the hockey puk type inductor (aka stack of dimes) but know that people like them in old wah's. Interested in how it turns out. Cheers
 
I got the 2n3900a transistors today. I have not checked out either of the two sets of transistors yet but, I do have all the materials now. I had to go to north Orange County today to my friends' wife birthday bash they had for her. I left early to south county where I live and just checked out your last post. I will make certain of the pin outs being correct. Like you let me know earlier they can all vary. I finally figured out how to use the hfe function on my Centec cheapie DMM. I had read the term stack of dimes before. I did not know I had one! Thanks!
 
By the way Ivan! I still have my original N30 inductor from my GCB-95. That is not a bad sounding inductor at all. It has around 57 ohms when I checked it. I'm almost tempted to use this one on the JH-1. I'm perfectly happy with the yellow Fasel I got in the GCB-95 now. After tweaking it with the 28 turn precision 1 K ohm trimmer I'm have a good mind to use it. I want to see what the stack of dimes sounds like after I mod it and tweak it with a single turn 1 K ohm trim pot. The N30 sounded pretty good on the old GCB-95. I could see it bring the JT-1 sound pretty respectable.
 
Yes, it would be worth giving the N30 at shot in it. Very interested in how this turns out. I think I can feel another wah build coming on myself. Need another enclosure for. Cheers
 
Ivan I have a question about replacing the sweep caps on the JH-1 back to .01uf value. I got a two pictures I'm going to post on here. One is of two smaller green .01uf caps still on the board I can use. The other one in the pack next to it is .01uf a little larger brown cap for 100v. The little green ones are 1/4 watt rated. That is all the info I have. Which of the two should I use? I also will post a shot of the JH-1 board with the green cap it comes with of higher uf value.


 
Hi C man, sorry for the late answer this morning, I had a late night & my head still feels a few sizes to big. Ok, both caps are mylar types (polyester) & either will be fine in this application. Use whichever has the best lead spacing (5mm). The green cap (exactly their common name) on the JH-1 board is the sweep cap, value 0.022uf. This is the same value the ZW-45 uses. I changed it back to the stock Crybaby value of 0.01uf for better high end focus. I'll include a point to point layout (done on turrets) out of interest. If I build another wah I'll probably do like thisC__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_VOX-V846-HW.png
& a pic of of an actual oneC__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_EFCVXV846H_2.jpg
Cheers
 
Catmandue said:
Ivan I have a question about replacing the sweep caps on the JH-1 back to .01uf value. I got a two pictures I'm going to post on here. One is of two smaller green .01uf caps still on the board I can use. The other one in the pack next to it is .01uf a little larger brown cap for 100v. The little green ones are 1/4 watt rated. That is all the info I have. Which of the two should I use? I also will post a shot of the JH-1 board with the green cap it comes with of higher uf value.


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Your pics aren't showing, Cat. The Photobucket change has left your pics high and dry.

I only see the Dial of Death.
 
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