'69 100 watt Superlead build

Sysco, Ivan and neikeel taught me about uf diodes with respect to the bridge rectifier in my 50 watt repairing discussion we had as I was diagnosing why it was acting up and how to put it back as it should be with screen grid resistors, a properly connected wire and even removing snubber caps that I really didn't need.

NOW, as soon as I go and buy a 100 watt Marsh, he tells me he was in the midst of his very own 100 watt build from scratch. What a masterpiece of a build it is too. I could just stare at it for hours.
 
Amazing stuff, Ivan.

The board is lucky to have you as a member. Enjoy that fantastic amp - and where do you play it that you can turn it up...
 
Mr Grumpy said:
Yeah, but with that monster he'll need to be in the Northern Territories many KMs away from major towns... Even then, he may bring down a couple of cattle herding helicopters...
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Also, once I got mine, and found out he was building his, we decided that we now had enough in our 2 amps to play so we could hear one another from East Coast USA to Australia and back. Good thing I got the extra 4x12 cab to go with my Marshall 1960A to have twice the speaker output pointed his way.
 
Robert Herndon said:
I wish I could do that kind of work!
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I bet you could. But it will consume you. You'll be traveling into another beautiful universe... :victoire: Especially with the amount of detail that you have shown us with your other adventures. Great way to start is with a simple amp kit by either Mojotone, StewMac, or Allen Amps. They all come with great quality parts, and detailed instructions, and quick support. You also got us monkeys here at TTR for support, too.
 
syscokid said:
I bet you could. But it will consume you. You'll be traveling into another beautiful universe... :victoire: Especially with the amount of detail that you have shown us with your other adventures. Great way to start is with a simple amp kit by either Mojotone, StewMac, or Allen Amps. They all come with great quality parts, and detailed instructions, and quick support. You also got us monkeys here at TTR for support, too.
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That rabbit hole appears quite deep....
 
Robert Herndon said:
That rabbit hole appears quite deep....
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But it's therapeutic, man! And when you finally complete the build, and assuming everything is assembled properly, you'll feel like Dr. Frederick Frankenstein, which is pronounced as "Frankensteen"...

 
syscokid said:
But it's therapeutic, man! And when you finally complete the build, and assuming everything is assembled properly, you'll feel like Dr. Frederick Frankenstein, which is pronounced as "Frankensteen"...

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I just wish the DSL40C'S were point to point. I'm scared to mod a PCB.
 
Robert. As I discussed my own future need to do solder work on PCBs with BlackSG, I mentioned the way to get good at it is through practice on sacrificial junk PCBs. There is an excellent YouTube video on my computer which shows how to do PCB soldering beautifully. When I get on the laptop, I will post it.


 
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syscokid said:
Have you used the FREDs before? Any difference? And I still don't know what "switching hash" means...…..?
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I haven't used FREDs, just the UF types. Switching hash is the RFI generated when the diode switches from "on" to "off" (conducting to not conducting). Even though diode technologies have advanced, normal slow recovery devices like the 1N4xxx diode types can still produce "hash". Schottky, FR, SF & UF type devices perform much better in this regard. I'm sure our resident electronics genius DonP could offer far more on this subject.
Thanks for the compliment Mr Grumpy. I value the input of all members of this fine forum.
I'm working on a B cab so I can jam with Chilli across the waves.
I currently live in a residential area of a town of about 62,000, so using this, or even a 50 watter at hope is just not on. I'd get house bricks thrown on the roof & the cops called, without doubt. We rehearse about 10km (6 miles) out of town so volume isn't a problem there.
A "non master volume" type 50 watter can even be too much amp for some gigs though, so I've just bought a Weber Mass 200 attenuator for such occasions. We do sometimes get gigs in outlying country areas though, where I should be able to let this one loose (rednecks like it loud).
Robert, I'm confident that an amp project is something you could accomplish (as could many others here). A smaller (quality) kit type would be a good place to start. There are many out there that have good "step by step" construction manuals. TBTH, I'm also apprehensive of modding modern PCB type amps. Cheers
 
Robert Herndon said:
I just wish the DSL40C'S were point to point.
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Be careful for what you wish for. If someone could translate the physical circuit of a DSL to PTP with its multi channel and multi voicing and all the other bells and whistles, the head cabinet alone would be at least a foot tall or two feet deep, and with about a couple miles of wire... :run:
Robert Herndon said:
I'm scared to mod a PCB.
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Nutin tooooooooo it. Just common sense and lots of patience. It's calming...
 
ivan H said:
I haven't used FREDs, just the UF types. Switching hash is the RFI generated when the diode switches from "on" to "off" (conducting to not conducting). Even though diode technologies have advanced, normal slow recovery devices like the 1N4xxx diode types can still produce "hash". Schottky, FR, SF & UF type devices perform much better in this regard. I'm sure our resident electronics genius DonP could offer far more on this subject.
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OK... F the FRED's! This subject always lacked conclusive evidence, and not a whole helluva lot of support behind it. I wish I was capable of building, on a tiny circuit board, 2 separated diode rectifier circuits and put them on a switch (high voltage) so I can A-B them. I still have those old FREDs tucked away... :hmmm:

ivan H said:
The tag board is not "period correct", rather an FR4 fibreglass item that I turreted up myself. I could have used phenolic material but have heard of people experiencing "leakage" with some currently available phenolic boards & didn't want to risk it. I think this stuff looks reasonable.
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This is a good choice. "Vintage correct" has its limits sometimes. Besides, I just love a black turret board... :yesway:

ivan H said:
Pre amp tubes are all NOS. V1 is an RTC branded Mullard Blackburn 163 series ECC83. V2 is a Brimar CV4004 (box plate) 12AX7 & V3 is another RTC branded Mullard 163 series ECC83.
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You must have had to dig deep for those... Nice :)
 
ivan H said:
I'm working on a B cab so I can jam with Chilli across the waves.
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I just finished my Eminence Redcoat Governor 16 Ohm speaker redux to install back in the orange tolex, Behringer Stereo 4x12 cab they came in.
I was toying with a straight up Series Parallel and one single jack setup to make the cab a fixed 16 ohm. But instead decided to use the existing OEM Stereo/Mono jack with stereo/mono switch and 2 jacks to be 16 or 8 ohm. The main hard part is this is a front loading cab and my decision to make new wires with plug ends instead of soldering to the speakers and jacks makes the install much easier.

I will be waiting, Mr Ivan.
 
ivan H said:
I haven't used FREDs, just the UF types. Switching hash is the RFI generated when the diode switches from "on" to "off" (conducting to not conducting). Even though diode technologies have advanced, normal slow recovery devices like the 1N4xxx diode types can still produce "hash". Schottky, FR, SF & UF type devices perform much better in this regard. I'm sure our resident electronics genius DonP could offer far more on this subject.
Thanks for the compliment Mr Grumpy. I value the input of all members of this fine forum.
I'm working on a B cab so I can jam with Chilli across the waves.
I currently live in a residential area of a town of about 62,000, so using this, or even a 50 watter at hope is just not on. I'd get house bricks thrown on the roof & the cops called, without doubt. We rehearse about 10km (6 miles) out of town so volume isn't a problem there.
A "non master volume" type 50 watter can even be too much amp for some gigs though, so I've just bought a Weber Mass 200 attenuator for such occasions. We do sometimes get gigs in outlying country areas though, where I should be able to let this one loose (rednecks like it loud).
Robert, I'm confident that an amp project is something you could accomplish (as could many others here). A smaller (quality) kit type would be a good place to start. There are many out there that have good "step by step" construction manuals. TBTH, I'm also apprehensive of modding modern PCB type amps. Cheers
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Thanks for the vote of confidence!

There is so much to digest on the DSL40C mods...and I would really have to be sure of what I was doing before embarking on the project.
 
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