OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Fixing Broken USA 1989 STRAT Neck Truss Rod
- Thread starter chilipeppermaniac
- Start date
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Goo, that is not me,,,,,,,,, but a site I found and will be duplicating his process.
jtcnj
Ambassador of the Crossroad
Nice, and great info!
Good to hear this is turning out well.
here is a pic from his shop / site about fret leveling. Look how big that dent is. I wouldn't have thought that could be fret leveled out because it would just take off too much of the the rest of the frets.
I think I would replace a few if that bad and then fret level.
Good to hear this is turning out well.
here is a pic from his shop / site about fret leveling. Look how big that dent is. I wouldn't have thought that could be fret leveled out because it would just take off too much of the the rest of the frets.
I think I would replace a few if that bad and then fret level.
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
That is nasty, JT DAyum
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
OK, I got my T rod cut to length, deburred the end, drilled a recess into the edge of the rod, and short of loctite and a few other items to finish, I am almost ready to put the rod back in the neck.
Until I get pics taken and uploaded, I would like to post this source of info regarding Loctite types and their recommended uses
The Difference Between Red, Blue, Green and Purple Threadlockers - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog
Until I get pics taken and uploaded, I would like to post this source of info regarding Loctite types and their recommended uses
The Difference Between Red, Blue, Green and Purple Threadlockers - Henkel Adhesive Technologies Blog
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
JT, I knew about all 4, but only have used Blue like for rifle scope rings and other home uses.
I knew Red was for engines, but was not privy to the recommended uses of green and purple.
Won't be long till my neck is back to 100%. From here on, the rod reassembly will be the easy part.
The wood plug and teeney rosewood repair behind the nut will be the tedious and meticulous tasks before it is complete.
I knew Red was for engines, but was not privy to the recommended uses of green and purple.
Won't be long till my neck is back to 100%. From here on, the rod reassembly will be the easy part.
The wood plug and teeney rosewood repair behind the nut will be the tedious and meticulous tasks before it is complete.
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Ok update is, the new T rod is inserted in the neck including the washer number 1, then the T nut. Next ,I have to shape the walnut plug and put the next washer in before gluing the plug in for good.
I am soooooooooooo happy the Truss rod came out and went back in and will be ready for neck adjustments and playing on the guitar real soon.
I am soooooooooooo happy the Truss rod came out and went back in and will be ready for neck adjustments and playing on the guitar real soon.
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Thanks guys for the "likes" above.
For anyone interested, the way I got the new rod into the neck and in the final position went as planned.
First, I used Blue Loctite on my old T Rod and attached a #10x32 thread per inch x 1 inch coupling nut onto the threaded part of the old rod. Let it set up and then screwed the " New T Rod into the other end of the coupling nut leaving me with essentially a double length T rod.
Then it was time to insert the good new T rod into the neck, press it fully into the recessed cup where the anchor gets inserted and check that the little divot I drilled in the rod was facing straight out the hole perpendicular to the length of the neck. I made this dimple so it would essentially prevent the rod from turning once I insert the anchor, push the rod into it fully and then screw in the set screw that will prevent the rod from turning while the T nut is loosened or tightened to adjust the neck. After getting the T Rod in the neck to within an inch or so away from the anchor, I backed off the old T Rod and nut to expose the threads on the new rod. Then I installed the 1st washer and then the new T Nut part way tight. Then using the old T Rod with the nut on the end I put them nut to nut and hammered lightly to drive the new rod to the final place in the anchor and finally tightening the set screw to retain the new rod permanently.
To ensure this, I will squirt some loctite into the anchor then put some on the set screw and tighten it all down fully. Then I will snug up the T Nut into position to where I am ready to insert the walnut plug and shape it.
To Be Cont. SOOOO Glad the Rod is all back in and essentially ready to function.
For anyone interested, the way I got the new rod into the neck and in the final position went as planned.
First, I used Blue Loctite on my old T Rod and attached a #10x32 thread per inch x 1 inch coupling nut onto the threaded part of the old rod. Let it set up and then screwed the " New T Rod into the other end of the coupling nut leaving me with essentially a double length T rod.
Then it was time to insert the good new T rod into the neck, press it fully into the recessed cup where the anchor gets inserted and check that the little divot I drilled in the rod was facing straight out the hole perpendicular to the length of the neck. I made this dimple so it would essentially prevent the rod from turning once I insert the anchor, push the rod into it fully and then screw in the set screw that will prevent the rod from turning while the T nut is loosened or tightened to adjust the neck. After getting the T Rod in the neck to within an inch or so away from the anchor, I backed off the old T Rod and nut to expose the threads on the new rod. Then I installed the 1st washer and then the new T Nut part way tight. Then using the old T Rod with the nut on the end I put them nut to nut and hammered lightly to drive the new rod to the final place in the anchor and finally tightening the set screw to retain the new rod permanently.
To ensure this, I will squirt some loctite into the anchor then put some on the set screw and tighten it all down fully. Then I will snug up the T Nut into position to where I am ready to insert the walnut plug and shape it.
To Be Cont. SOOOO Glad the Rod is all back in and essentially ready to function.
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I thought you were making a dope pipe.
Nice work! That's a lot of labor!
Nice, and great info!
Good to hear this is turning out well.
here is a pic from his shop / site about fret leveling. Look how big that dent is. I wouldn't have thought that could be fret leveled out because it would just take off too much of the the rest of the frets.
I think I would replace a few if that bad and then fret level.
My frets are leveled on my 1987 Stratocaster down to about .037" off the board....It's amazing how far they can be gone and still be brought back...These were not dented, but they were flattened on top and wavy.
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Gee whiz, man, I fret level everything now!!!!
My Ibanez Destroyer shown here...
My Ibanez Destroyer shown here...
You can blame RVA for getting me started on the insanity of fret leveling...
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
There is more labor in photographing and uploading pics of the process than there is actual work on the neck.
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
I just glued in the 2 chips of rosewood that broke off behind the nut just above the hole the walnut plug goes in. This area got damaged when I had to drill out the plug before extracting the old rod.
Once the glue dries I will sand the rosewood repair smooth and hope for nearly invisible,. Then that will leave me with shaping and gluing in the plug, installing a new nut, reinstalling the tuners, string trees and reattaching the neck for strings and neck adjustment.
Once the glue dries I will sand the rosewood repair smooth and hope for nearly invisible,. Then that will leave me with shaping and gluing in the plug, installing a new nut, reinstalling the tuners, string trees and reattaching the neck for strings and neck adjustment.