chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Yup Robert, I remember you saying that about the Rustoleum.
After you sprayed it on, did you wet sand it and the clear coat?
After you sprayed it on, did you wet sand it and the clear coat?
Stratocaster Project H-S-S From Junk:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
OP
Nope. Shot the clear 30 minutes after the paint without sanding.
OP
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Robert, I have the copper foil like you used here, where did you get the Silver?
I have a spot in the bottom of one SG where the previous owner had the EMG's and stupidly put a hole in the foil to place the 9v battery in there.
I would like to fill in the hole and then foil in the whole bottom to seal up the breach in the original shielding. As I look at this pic, I think he might have also cut out by the jack mounting area. Maybe I should see if any other members have a 75-79 ish SG STD and could post pics of how Gib did their cavity. I either do that, or just take out the foil in there, and put my own copper foil like you did to the Strat, or how I did my SG Faded Special.
I have a spot in the bottom of one SG where the previous owner had the EMG's and stupidly put a hole in the foil to place the 9v battery in there.
I would like to fill in the hole and then foil in the whole bottom to seal up the breach in the original shielding. As I look at this pic, I think he might have also cut out by the jack mounting area. Maybe I should see if any other members have a 75-79 ish SG STD and could post pics of how Gib did their cavity. I either do that, or just take out the foil in there, and put my own copper foil like you did to the Strat, or how I did my SG Faded Special.
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chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
This is how it looks with the stock pups, controls, switch and jack all re-installed.
OP
I buy the aluminum tape at Dollar Tree for $1.00 a roll. I use it for the larger areas. The copper is a special tape from Art Of Tone in Ventura, California. It has conductive adhesive, so when you apply it over the aluminum, it makes all the pieces of the "patchwork quilt" conductive. You can also older directly to the heavy copper tape...
OP
When I work on old Gibson's like that, I buy a sheet of .015" aluminum and rebend a piece to replace the original. Simply flatten the old piece out, trace the dimensions and cut a new one from the aluminum sheet...
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Thanks Robert, the copper I have is like you got from A O T. I likely got it there too.
OP
The copper - with full coverage - is way better then Gibson's "lazy" approach to putting an ill-fitting piece of aluminum in there....
Not much help here Chilli. A 79 The SG, you can see where they held the cost down, NO shielding.
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Oh no, that helps, Dono,
My 2009 ish Faded. not much different unless u count the glance attempt at shielding paint in the actual control cavity.
My 2009 ish Faded. not much different unless u count the glance attempt at shielding paint in the actual control cavity.
OP
If I plug an unshielded guitar like your SG in here, it will play the local radio station up on the hill behind our home...
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Which brings me to ask, why do you use the copper AND aluminum for the Strat? Is it because the pickguard already had the aluminum on it or different reason?
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
OP
I shield the entire back of the pickguard and the cavities. The aluminum is cheaper and goes further. That's really the only reason I use it.
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
chilipeppermaniac
Ambassador of Decibels
Other than my buddy's DOT head stock decapitation repair, this was my best guitar fix to date. MY broken T rod that sheared off in the anchor.
OP
That's the culprit...
OP
I remember!!!