Same here. I never buy a guitar to make money with it. Just like modding cars, you never get your money back when you upgrade the parts.
I agree...
Same here. I never buy a guitar to make money with it. Just like modding cars, you never get your money back when you upgrade the parts.
I've just stripped down the guitar and test fitted the new trem. The two areas where I think it will be necessary to rout are behind the corners of the trem on the top (i.e., around the tremolo arm area and on the other side) and the cavity for the block and arm. The part for the block is fine but given the deeper bushing on the Gotoh it will be necessary to rout the cavity below the arm to the same size as the cavity for the block just to retain full travel. The knife edges and studs were pretty stuffed. One stud was loose. Here are some photos.
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Dave,
I noted the large hex on the Tremolo arm bushing on the left assembly. I've encountered issues with that on some guitars where I needed to relieve the body around it in order to be able to drop pitch as far as the client desired.
Also, on some bodies, I've had the thicker sustain blocks limit downward tremolo movement....
Yes, I am not surprised regarding the thicker blocks. I think the standard thickness brass block will be fine. It has a lot more mass to it than the pot metal block. I do think it will need to be routed to clear the arm bushing, but enlarging it to the same size as the block cavity should do the trick. The top recess needs to go back a little way there anyway and everything will be covered by the top of the trem