fitz
Ambassador of DIY
I've decided to mod my empty 2266 Combo 212 into a vertical speaker cab.
Started with replacing the combo chassis access edge with a built-up face frame.

Going to move my 5100 out of the little stack of 1x12's.
These cabs were home builds made for a Class 5 - built to C110 specs, but with 12" speakers.

The converted 212 cab will have about 20% more total volume (internal space...) than the cabs designed for 10" speakers.

I'm reusing the combo baffle, 'cause it's already got the speaker holes and mounting bolts.
While debating in-line or offset speaker placement, I was staring at the offset layout and realized I could put in some Thiel style ports where I need to fill out the baffle anyway.

Some preliminary layouts with clearance for the relocated handles.
Sketching on the back panel with the heavy black lines approximating the front face frame and/or the back panel mounting cleats.

Going to try to adapt this to a removable rear load baffle that clears the back panel mounting cleats.
The port walls will stick out from the back of the baffle, but clear the cleats on the way in.
Started with replacing the combo chassis access edge with a built-up face frame.

Going to move my 5100 out of the little stack of 1x12's.
These cabs were home builds made for a Class 5 - built to C110 specs, but with 12" speakers.

The converted 212 cab will have about 20% more total volume (internal space...) than the cabs designed for 10" speakers.

I'm reusing the combo baffle, 'cause it's already got the speaker holes and mounting bolts.
While debating in-line or offset speaker placement, I was staring at the offset layout and realized I could put in some Thiel style ports where I need to fill out the baffle anyway.

Some preliminary layouts with clearance for the relocated handles.
Sketching on the back panel with the heavy black lines approximating the front face frame and/or the back panel mounting cleats.

Going to try to adapt this to a removable rear load baffle that clears the back panel mounting cleats.
The port walls will stick out from the back of the baffle, but clear the cleats on the way in.


















