Guitar Setup Questions:

Is a full and comprehensive setup on a brand nee guitar reasonable?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 70.6%
  • No

    Votes: 5 29.4%

  • Total voters
    17

Inspector #20

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Ok, several members have said it is reasonable to expect a brand new off the hangar guitar to need a full and comprehensive setup to correct high action, improper relief, fret buzz, dead notes, etc. I have recently played a $4,799 Gibson LPC at Guitar Sinner that desperately needed a full setup, but should this really be acceptable, as some herein have suggested???

Thoughts???
 
correct high action,
YES - what high is, or what is comfortable, is subjective. also, this is easy to do.

improper relief,
YES - necks move with weather and humidity

fret buzz
YES/NO- this could be the result of relief and some other easily adjustable factors, but could result from some real bad stuff too - if I was not surre what was causing it, I would run away from the guitar

dead notes
NO - I currently think that this means different things to different people, but they are all bad - run away

Sharp ends
NO - this means a poorly built or poorly stored guitar. You should not have to file fret ends on your new guitar. Also, this is not so easy to do.
 
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i would say the vast majority of guitars off the wall have a slightly higher action.Simply because it prolly wont have fret buzz and will play.Its better to error on the side of caution so to speak. Id say the more it cost the better it should be set up but im gonna put my own spin on the set up even if it was good.So you kind of need to do just a sort of overall inspection of it and see if it can be made like you like.
 
What about sharp fret ends????
Sharp fret ends have often proven to be fret sprout in my experience. Dried out, shrunken fretboards that feel like a saw blade, usually don't feel that way a couple of days after I set up(which includes a fretboard clean, and oil). With ebony, sometimes it may take a week...the first time around. Most of my unbound rosewood, and ebony boarded guitars have either started with sprout, or have developed it after a cold dry New England winter...a little bore oil, and like magic, it's gone.
Yes, even a couple of the "new" off the wall ones have had a little bit of sprout... who knows how long they sit around, in what conditions? The giveaway(for me) is that the sawblade feel is pretty consistent, and not beyond reason.
The only unbound fretboard that Have not had to oil down at all is the one on my Martin. It's a Richlite board:rolf:.
Life happens, so does the wether...there's no stopping it sometimes.
Best of luck!
 
Sharp fret ends have often proven to be fret sprout in my experience. Dried out, shrunken fretboards that feel like a saw blade, usually don't feel that way a couple of days after I set up(which includes a fretboard clean, and oil). With ebony, sometimes it may take a week...the first time around. Most of my unbound rosewood, and ebony boarded guitars have either started with sprout, or have developed it after a cold dry New England winter...a little bore oil, and like magic, it's gone.
Yes, even a couple of the "new" off the wall ones have had a little bit of sprout... who knows how long they sit around, in what conditions? The giveaway(for me) is that the sawblade feel is pretty consistent, and not beyond reason.
The only unbound fretboard that Have not had to oil down at all is the one on my Martin. It's a Richlite board:rolf:.
Life happens, so does the wether...there's no stopping it sometimes.
Best of luck!

Good information....thanks!
 
Sharp fret ends have often proven to be fret sprout in my experience. Dried out, shrunken fretboards that feel like a saw blade, usually don't feel that way a couple of days after I set up(which includes a fretboard clean, and oil). With ebony, sometimes it may take a week...the first time around. Most of my unbound rosewood, and ebony boarded guitars have either started with sprout, or have developed it after a cold dry New England winter...a little bore oil, and like magic, it's gone.
Yes, even a couple of the "new" off the wall ones have had a little bit of sprout... who knows how long they sit around, in what conditions? The giveaway(for me) is that the sawblade feel is pretty consistent, and not beyond reason.
The only unbound fretboard that Have not had to oil down at all is the one on my Martin. It's a Richlite board:rolf:.
Life happens, so does the wether...there's no stopping it sometimes.
Best of luck!
I agree with this except to the extent that it implies that oiling the neck/board and proper humidification is a sure thing to eradicate fret sprout, or that if it does this, that it necessarily happens this quickly. It is possible that hydrating the neck may still leave some protruding ends. It is also a gamble that a dry neck is the cause when deciding whether to buy a guitar or keep a newly purchased guitar. Since the original question was if this is to be expected or tolerated on a new guitar, I maintain that it should not and if you fund this and are asked to pay anything close to full price, you should run for the hills.
 
Fret sprout is a natural thing, as stated above. Once it's fixed, however, you shouldn't need to worry about it again with that guitar, unless you move to a different climate
 
Absolutely, but i should qualify that- after 40-odd years in the build/repair biz, i pretty much field strip, then refine the guitar to my preferences, anyway. It's half the fun of NGD...

For John H. Customer, no. At that price, i would

A- buy from an authorized dealer (NOT Guitar Center)
B- expect said dealer to provide a pristine instrument, in perfect playing order for my playing style.
 
So would you purchase a guitar, at full price, that exhibited fret sprout?
I have, twice. the first time it was obvious the fret board was very dry. It was a new Gibson SG in a store. The demo guitar didn't feel right so I asked them to open a new one. It felt great but it did have a little fret sprout. I took it home, oiled it, and set the action. Two weeks later it was perfect, no sharp frets. It was still perfect when I sold it two years later. The other guitar was a Taylor GS Mini. Again it was new in the box in the store. It had very minimal fret sprout on the high frets. The salesman noticed it and said they would have their guy look at it. It was the weekend and he wasn't there. I took it back Monday and left it over night. I've used the luthier they use before. He is really good. He did a full setup and cleaned up the sharp frets. It is still my number one acoustic. Now whenever I get a new guitar it spends some time with Paul, the luthier. I can get a setup very close to his but he knows what I like. Every guitar I've had him work is better than when it went in.
 
Absolutely, but i should qualify that- after 40-odd years in the build/repair biz, i pretty much field strip, then refine the guitar to my preferences, anyway. It's half the fun of NGD...

For John H. Customer, no. At that price, i would

A- buy from an authorized dealer (NOT Guitar Center)
B- expect said dealer to provide a pristine instrument, in perfect playing order for my playing style.
My only significant experience with fret sprout was with SS frets, and it did not easily resolve. I have bought less expensive guitars which has a bit of sprout and which hydrated more quickly, probably for the same reason they dehydrated in the first place, a porous, unfinished neck. Based on you and TBdon's opinion, I am encouraged that if I confront it again I should not be as concerned. That said, I still would tell the average consumer to pass unless it was one of a kind, which I think is your view also.
 
When I got my brand new 1987 Import Stratocaster, you couldn't ever feel the ends of the frets at all. I guess I just expected others to be like that.

Both my 2003 and 2016 Gibson SG's had fret edges that would pull material off a polishing cloth, even after oiling.

Still have an edgey feeling on my 2016 Gibson SG....8 months old now and lots of orange oil...
 
I don't know if it is reasonable or not, but I expect some work to be needed in some degree; either truss rod adjustment and/or bridge/action adjustment, at the very least.

Both my ES 330 and ES 335 played almost perfect out of the box. Both were left over models purchased new, but had been sitting in unsold stock for more than a year.

My biggest complaint on both was the E strings being placed too close to the fretboard edges for my tastes.

I am not a fan of Gibson's PLEK machine. It is either programmed poorly or its spec has drifted. Any half decent luthier/guitar tech could do a better job setting up a guitar to be more playable than the Gibson PLEK.

That said, I have received a guitar back from the luthier/tech with the a brand new nut and bridge installed with the E strings place right on the edge of the fretboard. :rolleyes: I have never returned to that tech, not even to correct that problem. Hell no. :ROFLMAO:
 
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