NG Project!

Nice projects Ray, looking good.
Might as well do 2 at a time, especially the rounds of finishes.

2 things come to mind: the doublemint twins, and Ron Wood:

joan-and-jayne-the-doublemint-twins-double-your-pleasure-vocal-4.jpg


52317561
 
Hey Ray...does one of the necks have an ebony fret board & the other rosewood? It looks like it from the photos.:hmmm:


;>)/
 
RVA said:
Thanks. I have been applying it very light with different cotton cloths. I did one coat 4 hours after the other and even sanded between coats. Recommended dry time is 2-4 hours. It seemed OK and I have read of other doing this. Do you think this is imprudent?
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I don't know... :hmmm:

When I researched Tru Oil application, I chose a finishing schedule that allows only one coat per day. Also, the directions of the bottle of Tru Oil also states that it could take 24 hours per coat, depending on the conditions.
 
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syscokid said:
I don't know... :hmmm:

When I researched Tru Oil application, I chose a finishing schedule that allows only one coat per day. Also, the directions of the bottle of Tru Oil also states that it could take 24 hours per coat, depending on the conditions.
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Well, allow me to be the test run once again! I now realize tht it was "them", the colloective on the internet, that said 2-4 hours and that I did not read the instructions. It it has been fine after 4 hours of drying time when applying thin coats, with no clouding upon sanding. Also, since I will not be buffing to a gloss, I already get the sense that has more than enough coats at present. However, the bodies will not be here for another 7-10 days, so I will keep applying coats for another few days.

Although I am told it takes 7 days to fully cure, I do not think this is necessary to slap it on a guitar and play it, but only if you want to buff it to a gloss.
 
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RVA said:
Although I am told it takes 7 days to fully cure, I do not think this is necessary to slap it on a guitar and play it, but only if you want to buff it to a gloss.
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Be patient my Son...

I think that oil takes longer to cure than nitro. Even though you are putting on thin coats, the more coats you put on - the longer the oil finish is going to need for curing. Proper curing is going to hold up better to the pressures being applied by all the hardware that you plan on mounting. Also, more resilient to your body funk, like sweat, oils, saliva, boogers...
 
syscokid said:
Be patient my Son...

I think that oil takes longer to cure than nitro. Even though you are putting on thin coats, the more coats you put on - the longer the oil finish is going to need for curing. Proper curing is going to hold up better to the pressures being applied by all the hardware that you plan on mounting. Also, more resilient to your body funk, like sweat, oils, saliva, boogers...
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My playing is pretty funky!

Very good advice. The necks will not go on for at least 10 days, so I will stop applying in another 2 days. Thanks
 
A true oil tip I found in a commentary to a Youtube video for a high gloss finish
--------------------
I've been a Professional Restoration, Finishing & Painting Contractor since 1980, the Summer I Graduated High School. I used to help my Dad & Grandad from 12 years old onwards and I've used just about every kind of Coating there is. I'd like to make a few suggestions to help you. First use VM&P Napthia (Varnish Makers & Painters) instead of Mineral Spirits. (Paint Thinner) Napthia is also known as Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol or Zippo, Coleman Camping Fuel or White Gas (not Gasoline) but VM&P is the best because it's a little cleaner/higher grade. VM&P Napthia will mix in better, your Tru-Oil will set (tack) up quicker, dry faster and cure out a little harder plus being a much higher grade Solvent than Mineral Spirits it will increase the shine. Always measure and stir it in (don't whip, it'll add air bubbles) whatever Solvent you use to thin the Finish you're using. This way you can easily replicate it and you'll have consistently from batch to batch. Try 3 Tablespoons of Tru-Oil & 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. If that's too thick add another 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. Keep adding VM&P 1/2 at the time until you've got the desired viscosity. Once you've got your ratios down you can replicate the excact same formula over and and your finish will be perfect and consistent. You can make larger batches by using a Shot Glass in the same ratio. If You have a some Baby Food Jars with a good Rubber Seal in their lids. You can mix up a jar full at the time if you have 2-3 Guitars to finish. Even if you don't mix a jar full you can keep your leftovers in a Baby Food Jar. Also it's really best to use your thinned Tru-Oil for your First Coat because it will Soak in and Penetrate Deeper. This will Bond & Seal your Wood better. It won't hurt to use your thinned Tru-Oil for all your Coats, you may find you like this better. The Best Sealer is Zinsser Seal-Coat. It's a 100% wax free Shellac compable under all Clear Finishes, even Hot Solvent Finishes like Lacquer and 2 part Epoxies and Alphatic Urethane. If you Seal your Wood with Zinsser Seal-Coat Your Tru-Oil, Polyurethane, Lacquer, etc. will have greater "Enamel Holdout" (higher gloss/sheen) plus all your Top Coats lay down and smooth out better. Lastly put a little Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue on the little Cardboard/Paper Seal that comes in your Tru-Oil's Top to keep it in place and store it upside down. This will keep it Fresh longer and if it Skins or Scabs over this Will be on the bottom when you turn it right side up. Hope this Helps you. look for Jimmy Reaves (no picture) on Facebook. I'll send you my email and help you all I can.
 
The dude knows a lot about naphtha, except for how to spell it.

That, of course, doesn't invalidate his advice, but every time I read, "napthia" I felt like I got a speck of dust in my eye!

He also seems to have developed some creative capitalization rules!
 
RVA said:
A true oil tip I found in a commentary to a Youtube video for a high gloss finish
--------------------
I've been a Professional Restoration, Finishing & Painting Contractor since 1980, the Summer I Graduated High School. I used to help my Dad & Grandad from 12 years old onwards and I've used just about every kind of Coating there is. I'd like to make a few suggestions to help you. First use VM&P Napthia (Varnish Makers & Painters) instead of Mineral Spirits. (Paint Thinner) Napthia is also known as Lighter Fluid such as Ronsonol or Zippo, Coleman Camping Fuel or White Gas (not Gasoline) but VM&P is the best because it's a little cleaner/higher grade. VM&P Napthia will mix in better, your Tru-Oil will set (tack) up quicker, dry faster and cure out a little harder plus being a much higher grade Solvent than Mineral Spirits it will increase the shine. Always measure and stir it in (don't whip, it'll add air bubbles) whatever Solvent you use to thin the Finish you're using. This way you can easily replicate it and you'll have consistently from batch to batch. Try 3 Tablespoons of Tru-Oil & 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. If that's too thick add another 1/2 Tablespoon of VM&P. Keep adding VM&P 1/2 at the time until you've got the desired viscosity. Once you've got your ratios down you can replicate the excact same formula over and and your finish will be perfect and consistent. You can make larger batches by using a Shot Glass in the same ratio. If You have a some Baby Food Jars with a good Rubber Seal in their lids. You can mix up a jar full at the time if you have 2-3 Guitars to finish. Even if you don't mix a jar full you can keep your leftovers in a Baby Food Jar. Also it's really best to use your thinned Tru-Oil for your First Coat because it will Soak in and Penetrate Deeper. This will Bond & Seal your Wood better. It won't hurt to use your thinned Tru-Oil for all your Coats, you may find you like this better. The Best Sealer is Zinsser Seal-Coat. It's a 100% wax free Shellac compable under all Clear Finishes, even Hot Solvent Finishes like Lacquer and 2 part Epoxies and Alphatic Urethane. If you Seal your Wood with Zinsser Seal-Coat Your Tru-Oil, Polyurethane, Lacquer, etc. will have greater "Enamel Holdout" (higher gloss/sheen) plus all your Top Coats lay down and smooth out better. Lastly put a little Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue on the little Cardboard/Paper Seal that comes in your Tru-Oil's Top to keep it in place and store it upside down. This will keep it Fresh longer and if it Skins or Scabs over this Will be on the bottom when you turn it right side up. Hope this Helps you. look for Jimmy Reaves (no picture) on Facebook. I'll send you my email and help you all I can.
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This is F'n awesome. I want to try this technique. I still have a little bit of Tru Oil left.

RVA said:
The builder is doing some fine thngs this weekend!!!
Click to expand...

Did you apply the same technique here? Whatever you did here, looks excellent... :yesway:
 
syscokid said:
This is F'n awesome. I want to try this technique. I still have a little bit of Tru Oil left.

Did you apply the same technique here? Whatever you did here, looks excellent... :yesway:
Click to expand...
I want to also, at least for the last coat or 2, but is that a good idea for a neck? I usually scuff a poly finish to make it a bit faster, and the tru oil as it is now certainly does the trick. Do you think that this technique would make the feel "sticky" when sliding?
 
RVA said:
Do you think that this technique would make the feel "sticky" when sliding?
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I have no idea. I was thinking of trying it with one of two guitars of mine that I have finished in Tru Oil already, but with a very thin and satin to semi-gloss sheen. But which one should I do? Or, start a new addition to the arsenal? ... UGH!!!!!!! Maybe I should just dump a big bucket of cold water over my head!
 
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