It's a Chibson...

They also didnt make one in 1970!!! the fake serial # says its a 1970 model--- with AFD---- graphics----- wow someone at Gibson was clairvoyant! buwhahahaha
They had not even made Slash in 1970, much less his guitar
 
Great work Hack. When you say you "sunk the bridge and tailpiece anchors", do you mean the bushings?
 
Great work Hack. When you say you "sunk the bridge and tailpiece anchors", do you mean the bushings?
Yes, the little raised edge at the top of the bushings gets removed.
DSC06563_zpsrvsk4lrz.jpg

Then the bushings can fit flush with the top. This lets the bridge sit lower if needed and allows the tailpiece to sit down right on the top, for top wrapping
or future Bigsby B7 installation.
 
Exemplary work as usual Mr. Hack!
Is this the same Chibby Adrian had put the Jackson bridge pu in?

I'm the same on the G logo and serial number markings; they would have to go.
I dont think anyone here would try to benefit from it, but if sold off into the wild, maybe the next guy scams someone like me who cant tell the difference on a reasonably good fake.

I think Adrian may be on to something; rogue operators at a plant where Epiphone is made.

Aren't the bridge and tail hole spacing different for USA vs imports?
NOt clear on what bridge you are using or how the conversion studs differ from the typical import hardware.
 
Yes, the little raised edge at the top of the bushings gets removed.
DSC06563_zpsrvsk4lrz.jpg

Then the bushings can fit flush with the top. This lets the bridge sit lower if needed and allows the tailpiece to sit down right on the top, for top wrapping
or future Bigsby B7 installation.
Thanks. So do you grind it off?
 
Yes, do tell.
Forstner bit?

"
Benjamin Forstner (25 March 1834 - 27 February 1897), was an American gunsmith, inventor and dry goods merchant.

Forstner was born in Beaver County, Pennsylvania. His successful invention of the Forstner bit, patented in 1886,[1] was to make him a rich man. Without the lead screw (which Forstner called the "gimlet-point") and cutting lips of more conventional wood boring bits it would prove especially useful to gunsmiths like himself and other high-end woodworkers. The bit was unsurpassed in drilling an exceedingly smooth-sided hole with a flat bottom.
"
 
You can buy an extraction tool from Stewmack...or make one with a deep welled socket, appropriately threaded bolt, and a sponge(or suitable cushion material).
I’ve seen pvc used as well.
 
I put a small ball bearing in the hole, put the screw in the hole and tighten it up slowly. It pulls the bushing up.

Now that is an interesting idea. Sure sounds reasonable, assuming the bearing isn't obstructed.

You can buy an extraction tool from Stewmack...or make one with a deep welled socket, appropriately threaded bolt, and a sponge(or suitable cushion material).
I’ve seen pvc used as well.

Ahh, they have a tool for everything, don't they?

I've never had to do it before. I was worried that my ground wire is being compromised from several pot removals, and I believe the bushing anchors the ground wire. Turns out I didn't need to do it.

If it's removed once or twice, will it still seat properly when replaced? You know, tight enough I guess I'm saying.
 
Now that is an interesting idea. Sure sounds reasonable, assuming the bearing isn't obstructed.



Ahh, they have a tool for everything, don't they?

I've never had to do it before. I was worried that my ground wire is being compromised from several pot removals, and I believe the bushing anchors the ground wire. Turns out I didn't need to do it.

If it's removed once or twice, will it still seat properly when replaced? You know, tight enough I guess I'm saying.

I use a 1/2 inch drive socket that I purchased for a piece of plumbing years ago, and I use whatever is around for cushion on the Guitar face. I’ve only ever pulled them for ground wire replacement.

The store bought version:

Schatten Knob and Bushing Puller | stewmac.com
 
What is the proper way to remove the bushings without destroying the guitar?
I use a long bolt (3") threaded all the way, screw it in till it bottoms, then it pushes the bushing up.
No risk of damage to the top. You have to wonder about this method on SG's though. How much wood are you really pushing against??? 1/4", 1/2"???
 
Exemplary work as usual Mr. Hack!
Is this the same Chibby Adrian had put the Jackson bridge pu in?

I'm the same on the G logo and serial number markings; they would have to go.
I dont think anyone here would try to benefit from it, but if sold off into the wild, maybe the next guy scams someone like me who cant tell the difference on a reasonably good fake.

I think Adrian may be on to something; rogue operators at a plant where Epiphone is made.

Aren't the bridge and tail hole spacing different for USA vs imports?
NOt clear on what bridge you are using or how the conversion studs differ from the typical import hardware.
The studs are the same on the bottom, smaller on the top, so a Gibson ABR-1 can be used.
Adrian's Chibby is still in his posession.
 
Exemplary work as usual Mr. Hack!
Is this the same Chibby Adrian had put the Jackson bridge pu in?

I'm the same on the G logo and serial number markings; they would have to go.
I dont think anyone here would try to benefit from it, but if sold off into the wild, maybe the next guy scams someone like me who cant tell the difference on a reasonably good fake.

I think Adrian may be on to something; rogue operators at a plant where Epiphone is made.

Aren't the bridge and tail hole spacing different for USA vs imports?
NOt clear on what bridge you are using or how the conversion studs differ from the typical import hardware.

No I still have my Chibby and I WILLINGLY put the Jackson pups in I LOVE EM THEY SOUND AWESOME---

my basis and reasoning for the "epi/Chibby connection" is the fact my Chibson came WITH epiphone branded pups -- identical wiring to EPiphone guitars I own/owned-- same bridge and tailpiece (says epiphone stamped in the back) ----other than headstock shape and labeling----- its an Epi---er was now its a ChibepiJack--son...
 
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