What about the German Defflexx(spelling?) system, as an aside Robert, i've read loads of your posts & your obviously a few rungs up the ladder from me

, but i'm surprised your using 70/80's, even to my old & deaf ears i changed them out straightaway in a couple of Marshalls, they might be why you're thinking about beam blockers

, also i've never used them.
The 7080s are really voiced for modeling type amps. They sound
half decent in some of those. But as a rule, I would replace them in most amps as well.
By the way. I see you're new here, welcome aboard. It may seem pretty normal around here right now, but that's just how we lure people in. Watch out for
@Ramo, he's a real firecracker!
Funny thing...I like my speakers to deliver clarity at stage volumes. Many folks seem to like to hear the speakers "break up," because this phrase appears over and over again online, as does the "midrange spike" in the Vintage 30's...but "break up" is distortion and a general lack of clarity.
I also discovered that I don't like a speaker that "colors" or adds elements to the sound. I want the speaker to just amplify/project without any bias.
The 70/80 seems to handle the high gain settings with greater clarity, and it's kinda what it was designed to do???
I should have used them a long time ago before spending $325.00 on a pair of "better" Jensen Neodymiums and $160.00 on a custom 50watt, WGS Reaper 55Hz...LOL
Anyways, I figured this was a good thing to add here,
@old rocker, I'm a huge Doug Aldrich fan and his go-to speaker is the 25 watt Greenback. Also, Robbin Crosby of Ratt also favored the 25 watt Greenbacks.
For me, I want more speaker power handling capability than I need because I run the rig really, really loud, so in my 50 watt rig, I would never run less than a 50 watt speaker.
Before I threw in the 70/80's, I was running a 100watt Jensen Neodymium and a 80watt Jensen Jet Stealth, both made in Italy. I played over 200 shows with those speakers and they held up nicely.
I felt like the 70/80 had more clarity at high gain and resonance settings and they just handled the low frequency response with out getting loose.
Try a palm-muted F# with the master volume around 7-8 if you wanna check speakers for break up...