Fret Level Help

[RVA]

Yeah, me too.

In fact, you gassed me up on those StewMac Fret Erasers. Those are really nice to work with...

Yes, they are so much easier than folding up a small piece of sand paper.

 

[RVA]

Progress is steady. I started with the long beam, but was completely missing the middle, so I switched to the small block. I think I can go back to the long beam now. Such fun!

 

[RVA]

Going



Gone



Success!!

 

[DonP]

Excellent! How long did that take you?

 

[RVA]

Excellent! How long did that take you?

Thank you! About 2 straight hours. It makes for good exercise!

I am sealing the board with wipe-on, water-based poly. I will keep it light, maybe 3-5 coats, sanded in between coats.

 

[RVA]

Question: Given that the TR is fully relaxed and the neck is dead straight, what if I get back bow after installing the frets? How will I flatten it for the fret level?

Thanks

 

[DonP]

Question: Given that the TR is fully relaxed and the neck is dead straight, what if I get back bow after installing the frets? How will I flatten it for the fret level?

Thanks

That's why super-tight frets are a bad idea. But it shouldn't happen. The pull of the strings will do the job.

 

[RVA]

That's why super-tight frets are a bad idea. But it shouldn't happen. The pull of the strings will do the job.

Thank you. I will slot well and hope for the best. Otherwise, I will put some strings on it until it develops relief. Much appreciated!

 

[Inspector #20]

Excellent! How long did that take you?

How much beer did that take you???

 

[Session 5]

Nice work!! very clean and accurate job RVA!

 

[jtcnj]

Very nice work.
This is deeper than I ever want to go, but
I am following this with great interest.

 

[syscokid]

Appreciate you posting your pics and details of this project. Such an interesting thread so far. And your work looks excellent...

 

[Inspector #20]

Looks like about 9.5" before you started....where you at now???

 

[RVA]

Looks like about 9.5" before you started....where you at now???

It started at 7.25" and is actually at 9.5" now.

 

[Inspector #20]

It started at 7.25" and is actually at 9.5" now.

Holy Crap! That's a real vintage neck! I had to use a radius block and take my Squirecaster out to 12" just to get a good feel for leads...looks like great work!!!

 

[CabanaBoy]

That fret board has sweet look'n grain going on - looks super nice.

 

[Inspector #20]

Impressive Work!!!! Seriously, This Is The Best Way To Handle This...

 

[RVA]

Here is the begining of a decent idea:
Ingredients: A small hammer, a slotter piece of wood, a radius beam



Put a length of fret in the wood slot



Apply slotted fret length to radius beam and hit wood with hammer



Presto! Pre-radiused fret




However, the issues are:

Although it only left micro-marks, this will eventually take a toll on the beam. I do not want that. Also, I do not imaginge the slot on the wood will last long. A harder material is necessary. Please feel free to add to this concept.

Maybe a fret bender is in order. You could buy one

https://www.amazon.com/AmplifiedParts-S-T257-Fret-Bender/dp/B01CKCW1DE#customerReviews

FretBender | stewmac.com

Or make one

 

[DonP]

I like that. You could get some made in steel for probably not too much money. The fret benders with wheels work well, but not with pre-cut frets.

 

[RVA]

After some research, I ordered this fret bender. It is all metal construction, has a steel wheel and an easy manner of adjustment, all for the best price in that quality range (stand is for illustration only - you mount it to the side of a work area with the bottom screw holes). Those Canadians make some quality products!

GUITAR FRET BENDER Luthier Guitar Fretwire Bending Tools | eBay