Appearance Question:

Ok, they are going to be hotter than the BK Nailbombs I put in Black on Wue which where 16K and 9K.

The only pickup hotter - that I have had experience with personally - is the Dommenget Musclebucker, which is around 20kΩ and is the pickup du jour for The Scorpions....
 
To serve as my backup #2, it needs a tone more output than those Epiphone pickups I installed in it....and I prefer the openness of an uncovered pickup...

Ahh.

I still think black.

I realize I’m probably the outlier here, but I’m not really a fan of cream bobbins. About the only guitar I think looks good with cream bobbins is a cherry burst Les Paul, a la Ace Frehley.

But, you have to go with what you like.
 
I generally dont much like gold hardware, except in certain instances.
This is one of them.
Keep the same look and gold covers on new pickups.
 
Thanks, Amigos...I really didn't want another guitar, but Mom has a thing for the family name on the headstock, and who can tell Mom no....
 
I'd hate to shield that!!!!
I did...
DSC06557_zpsb7skcyse.jpg

DSC06561_zpsrtuxk5mc.jpg

Continuity from one end to the other.
 
How did you accomplish that?
The contact with the switch and the pots to the foil?
I am really interested in this and just ordered some 22/4 shielded stranded wire to re do the switch run on my AXL LP that is still a bit noisy.

The shileding totally silenced my Gibson...dead quiet eve around cell phones, dimmers and florescent lighting...
 
As best as humanly possible. Long strips from the switch cavity to the neck / middle pickup cavity.
Same for the control cavity to the bridge / middle.

I cut long strips of copper, then fold back the paper backing, about 1/2" from the end and punch a hole in the backing with a hole punch. I run a piece of masking tape along the back of the paper backing, fold it over the folded end and the hole allows the two adhesive sides of the masking tape to touch and form a strong bond. I can then slide the tape into the switch channel, position it where I want, stick the end and pull the backing off. I have a small, square wood block that I drop in the switch channel and let it slide back and forth - as I tilt the body - to iron out the copper in the places where I cannot reach.

Final QC inspection is with a borescope...
 
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