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The problem with the DSL40C - and Don O confirmed this on his own DSL40C - is when you roll up enough gain, palm muted sections - especially F# - are a muddy mess.

Just curious...

On your particular amp, where is your gain setting when you start to get the muddy sound?

And, is it only on palm mutes where you experience this?
 
Just curious...

On your particular amp, where is your gain setting when you start to get the muddy sound?

And, is it only on palm mutes where you experience this?

Palm mutes really seem to exploit the condition. Any gain a over 12 noon on lead 1 or 10 am on lead 2
 
Transtube Series Bandit 112 (1996-1999) The Transtube Series Bandit 112 formally introduced Peavey's proprietary "Transtube" technology that allows a solid state amplifier to perform more like a vacuum tube amplifier. Central to the Transtube concept is a patented "power brake" that allows the user to control the amount of power required for dynamic range compression from the power amp, from 100% all the way down to 10%, thus enabling the amplifier to achieve power amp compression without running at full volume. The Transtube Series Bandit 112 was made in Meridian MS USA and came stock with the Sheffield 1230 speaker. Notably, it was also the first Bandit to have an external speaker jack, allowing external speakers to be run instead of or in parallel with the internal speaker. Running into 8 ohms, power is still 80 watts RMS, but running into 4 ohms (the equivalent of using the internal 8 ohm speaker together with an 8 ohm extension speaker) the power is increased to 100 watts RMS. Due to the horizontal strip of chrome underneath the controls, this version is commonly referred to as the "Silver Stripe" Bandit, but due to the black color and square shape, it is sometimes called the "Black box" or "silver stripe" Bandit
 
My preamp is mainly Ruby 12AX7AC5 HG+ tubes ... I did have a Sovtek in the PI spot but it became unstable and had to be replaced. The Tung Sol 12AX7A tubes I had in the preamp all crapped out in under a year. The Ruby tubes are pretty tough and have a nice sound. They suit amps with cascading gain stages like the 5150/6505 series or the high-gain ENGL amps etc
 
Dark and muddy is usually a product of amp design and components, often the capacitors used.

The (recent) Peavey Butcher and Peavey 6534+ use the same tubes but are completely different beasts. The Butcher is old school, dark and muddy, whereas the 6534+ is much brighter, gainy, and aggressive.
 
Dark and muddy is usually a product of amp design and components, often the capacitors used.

The (recent) Peavey Butcher and Peavey 6534+ use the same tubes but are completely different beasts. The Butcher is old school, dark and muddy, whereas the 6534+ is much brighter, gainy, and aggressive.

Good points!

I must say the Russian made Genelex B759 really woke this amp up....

20190411_080519.jpg

But honestly, the 2x12 Valvestate's have a better metal tone
 
So, here's my current tube loadout as we await th he TS-808 from Chas-Fred:

V1 - Genelex B759 gain factor of 10.0

V2 - JJ-ECC83S gain factor of 7.3

V3 - JJ-ECC83MG gain factor of 4.3

V4 - JJ-5751 gain factor of 3.7


Think there would be any gain advantage to replacing positions V3 and V4 with JJ-ECC83S???
 
So, here's my current tube loadout as we await th he TS-808 from Chas-Fred:

V1 - Genelex B759 gain factor of 10.0

V2 - JJ-ECC83S gain factor of 7.3

V3 - JJ-ECC83MG gain factor of 4.3

V4 - JJ-5751 gain factor of 3.7


Think there would be any gain advantage to replacing positions V3 and V4 with JJ-ECC83S???

Yes. V4 is your phase inverter, which is arguably the most important tube in the amp and that 5751 might be part of the source of your mush. I'd immediately get a matched triode 12AX7 in there personally, or at least a 12AT7 if the goal is to give some more headroom. I've had great luck with 5751's in V1 and V2 of some amps, but never liked them in the PI spot. But mostly what I have found with amps is they were designed around a certain tube and that's what they tend to work best with.
 
Yes. V4 is your phase inverter, which is arguably the most important tube in the amp and that 5751 might be part of the source of your mush. I'd immediately get a matched triode 12AX7 in there personally, or at least a 12AT7 if the goal is to give some more headroom. I've had great luck with 5751's in V1 and V2 of some amps, but never liked them in the PI spot. But mostly what I have found with amps is they were designed around a certain tube and that's what they tend to work best with.

I actually used 5751 in the PI based on a recommendation from both Eurotubes and Amplified Parts...but it doesn't hurt to swap it out.

I think all I have left are some NOS Ken-Rad Pewter Plates...
 
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