'69 100 watt Superlead build

Be careful for what you wish for. If someone could translate the physical circuit of a DSL to PTP with its multi channel and multi voicing and all the other bells and whistles, the head cabinet alone would be at least a foot tall or two feet deep, and with about a couple miles of wire... :run:

Nutin tooooooooo it. Just common sense and lots of patience. It's calming...

Never thought of that....
 
Before fitting the potentiometers they were opened up & had their values carefully "doctored" to the following values;
Volume 1 & 2 pots, 1.3 Meg.
Treble pot, 330k.
Middle pot, 29k.
Bass pot, 1.1 Meg.
This is the first time I've heard of this. Why?

… in order that the filter caps can be properly formed/conditioned by "current limiting" them (100k resistor).
Valvestorm advertises the fact that the ARS caps are "Re-formed and ready to go". Did you already knew this but still went thru the process anyways?
 
Just to give an idea what Ivan built and this example looks like it needs a total rebuild.

1968 Marshall Super Lead 100 Watt Plexi Guitar Amplifier Hendrix Near mint 100% | eBay


Steve, HOW the heck can this seller say this amp is near mint? To me, Near MINT would essentially be UNUSED, Un altered like with haphazard cap and resistor and other items swapped in or added in due to use and failures of the originals and not with all manner of parts like aged and likely to be leaking Filter caps that will need replacing, etc.
 
This is the first time I've heard of this. Why?

Sysco, I believe Ivan has a particular feel and range of how his sound gets adjusted and he knows how to tweak the pots to act just right instead of just being stuck with em say coming to make sound once they hit 3 and not immediately after leaving 0, or in reverse, not barely lowering on the way from 10-0 but when they get to like 4 or 3,,,,,, the sound suddenly drops or hits 0 even before the pot does.

But I will let Ivan clarify his reasons and how he goes about it.
 
This is the first time I've heard of this. Why?


Valvestorm advertises the fact that the ARS caps are "Re-formed and ready to go". Did you already knew this but still went thru the process anyways?
Hi Sysco, regarding the pots, when the pots have been measured in 60s & 70's amps they are often markedly higher than their stated value, no doubt from decades of use. As the carbon track wears down its value increases. I believe that the "standard value" pots used in clone amps is one reason why, when people have done side by side clone vs real deal amp comparisons, they often say the clone is "close but no cigar". Of course there are other factors as well, but the pots are part of the circuit & so directly affect percievpe "grind" (volume pots) & tonal range & spread. You'll have to experiment to find your preferred values. CTS pots are by far the easiest pots to doctor up but go slowly, it's very easy to overshoot your intended value (ask me how I know this). You also need to try to preserve the pots "taper".
Robert at Valvestorm is a great guy to deal with & yes, his ARS filter caps have obviously been reformed at some time, but (1) at what voltage & (2) how long ago. You want them formed at the voltage they are going to be working at. I even do this with new electrolytics that have been "fast formed" at the factory. The ARS caps took 3 1/2 ~ 4 hours to get down to 4.5V drop across the limiting resistor.
Thanks for the compliment Plexi, & yes, NOS components are getting much harder to find. A couple of guys from the Metroamp forum helped out with some of the harder to find components. RS dogbone treble & treble peaking caps, 82k & 470k Iskras. Fake components are also a problem if one doesn't know what one is looking at, mustard caps being the most commonly faked items. The actual texture of the mustard material is an easy give away, the fakes are too smooth & the color is also a bit off. Best to source from the UK or "Commonwealth" countries where possible. A "black flag" build will pretty well deplete my stash of components & I won't be looking for more.
Chilli, some people obviously have a very different view of what "mint" means than what we do. Cheers
 
Well that is awesome, great clean work! Wish I had your skills!
Thanks RobV, much appreciated. Amp building is very rewarding & is something I encourage others to try. There a many quality kits available that suit first time builders & people here that will gladly help one through the build process should any questions arise. Cheees
 
Thanks RobV, much appreciated. Amp building is very rewarding & is something I encourage others to try. There a many quality kits available that suit first time builders & people here that will gladly help one through the build process should any questions arise. Cheees
Maybe one day but I need to focus on walking (playing them) before running (building dream amps) lol
 
Hi Sysco, regarding the ………….
Thanks for the interesting info on the pots. Are the pot values that you're matching come from a "Holy Grail" amp that you're trying to mimic?

Agree with you about reforming caps. Have you noticed if any other amp builders or parts suppliers are poo-pooing the F&T caps in favor of ARS caps? The two that I know of is Valvestorm and Fromel Electronics.
 
Thanks for the interesting info on the pots. Are the pot values that you're matching come from a "Holy Grail" amp that you're trying to mimic?

Agree with you about reforming caps. Have you noticed if any other amp builders or parts suppliers are poo-pooing the F&T caps in favor of ARS caps? The two that I know of is Valvestorm and Fromel Electronics.
I have looked at several posted "measured" pot values taken from old plexi's, some of which are higher than others. From there I've just experimented to find what I like. For example, when I rebuilt my 4 hole 50 watter the treble pot value was at first not made so high as this one, but I have since re-opened the pot & increased its value to around 315k & liked it better. I have tried the often suggested 50k middle pot value, but found it a bit too much, preferring around 30k. Thinking about it, the controls that get used most will have pot values that are higher reading (above nominal value) than lesser used controls, so it's not surprising that it's the volumes & treble that read highest.
I've read where people think the F&T caps have an effect on how the amp "feels", making it somewhat stiffer than the old Hunts/Errie or LCR caps, but I've used them & will again. My 4 hole 50 watter has all 32uf F&T filter caps & I'm happy with it.
I know that when Sozo were supplying their Royalle Blue filter caps people thought they were the bee's knees & a pretty faithful recreation of the old 100uf/350V electrolytic's. The fact is they were simply a commonly available photoflash capacitor re-branded. Cheers
 
I'm with you Ivan F & T I use for repairs but not on personal builds. I don't trust Sozo the first mustard caps were just re branded Mallory 150's
and the silver mica are 1KV CDE A Sozo will never sound like a Mullard. As an example on pot or control values that is the mojo
Look at ODS #183 100 watt EL34 I'm not sure of the term I call it load line

183ver11.jpg
 
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