I totally agree with all of this, with exception to the part about most NOS tubes being fake & just old pulls that still test good.I know there is major differences between 12AX7s.
Some of them have a major advantage over others and produce a night and day affect.
Some are clean, some are wildly over-powered.
Most "NOS" tubes are fake. These are just old used tubes that "test" good.
And so it's not really a fair comparison to test old / used / pulled from other amps, etc.
But rather you need to start on a more level playing field....
True, true, true... But despite the audio limits of YouTube, you can still hear some worthwhile differences between the different tubes in Pete's video. I think that Brimar was my favorite of all of them.I didn't bother to watch the the shoot-out clip, I don't think it's possible to get a true representation of how each tube sounds in a YouTube video clip.
Dude! This is better than Viagra! How long ago did you start getting into the vintage tubes? I think just about all those tubes you named are at least $200 on up if you can locate any?I didn't bother to watch the the shoot-out clip, I don't think it's possible to get a true representation of how each tube sounds in a YouTube video clip.
That said, we all know that the different ECC83/12AX7 types all have their own characteristic "sound," whether we like them or not in a particular amp pretty much comes down to personal preference.
I have (NOS) Mullard, Brimar, Amperex, RCA, GE (both GE & JAN GE), Super Radiotron (Aussie made RCA), Sylvania, Aussie made Philips Miniwatt (Mullard tooling & material stock) & probably more, & different "types" of many of them.
All but one of my 4 hole Marshall type amps have a Blackburn Mullard 163 series (ribbed grey plates) in V1 & V3 (some V2 as well). Hard to beat these for that classic Marshall sound, they just deliver that big aggressive sound. I do like a Brimar CV4004 box plate type in V2 & have this tube in my '69 superlead & '68 JMP50 type amps in that position. Seems to give the overdrive sound a crunchy, gritty characteristic & delivers good highs without getting shrill or pearcing. The Philips Miniwatt also sound great in all positions of these amps. I have a "red tipped" Amperex Bugle Boy (slated for V1 in an upcoming '68 JMP50 build) that I tried in my similar amp. Really good sounding tube. Doesn't have the heavy mids of the Mullards, very rich open sound with great clarity & detail right across the frequency range. I'd like more of these.
My 2204/ Caswell #39 has Sylvania's in all positions. It did have a GE in V1 but a Sylvania 7025 knocked it out of there.
Again, it comes down to personal preference. Cheers
Me thinks this is an excellent suggestion! I wish Pete would have been able to include a Genelex in the mix.B759 Genelex Gold Lions
True, true, true... But despite the audio limits of YouTube, you can still hear some worthwhile differences between the different tubes in Pete's video. I think that Brimar was my favorite of all of them.
Dude! This is better than Viagra! How long ago did you start getting into the vintage tubes? I think just about all those tubes you named are at least $200 on up if you can locate any?
V1 is of importance in any amp, as along with the sonic characteristics, any noise, heater induced hum, microphonics etc here is all passed on down the line to be further amplified. Ever found that a tube that is noisey or microphonic in the V1 position can be just fine if placed further along in the signal chain?Trouble is so many tubes and so many spots to put them in. I pay the most attention to V1 in the cascading amps, obviously. The lower gain Marshalls do like Mullards.
Right. The 6101 uses different tubes for different channels so for example V1 in that amp is strictly clean channel, whoch I do not care. V2 becomes the first gain stage for channel 2 and I thjnk it's V3? that is the first one for channel 3. So quieter tubes where possible cause, yeah, I don't want to pass that noise further on.V1 is of importance in any amp, as along with the sonic characteristics, any noise, heater induced hum, microphonics etc here is all passed on down the line to be further amplified. Ever found that a tube that is noisey or microphonic in the V1 position can be just fine if placed further along in the signal chain?
With the low gain Marshall (4 holer) type amps, V2a is, IMO almost equally important as V1, as it is the first tube that is being overdriven by the preceding stage, so has an impact on the overdrive characteristics. I mean, how often do we play these amps "clean". Cheers