"Tele" style neck rebuild

Dewesq55

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The first guitar I ever built was this all maple teleshape. The truss rod was never set correctly so I couldn't ever get the neck straight under string tension:
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So I decided that before building a whole new neck, I would see if I could salvage the original by removing the truss rod and installing a new one. Here are some pics of the process, which is going reasonably well so far:

Step one - Remove the fret board:
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I used an iron, a utility knife and aflexible palate knife. You can see it is coming off in pieces because once before, in an effort to make it playable, I flattened the fretboard toouck and recutting the slots went right through.

Here it is completely removed:
IMG_20161213_122743-2000x1496.jpg

Step two - remove the fillet. I used a Fein MultiMaster to saw down the gluelines on each side if the fillet and then pried (or prised for thise across the pond) it up in sections:
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Step three - remove the truss rod. It come out easy after I cut the buggered adjustment nut off:
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Next step will be to use a router to clean the channel out. I am planning to buy a double action rod from StewMac.
 
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Well, as I posted in the fretboard radius jig thread, i radiused the maple fretboard blank to a vintage 7.5". I now need to sorry l slot it, profile it, dot it, mount it and fret it. Won't be long now until I have three working electrics, a bass and an acoustic. And at the rate the V is progressing, it will soon be 4 playable electrics.
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Looks great!!

2 questions
- why crazy glue for the markers rather than the tite bond?
- will you stop sanding at 120 grit? I thought you might go with a higher grit for a smoother FB
 
Looks great!!

2 questions
- why crazy glue for the markers rather than the tite bond?
- will you stop sanding at 120 grit? I thought you might go with a higher grit for a smoother FB
Good queations:

1) CA (crazy glue) sets up really fast and has no visible glue line. You could definitely use PVA glue or epoxy. FWIW, StewMac/Dan Erlewine (who you know is my guru/"mentor from afar") recommends CA glue.
2) I will probably go to 220 grit before finishing, but wasn't going to get there today and wanted to post a pic. Actually, I started with 150 but was not happy with how long it was taking to sand down the dots flush so I dropped down to 120. Those router bit ripples that I showed you (RVA) yesterday that look like flame grain are stubborn. They are still not completely gone, but I will probably move on to 150, then 180 and then 220 grit.

One very minor issue: the dot at the 9th fret is low (below flush). I will have to fill rhe slight void during finishing. Perhaps with CA glue.
 
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man thats nice.im glad im not set up or know how to do that or id be makin guitars all the time lol.id be like the guy with the cutout outline of a Tele in his kitchen table lol
RVA asked me yesterday "Why would you ever buy a guitar?" He's kinda right, except I really want an ES type semi-hillow with a Bigsby and doing an archtop semi-hollow is too daunting for the foreseeable future.
 
Got the fretboard profiled and shaped to the neck. Despite taping the neck up, the finish got a bit dinged up so I will have to refinish the whole neck. I also decided to modify it to have the Fender style thin nut embedded into a channel before the end of the fingerboard. To do it, I had to shape and add a piece of wood. It has the secondary benefit of covering up the mess I made trying get the old truss rod nut off.
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