OP
Well that cheapo plastic nut went bye bye. I scored the 1/2" thick finish with a razor blade and tapped it free.
Lets make a new bone nut from scratch.
First we need some bone.
Same ones from the pet store that I give my dog.
I cut out an oversized blank on the scroll saw and square it up on the belt sander.
Getting the thickness just right so it nestles in the old nut slot.
Pay no attention to the odd looking truss rod groove, it was originally bondo to hold the lower screw in place.
It's now epoxy. Still a halfassed bandaid but much more permanent, after all it's still a Chibson.
There is a functional truss rod buried in there, the typical Asian style that takes a hex key (Allen Wrench) to adjust thru the hole.
That looks like a good fit, time to shape it.
First we need to transfer the radius of the fretboard to the nut blank.
Easy to do just follow the radius and scribe it with a pencil.
Then back to the beltsander to radius the nut and grind the fallaway.
Now all to do is transfer the string spacing from the original nut to the new blank and start the string slots with the proper size nut files.
The final action is set by feel, with the strings at tension, being careful to transfer the fallaway to the slots as well.
Once the action at the first fret is to your liking, you're done. Glue that sucker in place.
That's how I carve my nuts.
Lets make a new bone nut from scratch.
First we need some bone.
Same ones from the pet store that I give my dog.
I cut out an oversized blank on the scroll saw and square it up on the belt sander.
Getting the thickness just right so it nestles in the old nut slot.
Pay no attention to the odd looking truss rod groove, it was originally bondo to hold the lower screw in place.
It's now epoxy. Still a halfassed bandaid but much more permanent, after all it's still a Chibson.
There is a functional truss rod buried in there, the typical Asian style that takes a hex key (Allen Wrench) to adjust thru the hole.
That looks like a good fit, time to shape it.
First we need to transfer the radius of the fretboard to the nut blank.
Easy to do just follow the radius and scribe it with a pencil.
Then back to the beltsander to radius the nut and grind the fallaway.
Now all to do is transfer the string spacing from the original nut to the new blank and start the string slots with the proper size nut files.
The final action is set by feel, with the strings at tension, being careful to transfer the fallaway to the slots as well.
Once the action at the first fret is to your liking, you're done. Glue that sucker in place.
That's how I carve my nuts.
Unless the wife is watching then act busy 
