Fixing Broken USA 1989 STRAT Neck Truss Rod

Sticker T Rod Anchor.jpg

If I were to weld the anchor to the T rod and make it a 1 piece unit, I could not re-install it in my neck as it sits. I would have to router out the skunk stripe and drill out the dot marker at 7th fret to unscrew the rod retainer, and then install everything through the back and into the head stock, then make and shape and refinish a new skunk stripe. TOO much hassle.

My aim is to simply drop my drilled and tapped anchor into the hole in the neck, run the rod thru the hole in head stock and then secure the rod to the anchor with a set screw. Done deal and no skunk stripe repair.
 
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Anchor Easy Out Rod End1.jpg

Here is how I easy outted the nub of the rod end stuck inside the anchor. I am showing how the end of the rod is smooth and not threaded here. Because it was smooth and not threaded, I actually removed the easy out from the nub, then used a punch to drive it out the far side of the hole after drilling the big perpendicular hole to eat away and weaken how the rod was held fast within the anchor by essentially a square peg in a round hole situation.
 
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Just an FYI, You can weld aluminum or steel with TiG simply by changing the electrode....but looks like you got it!!!!
 
Robert Herndon said:
Just an FYI, You can weld aluminum or steel with TiG simply by changing the electrode....but looks like you got it!!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks, Robert. I did not know that. I guess I only knew how to weld steel with Arc or Mig,,,,,,,,,,,, But I don't own a tig so I never knew one could weld steel with one.

Good to know. GOOD to KNOWWWWW
 
smitty_p said:
Chili,
I understand, now.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Do I need more or are the pictures pretty clear as to how I figured out the damage, disassembled the T rod System and the process I intend to use to re-assemble the new T rod? Is my modification to the anchor to secure the new rod and use a set screw to secure the rod in the old anchor clear as well?
 
chilipeppermaniac said:
Do I need more or are the pictures pretty clear as to how I figured out the damage, disassembled the T rod System and the process I intend to use to re-assemble the new T rod? Is my modification to the anchor to secure the new rod and use a set screw to secure the rod in the old anchor clear as well?
Click to expand...

No. I just brain-farted and wasn’t thinking about the fact that you want to reinsert the rod, without removing the skunk stripe.

It’s still kind of too bad you don’t have enough clearance after you slide the rod back in to zap it with a welder.

Otherwise, I’d still be a little concerned about it eventually working loose.
 
Smitty, from the seemingly only friction fit square peg in a round hole method Fender used to secure the rod from spinning and or backing out, this was strong enough that a "tight" T rod nut was able to cause the rod to sheer off. My intention of inserting the rod in the anchor, having drilled a recess in the rod for the set screw to do a male/female jam tight anti spin fit, plus loctite on set screw, I am confident nothing should move.
 
Nice detailing on an interesting dilemma chili. Hope this works out.

A tig set up for steel can be run on a DC stick machine and is quite common.
Mine is the plain old Lincoln tombstone type deal; the DC version.

Its been a few years; I am itching to be under the hood again!!
 
LOL JT. JT, My neck is almost repaired. Today I will drill and tap the anchor and likely slide the T rod into the anchor into final position and just run the drill bit through the hole to recess it slightly for when the set screwis tightened against it to prevent it from turning.

As a novice welder, I am so happy my expert friend Bruce showed me some of the ropes. I have used his 2 Migs and bought my own Lincoln Mig. A friend also gave me a super old Marquette Arc welder.

Marquette_180_Welder_02.jpg
 
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Ok, it has been a little while now since I have been able to devote any time to my Strat Truss rod.
I finally went to Home Depot to buy a pair of set screws. They happen to be 1/4 x20 x 7/16 long and 1/2 inch long ones just in case. Upon returning home, I drilled a hole through the anchor and then carefully tapped the hole to accept the set screw.

Once tapped, I threaded the screw part way in and then slid the rod into the anchor like it would go once in the neck.
Then I tightened down the set screw lightly in order to see it snug down and hold the rod tight enough to loosen the nut by hand.

My next task I will do tomorrow is to cut the rod to length, take a round file to file a recess spot in the rod and then the T rod will be ready to reinstall in the neck. Once the rod is inserted, I will need to put some loctite on the set screw and tighten it down nice and tight and then that phase of the repair will be complete.

The next phase of the repair will be to put the washers and nut on the new rod, insert, glue and shape the new walnut plug and finally glue in a few small bits of rosewood behind the nut that chipped off while drilling out the plug.
 
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