Guitar Pots: Linear or Analog Taper

Guitar Pots: Analog or Linear Taper

  • Analog Taper

    Votes: 6 85.7%
  • Linear Taper

    Votes: 1 14.3%

  • Total voters
    7
It doesn't look too bad, I've seen a lot worse.
I have a question. When you guys have changed pups, do you leave the full length of wire that come with the pup or do you trim some length for a neater install?
 
I have a question. When you guys have changed pups, do you leave the full length of wire that come with the pup or do you trim some length for a neater install?
I never cut them short. I'll coil up the excess under the pickup in the route, or sometimes if the route is too shallow it'll cause the pickup to tilt and in that case I'll loop it around in the control cavity. If it was a guitar that I knew I'd never change the pickups in then maybe I'd cut them to length for neatness, but that has yet to happen.
 
I prefer audio (analog) taper. There's something "human" about it which I haven't words to elaborate...
not that I can't instantly adjust, it just a preference is all.
 
I never cut them short. I'll coil up the excess under the pickup in the route, or sometimes if the route is too shallow it'll cause the pickup to tilt and in that case I'll loop it around in the control cavity. If it was a guitar that I knew I'd never change the pickups in then maybe I'd cut them to length for neatness, but that has yet to happen.
The few I’ve changed, that’s the way I've done it. But on the Strat I ended up with quite a wad of wires that had to be routed just perfectly for the pick guard to screw down flat. And leaving them long for all your reasons makes sense. Was just wondering out loud.
 
Caps are another thing. People say it doesn't matter what type they are, but I absolutely hear a difference. I hate paper in oil caps, they're dark and blah. I've experimented a lot with caps, I like orange drops and I don't care what anybody says. If it's all in my head so be it...but it's not. :grin:
I bet you can’t hear the difference between a $4 orange cap and a $75 bumblebee cap?
 
I like this ones. These potentiometers is between a standard logarithmic and linear pots. Logarithmic 30% linear 70%. I installed on a '12 LP Standard.

Usually I used logarithmic ones on vol pots and linear ones on tone pots.
 
I have a question. When you guys have changed pups, do you leave the full length of wire that come with the pup or do you trim some length for a neater install?
I've never cut my leads down. If I have room, sometimes I'll pull the excess up into the pickup cavity to ease the congestion in the electronics area.
 
I have a question. When you guys have changed pups, do you leave the full length of wire that come with the pup or do you trim some length for a neater install?
Yes, trimming the wires to the proper length is the professional way to rewire, cramming wads of extra wire into the cavity is the amateur way.
 
Yes, trimming the wires to the proper length is the professional way to rewire, cramming wads of extra wire into the cavity is the amateur way.
except when you know you're going to swap them out at some point, then you're limited. And trying to sell pickups with cut leads is a bit tougher to do.
 
except when you know you're going to swap them out at some point, then you're limited. And trying to sell pickups with cut leads is a bit tougher to do.
I’ve attached new leads to pickups a thousand times at least. The professional way is to trim the leads to proper length and have a clean and concise wiring layout inside your guitar.
 
Until someone pays me to put their pickups in, I'm an Amateur. And this Amateur never cuts the leads...
 
My tone pot is 250k. The cap is about half-strength so things don't get so dark like stock.

I have some 50k linear pots that control volume and mid-boost. There's a IC on the board. Long cables are no issue.

I wanted to ground OverKill style. Pretty much anything that could logically be grounded, is. Spaghetti for all!

Back in 89, Mr Peter Frampton was kind enough to autograph the back of the headstock. Along with a nice compliment about my Charvel M5.
I was pushing it to ask if he would also sign the back of my business card. He sure did.

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Ummm, your poll is flawed, you need both.
One is best for volume and the other is for tone.
I sussed it out last year but right now I forget which is which.
Will report back later.

They say audio for volume and linear for tone. I personally like linear for volume and don't really care either way about the tone.

Edit: Just realized this is an old thread and I see where I said basically the same thing 2 years ago. I'm glad I didn't contradict myself, it happens sometimes. :ROFLMAO:
 
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They say audio for volume and linear for tone. I personally like linear for volume and don't really care either way about the tone.

Edit: Just realized this is an old thread and I see where I said basically the same thing 2 years ago. I'm glad I didn't contradict myself, it happens sometimes. :ROFLMAO:
Litmus test for Sincerity.
 
Typically log pots ('audio taper') are used for volume and linear for tone. Note that there are (or were) multiple audio tapers, the Japanese taper being one of the better known ones. I believe there may have been an Italian taper, too. Truth be told, I find a log pot for tone quite pleasant on some guitars. Arguably, our perception of frequency isn't entirely linear either, but who cares.

@RedGuitar that's the first time I've seen a Wago clamp in a guitar apart from on my bench. I'm not sure if think it's a good idea but it did put a grin on my face... :)
 
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