Input Desired on Warmoth Custom Neck:

Inspector #20

Inspector #20

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Thinking about a Custom Warmoth for Yellow Stratocaster.

1-3/4" Nut Width

50's 'U' profile

22 frets

Big CBS headstock

Double acting truss rod

Graph tech nut

After considering Mahogany and Walnut, I felt as though Maple would give me the greatest resistance to heat and humidity.

My choices have now come down to either unfinished, roasted maple one-piece construction, or two piece maple shaft/maple board, finished in satin vintage-tint nitro.

I'm interested in thoughts from you guys who have experience with different neck materials.

Thanks...
 
Wow! That sounds like a very substantial neck. Is the twelve string neck on your double that wide? I'm sure it would be a classical guitarist's dream.

With the neck that wide, what are the thickness dimensions at the 1st and 12th fret? Just wondering how much of a club that will be. Should be quite thin if it's that wide. What will the radius be?

The rest of it sounds good. I'd go for regular maple with tinted nitro finish.
 
Robert Herndon said:
Thinking about a Custom Warmoth for Yellow Stratocaster.

1-3/4" Nut Width

50's 'U' profile

22 frets

Big CBS headstock

Double acting truss rod

Graph tech nut

After considering Mahogany and Walnut, I felt as though Maple would give me the greatest resistance to heat and humidity.

My choices have now come down to either unfinished, roasted maple one-piece construction, or two piece maple shaft/maple board, finished in satin vintage-tint nitro.

I'm interested in thoughts from you guys who have experience with different neck materials.

Thanks...
Click to expand...
Maple is solid but dead sounding.
Mahogany has much better sustain.
 
SG John said:
Wow! That sounds like a very substantial neck. Is the twelve string neck on your double that wide? I'm sure it would be a classical guitarist's dream.

With the neck that wide, what are the thickness dimensions at the 1st and 12th fret? Just wondering how much of a club that will be. Should be quite thin if it's that wide. What will the radius be?

The rest of it sounds good. I'd go for regular maple with tinted nitro finish.
Click to expand...

It's a little narrower than my 12, which is 1.875" at the nut and I find it quite comfortable to play.

The Fender 'U' profile is 1.00" from first to 12th. The heel is standard Fender dimensions. All my Von Herndon guitars used a 1.00" profile. I wear a size XXL glove, so the "ball bat" feel is good for me and the extra width should help my open chord dexterity.

Radius is 10" x 16" compound.

Frets are vintage Fender .080" x .037 in stainless steel.
 
You might reconsider the choice of a double-acting trussrod.
Some who know more than I do have said they tend to sound dead.
John Suhr refuses to use them; his comments about their effect on tone are around 2:16:08 in this vid.
 
Like the prospect of using stainless fretwire, but have concerns should it need to be leveled and crowned...
 
Another issue with the finished neck is they apply the clear over the frets, so I would have to level and crown automatically to get rid of the coating on top of the frets.
 
I have two guitars with SS frets they don't eat strings and the strings don't eat frets. Should last a life time.
Restoring a 1960 strat neck tempted to go SS with the frets it's a rare chunky D neck the stock frets are gone fretless wounder.
The only U necks I have are on a 1953 fender Esquire and a 1971 Telecaster both maple necks.

1960 strat neck 002.JPG

1960 strat neck 003.JPG

1960 strat neck 004.JPG
 
Robert Herndon said:
Another issue with the finished neck is they apply the clear over the frets, so I would have to level and crown automatically to get rid of the coating on top of the frets.
Click to expand...
Buy it unfinished and get a rattle can of gloss and one of satin from Stew Mac. That's what I do and it's really easy and turns out great. I'm sure you could mask the frets if you want to.
 
Cadorman said:
Buy it unfinished and get a rattle can of gloss and one of satin from Stew Mac. That's what I do and it's really easy and turns out great. I'm sure you could mask the frets if you want to.
Click to expand...

The roasted maple doesn't require a finish.
 
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