Fret Level Help

Frets are out. I left some marks on the higher parts of the FB. Some gave me a good fight. It is not a worry here since I will be re-raduising it, but I learned a few lesson of technique for the future. A 7.25" radius makes fret pulling garder than a flatter radius, since it is harder to grab a sizable portion to lift.

I will let the neck relax in this state over night, since there is much less tension without the frets.

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RVA said:
Frets are out. I left some marks on the higher parts of the FB. Some gave me a good fight. It is not a worry here since I will be re-raduising it, but I learned a few lesson of technique for the future. A 7.25" radius makes fret pulling garder than a flatter radius, since it is harder to grab a sizable portion to lift.

I will let the neck relax in this state over night, since there is much less tension without the frets.

View attachment 19856
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Liken to working with an artifact from Tutankhamen's tomb and playing the game 'Operation' at the same time....A brilliant job!!!
 
It looks like most of its life has been spent unplayed; there are no visible finger-wear patches in the lacquer. That could account for at least part of its condition. I saw a wire in the corner of one of your pictures. Did you use a soldering iron to heat the frets before pulling them? I always find that helps minimise tear-out.
 
DonP said:
It looks like most of its life has been spent unplayed; there are no visible finger-wear patches in the lacquer. That could account for at least part of its condition. I saw a wire in the corner of one of your pictures. Did you use a soldering iron to heat the frets before pulling them? I always find that helps minimise tear-out.
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Yes, the soldering iron was a big help.

The owner lost confidence in this guitar after the neck pivot issue, so it got shelved after that. However, rear upper horn has honest play wear through the paint. Maybe the lack of FB wear is due to his classical guitar training.
 
Quite the job there Ray--- look at all the additional knowledge you are groaning that old stinker at Stew Mac will be calling YOU SOON for help!! ;)
 
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Session 5 said:
Nice work RVA! I wouldn't know where to begin.
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Thanks, but it is just OK work. The last few fought me a lot and there was not much to grab, so there are some marks. It does not matter this time because I will resurface the board, but I hope to avoid that next time.
 
Since you're planning for a slightly flatter radius, how will you make sure the fret slots will follow the new radius?
 
syscokid said:
Sorry, RVA... I don't understand that answer.
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Sorry, a distracted answer (at work). They will be re-cut somewhat after I plane the top because I will need to make the slots deeper. If there is a small space somewhere between the fret wire bottom and the wood at points, it will be filled with crazy glue. Generally speaking, I do not consider this aspect to be a big issue, but I am always willing to learn.
 
RVA said:
Sorry, a distracted answer (at work). They will be re-cut somewhat after I plane the top because I will need to make the slots deeper. If there is a small space somewhere between the fret wire bottom and the wood at points, it will be filled with crazy glue. Generally speaking, I do not consider this aspect to be a big issue, but I am always willing to learn.
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I think Stewmac sell a fretting saw with an adjustable depth stop. I've not tried it so I can't speak for its quality. I generally just use an eyeball and a piece of plastic I cut to show the right depth. A bit of excess depth doesn't hurt. If it happens at the edge where you can see it, PVA glue and sawdust make it completely invisible.

Also, I don't like frets so tight you have to hammer them in. 22 x that force puts a lot of strain on the fretboard. Mine always go in with firm thumb pressure and then they get runny superglue trailed along the sides. This wicks in nicely under capillary action and the fret is set. When it has to come out again it responds perfectly to heat, and the fretboard never suffers damage.
 
DonP said:
I think Stewmac sell a fretting saw with an adjustable depth stop. I've not tried it so I can't speak for its quality. I generally just use an eyeball and a piece of plastic I cut to show the right depth. A bit of excess depth doesn't hurt. If it happens at the edge where you can see it, PVA glue and sawdust make it completely invisible.

Also, I don't like frets so tight you have to hammer them in. 22 x that force puts a lot of strain on the fretboard. Mine always go in with firm thumb pressure and then they get runny superglue trailed along the sides. This wicks in nicely under capillary action and the fret is set. When it has to come out again it responds perfectly to heat, and the fretboard never suffers damage.
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I have that fret saw, bought at your suggestion before my first job. It was a very good suggestion as it works great.
 
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