Burstbucker 1 A5 magnet swap

Mr Grumpy said:
More than qualifies - that looks extremely loud and lovely!
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Thank you Mr Grumpy. Both are 50 Watters, the lower one a '68 spec, the upper one built as the Tim Caswell #39 mod circuit. I would have liked to do them as 100 Watters but have go be realistic. I wouldn't be able to use 100 Watts in the small venues we get to play. Even 50 watts, at times is too much really. When such volume constraints apply I just use the 1987 type (lower head) & use drive pedals. I much prefer the more natural "kranked amp" tones though. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
I much prefer the more natural "kranked amp" tones though.
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Yeah, I agree (in my limited experience; and not having yet cranked the DSL 5 other than in headphone mode and that sounded awful on the red channel). With the Randall RD1 which has plenty of OD to saturation, I had a lot of drive pedals and not many improved upon the amp sound although they could be used as a second channel if the gain was set low on the amp. I'm thinking the dsl5 might be similar, but already has 2 channels with a nice footswitch. Being a fool, I'm already thinking about a celestion greenback and maybe changing the V1 as you suggested in another thread, but lets play for another few weeks and make an informed decision...

This forum runs in trends, and just gasses everyone up; I wonder when this Marshall Trend will move onto everyone wanting/buying a Blues Junior or AC10. :confused:
 
Mr Grumpy said:
I'm already thinking about a celestion greenback and maybe changing the V1 as you suggested in another thread, but lets play for another few weeks and make an informed decision...:
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I think you are making a wise decision to play it as is for a few weeks, as you say, you could then make a more informed decision, knowing what you like about & what you would like to change (& "how" you would like to change it). A speaker change can really impact an amps sound, after all, they have the final say in our tone. For greenbacks I prefer the "Heritage" model over the (China?) G12M. Cheers
 
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ivan H said:
For greenbacks I prefer the "Heritage" model over the (China?) G12M
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If that's in 10" 16 ohm then that's the likely candidate.

Funinily enough, after playing around more, I am finding a similar pattern to the Bugera 5w; the highest wattage setting is best. I am currently doing blouesy stuff on the green channel, just with the volume on 2 or 3 on the 5w, and using the guitar volume/tone to keep the volume down (no tone shift or deep) - seems to be the best sound. I reckon getting rid of the top fizz with a speaker change would give me the last digit or so to use on the guitar volume (too fizzy currently on the red channel, imho). With a hotish P90 it works, probably wouldn't with a humbucker, and maybe not enough grit for my liking with a strat at these volumes on the green channel?
 
ivan H said:
I think you are making a wise decision to play it as is for a few weeks, as you say, you could then make a more informed decision, knowing what you like about & what you would like to change (& "how" you would like to change
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:iagree:
Mr Grumpy said:
I reckon getting rid of the top fizz with a speaker change would give me the last digit or so to use on the guitar volume (too fizzy currently on the red channel, imho).
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Just remember that most new speakers need some time to break in. How much time? I'm not sure, but Scumback Speakers offers a speaker break-in service that describes their break-in time as 20 hours with whatever tone generation technique that they use.

EDIT: Break-in time is longer than I estimated. More info:
Scumback Speakers & Cabs Factory Break In
 
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ivan H said:
I don't have a DSL, but have these
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Does that qualify. Actually homebuilds (except the greenback's over V30's 4x12) & the Metroamp Head Master Switcher that I use to switch between heads. Back to the subject of magnets, IIRC, I read something along the lines of, a magnet has no tone per se, it is how the magnet affect the inductance of the pickup that causes the change in tone, but @jtcnj is also right in that the different magnetic strength of the various alloys affect the strength (size?) of the signal generated. For simple devices, pickups have some pretty complex physics going on in the generation of our tones. @smitty_p, the 57 classic (or 57+) is another one I've thought of doing the A5 swap on, but haven't as yet. Cheers
Edit: Apology not needed smitty. Cheers
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Ivan 50 watt Marshall's Kill Sweet. I still play a 100 watt Marshall. One of the few original amps I own.

001 (5).JPG
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Since the question was asked about the 57's, I see the A2 is in the 57 Classic+ but it is slightly overwound and is spec'd at 8.3 while the regular 57 Classics are 7.5 SO, it would be an interesting answer.
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I'm looking at a Gibson Wildwood spec humbucker right now that's about 8.4k.
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
67, can you translate this please. Is there supposed to be a comma after Ivan and a period after Kill?

Or do you mean 50 watt Marshall's kill the sound of the band The Sweet? From some vids I saw, they were playing Sunn amps.
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I played 45 and 50 watt Marshall's for many years. They Kill sound wise. I'm talking 1964-1968 Marshall's. Looking at Ivan's work I bet he nailed it on his 50 builds.
 
syscokid said:
:iagree:

Just remember that most new speakers need some time to break in. How much time? I'm not sure, but Scumback Speakers offers a speaker break-in service that describes their break-in time as 20 hours with whatever tone generation technique that they use.

EDIT: Break-in time is longer than I estimated. More info:
Scumback Speakers & Cabs Factory Break In
Click to expand...

I was thinking of this break in thing yesterday. What's wrong with plugging in a R&R radio station signal and let it rip for many hours each day for a week when no one is home?
 
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