SG junior upgrades?
- Thread starter Mr Grumpy
- Start date
Goldmember
Ambassador of Golden Yoo-Hoos
Compensated, like this one on a '64 Junior?
Here’s a pic of the hipshot, no drilling, 18:1, locker with buttons that I mentioned.
OP
Mr Grumpy
Ambassador of Comings and Goings
Lots of good advice here, thank you, Gentlemen.
The tuners hold tune which is great, but the two issues (?) are: the buttons are small and aren't easy to grip - I can see why they changed to the larger tulip keystone type because they are easier to grip; the tuners don't seem to easily tune up and down precisely - that may be me... I'll give them another month then look at probably the ones below because they look somewhat traditional yet are easier to change strings and easier to grip aswellas being more precise (I hope).
(I do love the look of the white buttons on the junior, so will try to get used to them, but my fingers do fumble around them at the moment...)
Fretboardwise, it almost seems like the grain is so tight that the F-one oil isn't seeping into it; maybe I need to leave the oil on longer before wiping the board down? I'll have a look tonight when I get home and take some close-up pics (let's see if the macro function on my Sony Xperia XZ1 works or not...).
Bridgewise, ok, I'm not doing much that affects intonation, but I am working my scales up and down the fretboard hoping to develop solos (however basic...), so while I haven't had a problem yet, I'm kinda thinking ahead. If and when I get to that point, I like the one below because it looks like the original and has good write-ups.
I also agree with folks that say just normal string placement on a good nut and normal tuners usually holds tune well. I think I got lazy with the SG future tribute and my fugly Cort tele where you change strings in double-quick time, and don't even need to stretch the strings out; this leads me to think that stretching the strings is really just tightening the strings to the top of the string post and making sure there's no grip in the nut - if the nut is all good then you put strings on the locking tuners and are ready to go; just easy. I know it's not a biggie, and in some ways, doing some scales up and down followed by some powerchords for 5 minutes, stretching the strings, retuning then repeating 2 or 3 times is good technique practice!
The tuners hold tune which is great, but the two issues (?) are: the buttons are small and aren't easy to grip - I can see why they changed to the larger tulip keystone type because they are easier to grip; the tuners don't seem to easily tune up and down precisely - that may be me... I'll give them another month then look at probably the ones below because they look somewhat traditional yet are easier to change strings and easier to grip aswellas being more precise (I hope).
(I do love the look of the white buttons on the junior, so will try to get used to them, but my fingers do fumble around them at the moment...)
Fretboardwise, it almost seems like the grain is so tight that the F-one oil isn't seeping into it; maybe I need to leave the oil on longer before wiping the board down? I'll have a look tonight when I get home and take some close-up pics (let's see if the macro function on my Sony Xperia XZ1 works or not...).
Bridgewise, ok, I'm not doing much that affects intonation, but I am working my scales up and down the fretboard hoping to develop solos (however basic...), so while I haven't had a problem yet, I'm kinda thinking ahead. If and when I get to that point, I like the one below because it looks like the original and has good write-ups.
I also agree with folks that say just normal string placement on a good nut and normal tuners usually holds tune well. I think I got lazy with the SG future tribute and my fugly Cort tele where you change strings in double-quick time, and don't even need to stretch the strings out; this leads me to think that stretching the strings is really just tightening the strings to the top of the string post and making sure there's no grip in the nut - if the nut is all good then you put strings on the locking tuners and are ready to go; just easy. I know it's not a biggie, and in some ways, doing some scales up and down followed by some powerchords for 5 minutes, stretching the strings, retuning then repeating 2 or 3 times is good technique practice!
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syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
Those Kluson's looks like the ticket that Mr Grumpy wants, but with the Hipshot Butter Bean buttons in pearl suggested by that BastarDon fella. Or just get the whole Hipshot system, especially if they drop right in.
I was just thinking of something with modern functionality, that retained the look of an original Jr set up. Three per side on a plate with white buttons, gears showing. Not really old school, but looks it at a glance.
If ergonomics are the key(just being punny) over the original look, then the Klusons look to be a great choice. Fact is, I’ve been eyeballing them for my crescent moon SG. Thing is, the stock Gibson ones are working flawlessly, and I haven’t been playing out much...that’s when the lockers can really save a night.
If the buttons remain fumbly, I’m sure the tulips will look great.
I have a good fine motor skill set with my left hand(I’m a lefty playing righty) so ratio doesn't bother me much, as I adapt quickly.
If ergonomics are the key(just being punny) over the original look, then the Klusons look to be a great choice. Fact is, I’ve been eyeballing them for my crescent moon SG. Thing is, the stock Gibson ones are working flawlessly, and I haven’t been playing out much...that’s when the lockers can really save a night.
If the buttons remain fumbly, I’m sure the tulips will look great.
I have a good fine motor skill set with my left hand(I’m a lefty playing righty) so ratio doesn't bother me much, as I adapt quickly.
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
Funny you should say that... On my '02 SG "Moony", because 2 of the tuners were damaged because of neglect from the previous owner, I replaced them with Grover Rotomatics. They are really nice locking style tuners, but are much heavier than the original tuners. Had I known about those thumb wheel locking Klusons, which are much lighter than the Grover's, I might have taken that route instead.
syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
Well, that's the original one. But if you're going string that vintage SG with a unwound G string, the intonation is going to be way off. In that case... enter the modern Lightning Bolt... uhm, courtesy of one of my SG's (shameless plug, I know):Compensated, like this one on a '64 Junior?
I still might try this, one day... A Faber compensated:
But, my favorite that I would really like to try is the PRS. This is Frick'n beautiful:
OP
Mr Grumpy
Ambassador of Comings and Goings
^ that's a lovely white SG; is it a special/classic (I like the binding).
I prefer the plain looking bridge to the compensated lightening and others which is why the Mojoaxe might be a good choice - it looks pretty similar to the original uncompensated bridge. But, I will play her for another month before changing anything.
So, put the 9-46s Ernie Ball strings on, left the guitar to settle overnight, and there was some buzzing on the A and especially the D & G up until the 7th fret or so. I loosened the trussrod 1/8th of a turn - back to perfect; a sensitive little neck.
Not perfect is the fretboard, it just seems weird and bitty. It doesn't look bad in the hand/on the stand, and it plays fine, but on these close-up 24MP shots you can see what I mean. I will try the Dunlop 'lemon oil'.
(Those close shots look terrible - it really isn't that bad!)
I prefer the plain looking bridge to the compensated lightening and others which is why the Mojoaxe might be a good choice - it looks pretty similar to the original uncompensated bridge. But, I will play her for another month before changing anything.
So, put the 9-46s Ernie Ball strings on, left the guitar to settle overnight, and there was some buzzing on the A and especially the D & G up until the 7th fret or so. I loosened the trussrod 1/8th of a turn - back to perfect; a sensitive little neck.
Not perfect is the fretboard, it just seems weird and bitty. It doesn't look bad in the hand/on the stand, and it plays fine, but on these close-up 24MP shots you can see what I mean. I will try the Dunlop 'lemon oil'.
(Those close shots look terrible - it really isn't that bad!)
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syscokid
Ambassador of War & Peace
That is a 2011 50th Anniversary Pete Townshend SG in alpine white. TTR member Bea has one, too. The pickguard was temporarily removed to show the fading of the white, and to outline a sketch for a new pickguard that I eventually ordered from Creamtone... GAS courtesy of Gahr.
Work the oil in with your fingers. With the grain and across the grain. Let it sit 5 minutes max, before wiping off the excess.
It could be the nature of the current supply of rosewood that Gibson is using on their more affordable line of guitars.
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
It's probably the Kluson Revolutions that would work best on the SG Junior, assuming that it has the modern bushings, just be aware that the buttons and the way that they attach to the tuner is closer to the system on a Grover than that on the regular Klusons.
Also the current production doesn't have the large 'K' ... those are pretty much all sold out. The current ones have the smaller 'Kluson' text. Not sure why that changed; I suspect they are made in a different factory now.
Factory nickel Klusons on the left, chrome Kluson Revolutions on the right:
Also the current production doesn't have the large 'K' ... those are pretty much all sold out. The current ones have the smaller 'Kluson' text. Not sure why that changed; I suspect they are made in a different factory now.
Factory nickel Klusons on the left, chrome Kluson Revolutions on the right:
Dave Sloven
Ambassador of DOOM!
I don't know whether those white buttons on the Grovers on my Junior also fit the Kluson Revolutions ... I should test that out
Grump, you’re over analyzing this. Put that 24 mega pixel down (you don’t own a microscope I hope
). The only relevant question is how does it feel?
It's probably the Kluson Revolutions that would work best on the SG Junior, assuming that it has the modern bushings, just be aware that the buttons and the way that they attach to the tuner is closer to the system on a Grover than that on the regular Klusons.
Also the current production doesn't have the large 'K' ... those are pretty much all sold out. The current ones have the smaller 'Kluson' text. Not sure why that changed; I suspect they are made in a different factory now.
Factory nickel Klusons on the left, chrome Kluson Revolutions on the right:
Judging by this pic(his, from his NGD thread), I’m guessing the bushings are modern...
The Kluson Revolutions should drop right in.
RVA
Ambassador
Yeah, I think these two will fit, both nice:
(I prefer the look of the white button Kluson Deluxe, but they aren't the best for tuning accuracy (although the seem to hold tune well - I'd like to quickly go between openE and dropD, but it takes a while with the current tuners):
Gotoh Locking Tuners Nickel
Tonepros have also bought these out, not locking, but supposed to be very accurate.
Locking tuners are just really nice for changing strings. Tonight was the first time in a while that I've changed strings without locking tuners, and it was a bit of a pain, took longer than I'd like, and yes I did cut my fingers...
Schaller Machine Heads - Original G-Series Deluxe Keystone DR Toplocking Nickel
