Strap locks

jtcnj said:
had 1 guitar with the Dunlop type; didnt like it
Much prefer the rubber washer / Grolsch or other by far.
They tend to spin the strap button though so you gotta check them to see if the screw is backing out.
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I have never had any problems with the rubber washers. I have had the screw strip out because the guy that installed the locks did a bad job. I have straps on all my guitars because I play on a concrete floor. I play most of them on stage. A minor problem like a strap failure could really make for a bad time of it.
 
Robert Herndon said:
This is the #1 repair request and almost all of them are Gibson's. I install only Dunlops with MojoAxe #8 screws machined to fit the Dunlop posts...

View attachment 12244
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And Dunlops are my least favorite of all. The design is prone to failure if used a lot.

Backing up a bit, I used to have straplocks on my guitars in the early-to-mid '80's. Only had 2 guitars at the time, my #1 (77 LPC) and a backup (don't know which year but an early 70's SG that was actually a long-term loan). The SG has Schaller straplocks and the Les Paul had Dunlops. I was playing with the guitar strapped on for a minimum of 2-hours a day, lots more on days with gigs and weekends so I was giving the guitar and the straplocks quite a workout, and it's the only time I almost had a guitar hit the floor - the design of the Dunlop sucks because the little balls wear a groove in the button and after a while they just won't hold on any more. Where they fit onto the LP makes matters worse because there is constant tension on the straplock. Maybe if I didn't play a Les Paul. Maybe if I didn't play so many hours. I don't know, but when the straplock failed and almost took out my LP they immediately came off the guitar and I have never looked back. I think that was probably sometime in 1985. Started using the washers then, and have never come close to losing a guitar again.
 
gball said:
And Dunlops are my least favorite of all. The design is prone to failure if used a lot.

Backing up a bit, I used to have straplocks on my guitars in the early-to-mid '80's. Only had 2 guitars at the time, my #1 (77 LPC) and a backup (don't know which year but an early 70's SG that was actually a long-term loan). The SG has Schaller straplocks and the Les Paul had Dunlops. I was playing with the guitar strapped on for a minimum of 2-hours a day, lots more on days with gigs and weekends so I was giving the guitar and the straplocks quite a workout, and it's the only time I almost had a guitar hit the floor - the design of the Dunlop sucks because the little balls wear a groove in the button and after a while they just won't hold on any more. Where they fit onto the LP makes matters worse because there is constant tension on the straplock. Maybe if I didn't play a Les Paul. Maybe if I didn't play so many hours. I don't know, but when the straplock failed and almost took out my LP they immediately came off the guitar and I have never looked back. I think that was probably sometime in 1985. Started using the washers then, and have never come close to losing a guitar again.
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I've had good fortune with Dunflops, but I clean them with a Q-tip and WD-40 regularly and lube them lightly with CLP.

Now, on the Von Herndon guitars, I included Schaller's strap lock with every guitar, just because so many people seem to favor them...seems like everyone should include Straplocks with a guitar, at least in my mind...
 
I have quite a few guitars in my collection and some have strap-locks which I find very useful especially if your on stage and don't want your guitar to accidentally drop. I have both Jim Dunlops and Schaller strap locks which I find both comparable in quality. As long as they work well then they are fine with me.


;>)/
 
I have Dunlops on most of my guitars & their straps. As Robert said, if you maintain them, clean & lightly lubricate periodically they are fine. My strat came stock with Schallers which I also like so long as attention is paid to a couple of points. A little "Blue Loktite" is needed when fitting the locks to strap to prevent them loosening. Also the little ball on the end of the unlock pin is screwed on & can also loosen & come off so a tiny bit of Blue Loktite on that also. Periodic lubrication too, of course. I haven't seen them back the button mounting screw out from not being lubricated but figure its better to be safe than sorry. I have seen the Grolsch washers back the screw out a little over time, but if one was vigilant I don't see it being a problem. Cheers
 
Don O said:
I use the screw that came with the guitar.
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I have to ask... Do most people also shorten the screw that came with the guitar to account for the extra 2.5ish mm of depth that the strap lock buttons allow the screw to countersink?(Gibson style buttons are what I’m referring to mostly, with the screws level with the button face, but there are other OEM setups that I’ve seen that are similar)

My vote is mostly Grolsch washers, but Schaller/Fender locks on Strat like objects(if not already equipped. Les Paul shaped objects I go with my gut...either/or. My guitars with a strap button at the neck heel always get the Grolsch washers.
 
Thatbastarddon said:
I have to ask... Do most people also shorten the screw that came with the guitar to account for the extra 2.5ish mm of depth that the strap lock buttons allow the screw to countersink?(Gibson style buttons are what I’m referring to mostly, with the screws level with the button face, but there are other OEM setups that I’ve seen that are similar)

My vote is mostly Grolsch washers, but Schaller/Fender locks on Strat like objects(if not already equipped. Les Paul shaped objects I go with my gut...either/or. My guitars with a strap button at the neck heel always get the Grolsch washers.
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I did the PRS yesterday. That screw must have been at least 1 1/4”. I used the original.
 
Don O said:
I did the PRS yesterday. That screw must have been at least 1 1/4”. I used the original.
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That’s all well and good. My point is to remind those that own a guitar that has a strap pin behind the fretboard to think before they drive that original screw a little too far, potentially.
For example, how close to an unpleasant experience might the original screw be for an SG?
5FC6DB30-B0AA-4652-B767-C1B29B8A3F27.jpeg
If the screw were driven in to the back of the fretboard by a couple of mm by using the original screw, driven in a bit more than it originally had been.

To accommodate the function of one of these:
6D648B13-2B7B-409D-9585-EF6E4C4D3AB5.jpeg

Please forgive my dusty axes and blurry pictures.
I have done what you did with Strat and LP style buttons with no ill effect, but I’m a little shy about bumping in to things at the neck heel...long screw vs short pilot hole...that’s all.:cheers:
 
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:D:D
Thatbastarddon said:
That’s all well and good. My point is to remind those that own a guitar that has a strap pin behind the fretboard to think before they drive that original screw a little too far, potentially.
For example, how close to an unpleasant experience might the original screw be for an SG?
View attachment 12310
If the screw were driven in to the back of the fretboard by a couple of mm by using the original screw, driven in a bit more than it originally had been.

To accommodate the function of one of these:
View attachment 12311

Please forgive my dusty axes and blurry pictures.
I have done what you did with Strat and LP style buttons with no ill effect, but I’m a little shy about bumping in to things at the neck heel...long screw vs short pilot hole...that’s all.:cheers:
Click to expand...

Oh, I agree if you are coming from behind. You always have to look at tolerance stack up.

For the record, this is talking about guitar bodies and wood screws.
 
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When I fitted the Dunlop's to my SG I shortened the Dunlop supplied screw so that it extended out the button to the same length as the Gibson one at the base of the neck. I had looked online before fitting them & read that if the screw is any longer than the Gibson one it will foul the truss rod anchor. Cheers
 
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