After 30 Years, I'm Back To A 1987 Stratocaster:

Yes, you can do this to control high end. Best to use a cap & resistor (or trimpot, which is a small variable resistor). This way you can dial it in to your liking. It works like a tone control fixed at one position. I really like the set up on Smitty-p's & my strat, gives you bridge pickup with or without tone control, bridge & middle with or without tone control & middle with or without tone control, so its like a standard strat + 3 options. Oh, like using a cap/resistor across (in parallel with) the pickup to control high end, you can put a cap in line (in series) with the pickup to control bass, or muddy sounding pickups. Cheers
 
Checking out this diagram Tone Man sent me on how to use the neck tone control with the bridge. This got me to thinking...

Why not wire this to run the neck or middle pickup wide-open and have a tone control for bridge and middle or bridge and neck???

The reason this appeals to me is how the neck pickup tends to create the famous "warble anomaly" on the Stratocaster when I move it closely enough to sound good.

When I lower my neck pickup (DiMarzio YJM) enough to kill the oscillation, I lose a lot of output and get a much darker tone.

I know how to jump the switch to enable tone control over the bridge, as I have a diagram that shows it, but how would I take the neck pickup out of the equation and have the tone controls assigned only to bridge and middle pickup?

This is simply a jumper in a different location, correct?
 
Checking out this diagram Tone Man sent me on how to use the neck tone control with the bridge. This got me to thinking...

Why not wire this to run the neck or middle pickup wide-open and have a tone control for bridge and middle or bridge and neck???

There's certainly no reason not to try that. It all comes down to what you like.

You're experimenting and that's good. You may discover the new rage in guitar tonez!
 
There's certainly no reason not to try that. It all comes down to what you like.

You're experimenting and that's good. You may discover the new rage in guitar tonez!

Smitty,

You ever deal with that "Strat-Itis" anomoly on the neck pickup????

I can't believe how far I have to drop the neck to get rid of it...
 
This is a favorite old pickguard of mine. The setup is almost 10 years old with Alpha 500k pots and a Alpha switch. It features a long discontinued GFS double slug bridge humbucker 13.9k with a 10k GFS hum cancelling True Coil in the middle and a 7 k in the neck.

I always keep this one and I want to alter the tonr controls...

As I was looking at the switch, I noticed it looked funny.

Right to left isvthe dark green hot lead of the bridge humbucker, the next terminal is the middle and the last green wire is the neck.

I see only one jumper on this setup.

How would I wire this to enable bridge tone control and middle pickup tone control, but run the neck wide-open???
IMG_20170305_34310.jpg IMG_20170305_10957.jpg IMG_20170305_43642.jpg IMG_20170305_51563.jpg
 
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Hi Robert, here is a diagram showing the connections on a squire type switchC__Data_Users_DefApps_AppData_INTERNETEXPLORER_Temp_Saved Images_imagesIHUX8EEP.jpg
Your volume control is wired to the two center "common" tags with the jumper you mention between them. If you want to move the neck tone control over to the bridge pickup alone, (no neck tone control), simply move the neck tone control's wire to the unused "bridge" tag on the switch. If you want to have the neck tone control for both neck & bridge pickups, take a link from the neck tone control tag on the switch & link it to the unused bridge tag. Hope this helps. Stratitis. Much more of a problem with single coils than humbuckers. Not much you can do about. I wind the pickups (yes, neck is by far the worst offender) down to just get rid the "warble" & use a tube screamer to get more drive if I need it. Cheers
Edit; the above switch is only for Squier's or import type strats, not American strats.
 
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Hi Robert, here is a diagram showing the connections on a squire type switchView attachment 3119
Your volume control is wired to the two center "common" tags with the jumper you mention between them. If you want to move the neck tone control over to the bridge pickup alone, (no neck tone control), simply move the neck tone control's wire to the unused "bridge" tag on the switch. If you want to have the neck tone control for both neck & bridge pickups, take a link from the neck tone control tag on the switch & link it to the unused bridge tag. Hope this helps. Stratitis. Much more of a problem with single coils than humbuckers. Not much you can do about. I wind the pickups (yes, neck is by far the worst offender) down to just get rid the "warble" & use a tube screamer to get more drive if I need it. Cheers

I'm really confused when I look at the back of my H-S-S switch...It has 5 positions, but if you look at the close-up I don't have an unused tab...well, there is an unused fragment there but no eyelet.

IMG_20170305_51563.jpg
 
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Is that an unused tag, 3rd from left, between the yellow lead (2nd from left) & the white wire in the center that is jumpered between the two common tags. I'm viewing on a phone & its a little small for my tired old eyes, lol. Cheers
Edit; looking at the diagram I posted, the pickups are wired to the tags on the "left" side of the switch. Tags shown on the "right" side of the switch are where the tone controls connect. Cheers
Edit 2; your guitar is turned 180 degrees to the diagram. The switch is wired the same, note the "neck, middle, bridge" notations above the switch in the diagram. Cheers
 
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Is that an unused tag, 3rd from left, between the yellow lead (2nd from left) & the white wire in the center that is jumpered between the two common tags. I'm viewing on a phone & its a little small for my tired old eyes, lol. Cheers
Edit; looking at the diagram I posted, the pickups are wired to the tags on the "left" side of the switch. Tags shown on the "right" side of the switch are where the tone controls connect. Cheers
Edit 2; your guitar is turned 180 degrees to the diagram. The switch is wired the same, note the "neck, middle, bridge" notations above the switch in the diagram. Cheers

Ok...starting to make sense. The yellow wire goes to the bottom tone pot - closest to the input jack. The white wire comes from the top tone pot and, to add to the confusion, the volume pot wire (jumpered) is also white...
 
Ok, so to use the neck pickups tone control either move the white wire (non jumpered one) to the free tab, which will leave no tone control on the neck pickup, or simply add a jumper to link the white wire to the free tab. Actually that will probably work well as the neck & bridge are never in use at the same time with stock wiring. Cheers
 
Ok, so to use the neck pickups tone control either move the white wire (non jumpered one) to the free tab, which will leave no tone control on the neck pickup, or simply add a jumper to link the white wire to the free tab. Actually that will probably work well as the neck & bridge are never in use at the same time with stock wiring. Cheers

One of the main reasons I am considering running the neck without a tone control is how full bodied the tone is there anyway, based on the greater string vibration....
 
Ok, so to use the neck pickups tone control either move the white wire (non jumpered one) to the free tab, which will leave no tone control on the neck pickup, or simply add a jumper to link the white wire to the free tab. Actually that will probably work well as the neck & bridge are never in use at the same time with stock wiring. Cheers

Ok!

I converted the bottom tone control to work on bridge only and added a resistor on the razor sharp DiMarzio Virtual Vintage Solo (bridge) to take off the edge.

The top tone control is now middle only and neck is wide open.

Wow! No more piercing g/b/e tone. Rich. Full. Vibrant. Plenty of highs. Very thick crunch when overdriven.

The HS3 and YJM (neck) sound great too.

I added black tape (the high quality 3M) wherever a hot and ground ran close to each other and covered the backs of the pickups....dead quiet at full gain 3 feet from the amp.

I think I can finally stopped taking this one apart!!!
 
Kept getting "wolftones" on the neck, even when screwed down pretty close to flush. I ran an intonation check with my Korg Pitchblack in strobe mode and things were pretty close.

I have huge hands and I tend to clamp down really hard, so I go ever-so-slightly flat on the fretted notes so they pull into pitch.

If I dropped the pickup to kill the overtone anomaly, I lost tons of output and threw off my overall balance.

While working on this project, I broke the high "e" string. Rather than throw on another set, I grabbed some spare singles from my supply bag...

Now, a few months ago, a colleague influenced me to switch from a lifetime of using Ernie Ball (lime green) .010's to their hybrid .009's. But, all I had was a set of .017"/.013"/.010's" singles, so I threw them on.

I have to admit I was floored at the difference in tone with a mere .001" in string diameter and the "wolftones" were now gone. True, the additional .001" feels like I strung it with bass strings, but the tone on the G/B/E is so much fuller and with more clarity.

So, essentially, my Stratocaster is now back to 1988 specifications...even the stock pots and wiring....go figure.

The copper shielding was a big factor in noise reduction, but the full aluminum pickguard shield (.010") and strategic use of 3M Spec 33 electrical tape (1 layer insulates 100 VDC) totally isolated the electronics from EMI/RFI. The Tremolo spring cover is shielded on the back with aluminum tape.

Anywhere a hot and a ground wire were in close proximity, I applied the black tape. I saw the inside of one of Yngwie's Stratocaster's a few years ago and the backs of the pickup's were lined with copper tape. I used 3M black tape here too as I thought it was a better choice, especially since the wirr bundle crosses the back of each pickup.

I created a copper tunnel for the wiring to cross from input rout to main cavity, then joined them redundantly with a ground wire.

Where the "hot" tip of the input jack gets close to the copper shielded wall of the input jack rout, I applied a piece of black tape here too, which totally killed a very slight background "hum" that appeared when the jack was seated.

I also taped off the unused lugs on the pots and ran a super heavy gauge wire from input jack to volume pot with a dielectric shrink wrap covering. The ground wire from the input jack was also enlarged and shielded with the braided RFI stainless mess from a stripped out oxygen sensor and dielectric shrink wrapped into place at both ends.

When plugged into my 40 watt tube Marshall, you immediately think the guitar volume is turned off...its that quiet. Sitting in front of the computer no longer has any effect on the guitar and no more radio stations playing either.

Now, the wiring/pots/switch/tone cap are all the originals that came in the guitar in 1987. Only the main input wires were replaced. The pickup wire bundles are pretty ugly, due to the 4 conductor wiring, but its well soldered and quiet.

The images below show the post-modification wiring (top) and the pre-modification wiring (bottom) this switch had a really crazy wiring scheme, so I had to verify all connections with noise continuity. I couldn't go by any diagrams.

I need to get some recordings posted. You guys need to hear this!!!

IMG_20170306_36990.jpg IMG_20170228_0336.jpg
 
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Hi Robert, here is a diagram showing the connections on a squire type switchView attachment 3119
Your volume control is wired to the two center "common" tags with the jumper you mention between them. If you want to move the neck tone control over to the bridge pickup alone, (no neck tone control), simply move the neck tone control's wire to the unused "bridge" tag on the switch. If you want to have the neck tone control for both neck & bridge pickups, take a link from the neck tone control tag on the switch & link it to the unused bridge tag. Hope this helps. Stratitis. Much more of a problem with single coils than humbuckers. Not much you can do about. I wind the pickups (yes, neck is by far the worst offender) down to just get rid the "warble" & use a tube screamer to get more drive if I need it. Cheers
Edit; the above switch is only for Squier's or import type strats, not American strats.

Ivan,

This guitar was kind of crazy inside. I think looking at the switch upside down was a little confusing. Look at the attached photo, particularly the switch. From left-to-right (black wire side) here are the tab assignments:

(Black Side)

Bridge
Middle
Neck

Volume
(Jumper)
Volume

(Red Side)

Bridge
Middle
Neck

IMG_20170306_36990.jpg

Now this is TOTALLY DIFFERENT from the 5 position switch wiring in my H-S-S pickguard I have used for nearly 10 years!!!

Left to right:

Middle (White)
Neck. (Yellow)
Unused (Bridge)

Volume
(Jumper)
Volume

Neck (medium green)
Middle (light green)
Bridge (dark green)

IMG_20170305_51563.jpg


The stock 1987 tone cap (green poly) was never tested. I have no idea what value these guitars came with??? Maybe someone here knows???

Thanks very much for your explanation. It really helped me make sense of this mess...
 
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Hi Robert, can you see any numbers printed on the little green cap, like say, 223, maybe followed by a letter? Many guitars, even with single coils now use an 0.022uf, even Fender who used to use an 0.047uf (0.05uf) in the past. Seems there may be a few variations in the switches. They are pretty easy to work out using a multimeters ohms scale or diode/continuity setting. I'm glad you got your axe sorted. Just as there is no right or wrong with tone, there is no right or wrong with how you get it, electrically, so as Smitty said, experimenting is a good thing. Cheers
 
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