Tell us something we didnt already know.Im UNWOUND
I'm curious about this wound 3rd string stuff. Tell me about it.
I'm curious about this wound 3rd string stuff. Tell me about it.
I prefer the wound 3rd because to me and my ear the unwound 3rd never sounds just right.
Just a matter of personal likes.

Well said Smitty, your start needs a Tortoise shell pick guard. Just my opinion. Then it would look like my G&L, or you could just be . . . you. LMAOYeah. after you play with a wound third for awhile, you discover the more balanced timbre between the D string and the G string. Actually, with my Strat, I realized the improvement instantly.
Also, have you ever noticed how the G string always seems to be the string that presents tuning issues? A wound 3rd doesn't have near the tuning problems.
Overall, I think it makes chords sound more balanced. As I said earlier, this is especially true of Strats. The wound 3rd is a little less abrupt than a plain 3rd. This alleviates some of the Strat spikiness.
Now, switching to a wound 3rd does require a bit of work. You will need to reintonate your G string saddle. When using a plain 3rd, the G string saddle normally ends up at a position to the rear of the D string saddle. With a wound 3rd, it is usually just the opposite. The G string saddle sort of continues the geometry of the other wound string saddles and will usually end up just slightly forward of the D string saddle, as shown below in the pic of my Stratocaster:
View attachment 37693
Also, I found that when I switched to a wound 3rd on my 2014 SG, I had to use a nut file to just slightly widen the nut slot. I'm using a .018 wound third on that guitar. However, I didn't have to do this with my 2007 Les Paul Custom. I have a Graphtech XL nut on my Washburn and I didn't have to widen that slot for a .018 wound 3rd. I didn't have to mess with the nut slots on my Strat, either. I have a .017 wound 3rd on my Jackson and my Les Paul Studio. Those also didn't need any work. Only my 2014 SG needed a little tweaking. You just have to pay attention to your situation. If the string "pings" when you tune it, that is a sign that the string is binding in the nut, requiring a slight widening of the slot.
One final thing, a wound 3rd works fine with most bends, but if you play music that incorporates extreme bends on the G string, you may find that a wound 3rd doesn't give you quite the bending range you need. For me, I find that a wound 3rd doesn't restrict me on the types of blues or rock bends I normally do. So, that will be an individual, stylistic thing which may or may not be an issue.
I prefer the wound 3rd because to me and my ear the unwound 3rd never sounds just right.
Just a matter of personal likes.
Maybe your hearing is out of tune Chas..![]()
I think you just dated yourself, and me.......SLINKY!A string a String a marvelous thing everyone knows its......er wait .....no something went wrong........
Yeah. after you play with a wound third for awhile, you discover the more balanced timbre between the D string and the G string. Actually, with my Strat, I realized the improvement instantly.
Also, have you ever noticed how the G string always seems to be the string that presents tuning issues? A wound 3rd doesn't have near the tuning problems.
Overall, I think it makes chords sound more balanced. As I said earlier, this is especially true of Strats. The wound 3rd is a little less abrupt than a plain 3rd. This alleviates some of the Strat spikiness.
Now, switching to a wound 3rd does require a bit of work. You will need to reintonate your G string saddle. When using a plain 3rd, the G string saddle normally ends up at a position to the rear of the D string saddle. With a wound 3rd, it is usually just the opposite. The G string saddle sort of continues the geometry of the other wound string saddles and will usually end up just slightly forward of the D string saddle, as shown below in the pic of my Stratocaster:
View attachment 37693
Also, I found that when I switched to a wound 3rd on my 2014 SG, I had to use a nut file to just slightly widen the nut slot. I'm using a .018 wound third on that guitar. However, I didn't have to do this with my 2007 Les Paul Custom. I have a Graphtech XL nut on my Washburn and I didn't have to widen that slot for a .018 wound 3rd. I didn't have to mess with the nut slots on my Strat, either. I have a .017 wound 3rd on my Jackson and my Les Paul Studio. Those also didn't need any work. Only my 2014 SG needed a little tweaking. You just have to pay attention to your situation. If the string "pings" when you tune it, that is a sign that the string is binding in the nut, requiring a slight widening of the slot.
One final thing, a wound 3rd works fine with most bends, but if you play music that incorporates extreme bends on the G string, you may find that a wound 3rd doesn't give you quite the bending range you need. For me, I find that a wound 3rd doesn't restrict me on the types of blues or rock bends I normally do. So, that will be an individual, stylistic thing which may or may not be an issue.
Completely off topic, but I really wish Fender would go back to using those saddles. The stupid stamped-steel ones are really a dumb retro-move.
All very good info. I do drop the screws on the G position of all my Gibson pickups. Read in an article somewhere that the wound strings reduce magnetism hence the jump in volume as you move from D to G. I usually end up with low E dropped, A stock, D raised, G dropped, B dropped a smidge and high E about stock. I just play and try to balance the output string to string.
I use the Graphtec string saver saddles on my Strat. Really like them.