OP
is that Joshua Tree ?
Are you dropping peyote buttons and howling at the moon?
Only when the sun goes down..
Rob's Brand New Used 2016 Gibson Les Paul 50's Tribute Project:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
Only when the sun goes down..
OP
Ok....tune up time for this workhorse.
Off with the original strings....Faber Nickel Washers on stock studs lock the tailpiece screws solid and give just enough height the strings clear the bridge:
The original Gibson Green Keys - my favourites - go back on, replacing the Ratio Locking Tuners:
MojoAxe custom #8 screw attaches the lower Dunlop Straplock:
Regular Dunlop #6 screw in upper position:
Fretboard cleaned and oiled for the first time:
More work tomorrow....
Off with the original strings....Faber Nickel Washers on stock studs lock the tailpiece screws solid and give just enough height the strings clear the bridge:
The original Gibson Green Keys - my favourites - go back on, replacing the Ratio Locking Tuners:
MojoAxe custom #8 screw attaches the lower Dunlop Straplock:
Regular Dunlop #6 screw in upper position:
Fretboard cleaned and oiled for the first time:
More work tomorrow....
OP
Found out it was strung with .046 x .009's. Only have .010's on hand....
OP
Time to visit Guitar Sinner....
gball
Ambassador of Boogie
How long did you go with the original strings?
Curious, because for me, day 1 is remove the 9-46 strings and put 10's on and give it a set up. I have to do that before I can really even seriously play a new guitar.
eSGEe
Ferengi Ambassador of Trade
Robert---the longer screw for the strap button.........how MUCH longer is this ??? .025 of an inch? ....038?
YOU do realize -- this has now altered the entire tone of the wood ? Did you use a Titebond glue to ad strength to the screws? the Saps resonance BUT is awesome for helping hold the screw -- its like lock tite for wood......
Love ya Bobby -0- mean it--
Im going to go rub my junk on my explorer---------------it doesnt even HAVE strap buttons..........
YOU do realize -- this has now altered the entire tone of the wood ? Did you use a Titebond glue to ad strength to the screws? the Saps resonance BUT is awesome for helping hold the screw -- its like lock tite for wood......
Love ya Bobby -0- mean it--
Im going to go rub my junk on my explorer---------------it doesnt even HAVE strap buttons..........
OP
I got a couple of months, 4 live shows and several recordings out of these colored-ball strings.
They came off wavy like ramen noodles.
I like how the guitar plays, so I am gonna stick with .009's.
OP
Robert---the longer screw for the strap button.........how MUCH longer is this ??? .025 of an inch? ....038?
YOU do realize -- this has now altered the entire tone of the wood ? Did you use a Titebond glue to ad strength to the screws? the Saps resonance BUT is awesome for helping hold the screw -- its like lock tite for wood......
Love ya Bobby -0- mean it--
Im going to go rub my junk on my explorer---------------it doesnt even HAVE strap buttons..........
The MojoAxe #8 is at least a 1/4" longer than the stock #8 and the #6 is around 3/8" longer than the stock one...they are solid, Man....plus this allows me to use my 38 year old homemade leather strap....
OP
Band rehearsal has been moved up to tomorrow, so it looks like I wont have time to finish the copper shielding project.
Faber TP-59 Locking Aluminum Tailpiece installed. Nickel spacers added just enough for strings to clear bridge:
Plastic jack plate replaced with metal:
G/b/e strings installed with half hitch method shown to me by Wayne Charvel:
Faber TP-59 Locking Aluminum Tailpiece installed. Nickel spacers added just enough for strings to clear bridge:
Plastic jack plate replaced with metal:
G/b/e strings installed with half hitch method shown to me by Wayne Charvel:
OP
I'm happy with the PCB and 498T/490R combination. My only complaint is the light buzz when not holding the strings - a condition that stopped immediately in my Gibson SG.
So, here's what I'm considering....
I'm gonna pull the PCB and shield the cavity - with either the copper tape or the shielding paint that I have left over - then apply Scotch 33+ electrical tape to the back of the PCB so none of the positive traces get grounded, shield the back of the cover and see how much just doing that helps the issue....
What's better??? Tape or Shielding Paint???
So, here's what I'm considering....
I'm gonna pull the PCB and shield the cavity - with either the copper tape or the shielding paint that I have left over - then apply Scotch 33+ electrical tape to the back of the PCB so none of the positive traces get grounded, shield the back of the cover and see how much just doing that helps the issue....
What's better??? Tape or Shielding Paint???
gball
Ambassador of Boogie
I've never had any issues with the PCB-loaded guitars I have owned (down to just one now). It's actually a great solution.
OP
The fretboard oiling and new strings really improved the feel. I had been recording everything with .009's, so I stuck with .046 x .009's. I made a very slight adjustment to the 'D' and 'e' strings to pull them in, but this really was splitting hairs I think.
No time for shielding just yet, but MAN what a difference the aluminum tailpiece made!
The guitar is much louder acoustically, which could be due, at least in part, to the strings, but the difference on a recording is very noticeable in comparison. More articulation. Brighter. More felt vibration in the guitar.
Also, the 46x9 EB's feel lighter than the D'addario 46x9's that I pulled off and I mic'd every string to be sure I was going back with exactly what I had been using over the past month. I did not want to changes anything relating to how it felt.
A huge bonus is how good it sounds with the insane amounts of bass I am now running on my signal. There's no muddiness whatsoever. Even with the bass rolled up, there's still a cutting mid/high overtone present.
So, today we are going to be running my amp through a 1980's Jackson 4x12 cabinet as a tonal experiment as we try and nail down or live sound.
I snapped the strap I made in 1980 onto my Les Paul for the first time today...
This strap can be seen in this photo from 1983:
I can't believe that i still have it after all these years...moving, divorce, foreclosure...being homeless at one point.
Silly, I suppose, but very amazing to me...so much history...so many memories in a simple piece of leather.
Today's gonna be a good day...
No time for shielding just yet, but MAN what a difference the aluminum tailpiece made!
The guitar is much louder acoustically, which could be due, at least in part, to the strings, but the difference on a recording is very noticeable in comparison. More articulation. Brighter. More felt vibration in the guitar.
Also, the 46x9 EB's feel lighter than the D'addario 46x9's that I pulled off and I mic'd every string to be sure I was going back with exactly what I had been using over the past month. I did not want to changes anything relating to how it felt.
A huge bonus is how good it sounds with the insane amounts of bass I am now running on my signal. There's no muddiness whatsoever. Even with the bass rolled up, there's still a cutting mid/high overtone present.
So, today we are going to be running my amp through a 1980's Jackson 4x12 cabinet as a tonal experiment as we try and nail down or live sound.
I snapped the strap I made in 1980 onto my Les Paul for the first time today...
This strap can be seen in this photo from 1983:
I can't believe that i still have it after all these years...moving, divorce, foreclosure...being homeless at one point.
Silly, I suppose, but very amazing to me...so much history...so many memories in a simple piece of leather.
Today's gonna be a good day...
OP
Wow! 5 hours straight through standing! The Valvestate VS265 2X12 Stereo Chorus Combo reigned supreme over the Blackstar ID-CORE 100watt and Marshall DSL40C.
Here's a shot of my control panel once we had a good mix:
Here's a shot of our high tech rackmount stuff...
Here's a shot of my control panel once we had a good mix:
Here's a shot of our high tech rackmount stuff...
OP
DEFINITELY needs to be shielded....If I get my cell phone anywhere NEAR the Les Paul, it goes totally crazy...Does not affect my hand-shielded S-G....
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ivan H
Ambassador of Tubes & Grooves
I've always used the Allparts conductive adhesive copper foil (both 12x12" sheet & ribbon) which as you know works well. The only experience I have with the paint is my Jackson that came stock with it applied. Works well, the guitar is as quiet as any of my foil shielded guitars. I've read that at least two coats of the paint should be applied.
I'd like to see Gibson bring back the Norlin era ashtray & can type shielding, though it would be difficult to do it with PCB equipped guitars. Cheers
OP
Good points.
On the PCB Gibson's, you need to insulate the traces on the back of the PCB to keep them from grounding. Some have suggested a trimmed section of manila folder or black electrical tape.
I will start by shielding the control cavity and cover only, then see what effect that has before moving onto other areas...