Project Carvin V-16: Morphing from PCB to Point To Point Turret Board

[ivan H]

Chassis: Right now, I'm leaning towards a blank aluminum Princeton Reverb style chassis. This one is made in Little Rock, Arkansas... $55 total!

View attachment 32772

Mojotone makes a head cabinet and custom faceplates (If I want them!) that will fit this!

That's the way I would most probably go as it allows you to do the layout exactly as you want. The power transformer cutout is easily done with an aluminium chassis, either a nibbler or jigsaw then a couple of files. A stepper drill makes correct size hole drilling easy. Another place to get a headcab is "Guitar Cabinets Direct". This is where the Valvestorm headcabs are made & they are great to deal with. Cheers

 

[syscokid]

if money is not an issue, MojoTone has a pre-punched chassis.
If you have access to the tool to punch or drill size for all all the holes and a mill for the access the transformer then go for it.
My self I would get the pre punched chassis.

The problem I see is that a drilled out Marshall style 18 watt chassis has a power transformer opening that is larger than the transformer that I have. The bolt mounting centers for the Marshall PT is 2 1/2" by 3 1/8"; the PT on the Carvin is 2" by 2 1/2". Too bad because all the tube socket holes are designed for a 9 pin sockets: Carvin V16: 3x 12AX7's and 2x EL84's. Plus, all the perfect fit head cabs for the 18 watt chassis has the chassis mounted to the bottom. The only place to locate the reverb tank would be the top. AFAIK, the Carvin reverb tank, made by Accutronics, is designed to lay on the bottom of the cab.

A drilled out Princeton Reverb chassis has power tube socket holes for 8-pin sockets, which are a bit larger. I do know that adapter plates are made so you can convert to a 9-pin socket, so this could be a maybe... The PR chassis' power tranny openings are identical to the Carvin… so this is good too. But I'm still going to have to modify the AC hole to allow a detachable AC cord (IEC). And drill out new holes for the fuse and power switch, since I don't like the Mojotone locations on their PR chassis. And.... the Mojo chassis are made of steel. Like I said before, I prefer aluminum.

The owner of that Donkey sanctuary that I'm volunteering at, has a metal and wood shop in his "barn". He has told me he could easily cut out, with accuracy, any hole or holes, and any squared openings as I see fit. And of coarse, aluminum is a whole lot easier to work with. It'll make the project more unique too. I'll also have the option to do custom faceplates or just scribble on the aluminum.

The same seller of the $55 blank aluminum chassis also sells a punched out PR chassis, made out of steel, for $50. This guy has some pretty fair prices for this type of stuff. Linky: ZH Music Parts | eBay Stores

 

[syscokid]

Another place to get a headcab is "Guitar Cabinets Direct".

Haven't heard of this one. Thanks...

 

[ivan H]

Haven't heard of this one. Thanks...

Robert at Valvestorm (great guy) recently put me on to them. I found them very helpful & easy to deal with. They offer a good many cabs with many options on them as well. It took less than a week from payment 'til shipping of a smallbox headcab. I would recommend them. Cheers

 

[ChasFred]

Then I say go for it. Ivan H is right about the step drill bit. If you have a GOOD step bit it will take care of your round holes.
I am keeping tabs on your progress for sure.

 

[syscokid]

Then I say go for it. Ivan H is right about the step drill bit. If you have a GOOD step bit it will take care of your round holes.
I am keeping tabs on your progress for sure.

Thanks! I had to relieve some GAS, so I just ordered it!!

Turret circuit board:
More than likely, I'll be ordering a custom turret board from Hoffman Amps. The website has a real cool DIY turret board layout program. If you know where you want the turrets, you fill out a template by marking the locations of the turrets. Then you submit it back to the website. When your ready to order, Hoffman enters your info into his CNC machine and the magic happens.

I almost ordered one, until I decided to change this project. Would have been about $28, not counting the shipping.
Linky: https://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=CustomBoard.htm&ORDER_ID=!ORDERID!

 

[ChasFred]

I am very familiar with his web site. I have played with the board designer in the past.
I know he is down sizing, he is sourcing a lot of supplies through Mojo Tone now.

 

[ivan H]

I prefer to turret my own boards. Having tried a good many different types of turrets, I find the Harwin H2073Z01 like these here(hopefully they're visible in this photo) to be by far the best. The solder (plain old 60/40 tin/lead solder) takes to them really well & they stake well & easily. Available from many outlets including Tube Depot. I stake them with this anvil & staking tool
The fully perforated board is available from many places, the board shown above being the FR4/G10 type obtained from Modulus in the UK. Doing it myself saves a good bit of money & having the materials on hand, I can usually turret up a board in an hour or two max. Cheers

 

[syscokid]

I prefer to turret my own boards. Having tried a good many different types of turrets, I find the Harwin H2073Z01 like these hereView attachment 32803(hopefully they're visible in this photo) to be by far the best. The solder (plain old 60/40 tin/lead solder) takes to them really well & they stake well & easily. Available from many outlets including Tube Depot. I stake them with this anvil & staking toolView attachment 32804
The fully perforated board is available from many places, the board shown above being the FR4/G10 type obtained from Modulus in the UK. Doing it myself saves a good bit of money & having the materials on hand, I can usually turret up a board in an hour or two max. Cheers

Nice! Your feeding me more GAS beans again. Is installing the turrets pretty easy?

 

[ChasFred]

Nice! Your feeding me more GAS beans again. Is installing the turrets pretty easy?

Not hard at all. The anvil and punch run about $5 each I think. Gotta get turrents to match the board thickness.
One you do 2-3 you will get the feel and have fun.
You know it is our job and responsibility to keep GAS at max influence.

 

[ivan H]

Nice! Your feeding me more GAS beans again. Is installing the turrets pretty easy?

Yes, as ChasFred said, once you've done a couple you'll have the hang of it. A tip, use something like a suitable thickness book to support the free end of the board so that it is level when you have a turret installed & in the anvil.
The most common turrets are for 2mm or 3mm board thickness. I always use the 3mm board. The turrets do not need to be super tightly fitted to the board, just so they are firm. I do them so that they can still easily be turned with long nose pliers (to straighten the split top if necessary). Cheers

 

[syscokid]

This is all I need to build a turret board?



I'll be ordering a couple of these boards from AES

Turret Board - Blank, 189 Holes, 10-1/8" x 2-5/8" | Antique Electronic Supply

Blank board, 10-1/8" x 2-5/8", 189 3mm holes on 3/8" centers. Blue, Green, Yellow: 2 mm board thicknessBlack, Red: 3 mm board thickness

www.tubesandmore.com

A bunch of these turrets from Tube Depot:

Bifurcated Turret Lugs for Epoxy Board

Made in the UK, these bifurcated tinned solid brass turrets for building boards. These turrent lugs are for use with 1/8 glass epoxy G-10 board.

tubedepot.com

And this staking tool:

TubeDepot.com Turret Setter Tool

This is the perfect tool for press fitting Keystone 1540-4 turrets into glass epoxy boards. This tool can be used either by hand or installed into a drill press. Operation is incredibly simple and is thoroughly explained in the included direction sheet as well as the download file below. This great

tubedepot.com

 

[ChasFred]

This is all I need to build a turret board?

View attachment 32852

I'll be ordering a couple of these boards from AES

Turret Board - Blank, 189 Holes, 10-1/8" x 2-5/8" | Antique Electronic Supply

Blank board, 10-1/8" x 2-5/8", 189 3mm holes on 3/8" centers. Blue, Green, Yellow: 2 mm board thicknessBlack, Red: 3 mm board thickness

www.tubesandmore.com

A bunch of these turrets from Tube Depot:
View attachment 32853

Bifurcated Turret Lugs for Epoxy Board

Made in the UK, these bifurcated tinned solid brass turrets for building boards. These turrent lugs are for use with 1/8 glass epoxy G-10 board.

tubedepot.com

And this staking tool:
View attachment 32854

TubeDepot.com Turret Setter Tool

This is the perfect tool for press fitting Keystone 1540-4 turrets into glass epoxy boards. This tool can be used either by hand or installed into a drill press. Operation is incredibly simple and is thoroughly explained in the included direction sheet as well as the download file below. This great

tubedepot.com

you need the anvil also that goes underneath. It is what swagges the bottom side evenly

 

[ChasFred]

your the man. Once you complete this project, you will have experience and gained knowledge
that will start you up the ladder to boutique amp builder. Definitely experience that the average
musician will not have or even contemplate attempting.

 

[ivan H]

you need the anvil also that goes underneath. It is what swagges the bottom side evenly

I got the anvil/punch set from www.evatco.com.au here in Oz (under TagBoards, Tagstrip, Turrets), in case you can't find them easily. It would take a week plus to get to you from here though. Cheers

 

[syscokid]

you need the anvil also that goes underneath. It is what swagges the bottom side evenly

Thanks. Wasn't sure if it was necessary. I might be able to shape one on a grinder from a 1/4"-thick bolt.

I got the anvil/punch set from www.evatco.com.au here in Oz (under TagBoards, Tagstrip, Turrets), in case you can't find them easily. It would take a week plus to get to you from here though. Cheers

That looks nice.

your the man. Once you complete this project, you will have experience and gained knowledge
that will start you up the ladder to boutique amp builder. Definitely experience that the average
musician will not have or even contemplate attempting.

Oh shucks.... I'm not even an average musician, but I do appreciate the encouragement...

 

[ivan H]

And this staking tool:
View attachment 32854

TubeDepot.com Turret Setter Tool

This is the perfect tool for press fitting Keystone 1540-4 turrets into glass epoxy boards. This tool can be used either by hand or installed into a drill press. Operation is incredibly simple and is thoroughly explained in the included direction sheet as well as the download file below. This great

tubedepot.com

I'm pretty sure that this staking tool is for pressing the turrets into the board (interference fit). This is not my preferred method. I like the turrets to be a slip in fit in the board (2.7mm hole diameter in board) & then use the anvil & punch to set the turrets. I just find it much easier & quicker, plus I can twist any turrets to align the split top in the direction I want if needed. This can't be done with the "interference fit" set turrets. But both methods work. Cheers

 

[syscokid]

I'm pretty sure that this staking tool is for pressing the turrets into the board (interference fit). This is not my preferred method. I like the turrets to be a slip in fit in the board (2.7mm hole diameter in board) & then use the anvil & punch to set the turrets. I just find it much easier & quicker, plus I can twist any turrets to align the split top in the direction I want if needed. This can't be done with the "interference fit" set turrets. But both methods work. Cheers

I'm confused...
I thought this tool slips over the turret, and then you hammer it while the bottom of the turret sits over the anvil. The anvil will be created with a modified 5/16"-thick bolt like this example:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/tubedepot-com-production/spree/attached_files/turret_swage_fit_v1.pdf?1382029920

I don't have a drill press either...

 

[ChasFred]

I'm confused...
I thought this tool slips over the turret, and then you hammer it while the bottom of the turret sits over the anvil. The anvil will be created with a modified 5/16"-thick bolt like this example:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/tubedepot-com-production/spree/attached_files/turret_swage_fit_v1.pdf?1382029920

I don't have a drill press either...

I do not have a drill press either. Just a slight tap tap with a hammer. Thats the way I do it. Where I buy boards and turrets, the turrets slip into the board.
the anvil goes over the turret, the stake is underneath to swage the bottom.

Give me your address and I will send you mine to use. Or look here one is mid page the other further down. You are welcome to use mine though.

Search | Amplified Parts

 

[ivan H]

I'm confused...
I thought this tool slips over the turret, and then you hammer it while the bottom of the turret sits over the anvil. The anvil will be created with a modified 5/16"-thick bolt like this example:

https://s3.amazonaws.com/tubedepot-com-production/spree/attached_files/turret_swage_fit_v1.pdf?1382029920

I don't have a drill press either...

This is exactly the way I do them with my anvil/punch set, though with a hammer, not a drill press. The anvil sits on the work bench with the hole in it facing upwards. The turret body (the part of the turret that is above the board) is inserted into the anvil. The board is placed onto it & then the turret is swaged with the punch on the boards underside. So the board is upsidedown when the turret is swaged.
Downloading the sheet for the first one you posted shows it is for press setting (interference fit) the turrets where the turret bottom does not need to be swaged (as it's a tight fit in the board), though it could be used in the way ChasFred does them. In this case you would need the punch under the board to swage the bottom of the turret.
Over the last 3 decade I have set a lot of turrets. The setup I'm using now (last 15yrs) is by far the easiest method & does the nearest job (look at the face of the punch in my pic or on the evatco site). It swages them properly rather than spread them like a center punch does, see pics. These turrets are swaged with a pointed punch (like a center punch)
Notice the bottom of the turrets are flared & split (this is a Valvestorm supplied board). Now compare to these properly swaged turrets
This is a board I did a few days ago with the evatco supplied anvil/punch set. Big difference (sorry about the dust on the board in the 2nd pic).
If you like I could grab you an anvil/punch set & send to you for future use. Cheers