Prop Guitar For Hendrix Flaming Guitar Re-creation Video:
- Thread starter Inspector #20
- Start date
OP
We are recording with it tonight and it's not even 100% complete.
Here's our engineer playing it...
Here's our engineer playing it...
OP
Through the studio's JCM800 without any FX, the 9.45k 'neck pickup is very bright and doesn't produce a lot of gain, but it has a really nice tone, very Angus Youngish....
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
It looks great , Robert!
OP
Thanks! It's definitely a stripped-down hot rod...
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
I have always thought of building a bright yellow HSS Strat with all black hardware and an ebony neck.
OP
It's a super light (4.6 pounds) guitar. The yellow and black always looks good too. A great neck - such as Warmoth or Musikraft - would make it a really great guitar.
OP
Honest comparison:
The Yellow Strat is a nice guitar. It's like a 1968 Nova with a 427. Fast and light. Tremolo works great and stays in tune. The Artec hum canceling pickups are excellent and balance perfectly with the 9.45k bridge humbucker.
The biggest advantage of the Yellow Stratocaster is the versatility of the tone controls with the 0.01uf tone capacitors. Full 360° use of the tone control is possible.
But, when I pick up the Schecter Hellraiser C1FR, it's like a Lamborghini.
The ergonomic advances in the Schecter build, like neck-through construction, contoured heel, compound radius fretboard and fabulous neck profile, just really stands out immediately.
For a live performance, either guitar would work just fine. You will NEVER hear subtlties in a live mix, so it becomes all about feel.
The Jackson is another great guitar and I use it regularly.
The Yellow Strat is a nice guitar. It's like a 1968 Nova with a 427. Fast and light. Tremolo works great and stays in tune. The Artec hum canceling pickups are excellent and balance perfectly with the 9.45k bridge humbucker.
The biggest advantage of the Yellow Stratocaster is the versatility of the tone controls with the 0.01uf tone capacitors. Full 360° use of the tone control is possible.
But, when I pick up the Schecter Hellraiser C1FR, it's like a Lamborghini.
The ergonomic advances in the Schecter build, like neck-through construction, contoured heel, compound radius fretboard and fabulous neck profile, just really stands out immediately.
For a live performance, either guitar would work just fine. You will NEVER hear subtlties in a live mix, so it becomes all about feel.
The Jackson is another great guitar and I use it regularly.
OP
Gonna put a Dimarzio DP100 in the bridge of Yellow Stratocaster. The 9.45k Dirty Fingers (neck) doesn't have the output to match my other guitars...
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
I would have thought that the Dirty Fingers would have more than enough! The Super D should get you there, no doubt!
OP
Warmoth Super-Wide Stratocaster Neck
1-7/8" wide @ nut - stock Strat heel
1.00 " thick from 1st fret to heel
Mahogany Shaft/Maccasar Ebony Board
Stock Fender heel/pocket dimensions
10" x 16" compound radius fretboard
22 Frets - 6230 Wire .037" x .077"
Graph Tech White Nut
Cream dot markers
$300.00
1-7/8" wide @ nut - stock Strat heel
1.00 " thick from 1st fret to heel
Mahogany Shaft/Maccasar Ebony Board
Stock Fender heel/pocket dimensions
10" x 16" compound radius fretboard
22 Frets - 6230 Wire .037" x .077"
Graph Tech White Nut
Cream dot markers
$300.00
Last edited:
OP
I thought about bare maple...but mahogany seems to fare better unfinished...
ninjaking67
Ambassador of Good Will
Just put a coat or two of Tru-Oil on it and call it a day!
OP
I'm thinking Danish Oil or Lindseed Oil for the mahogany shaft.
I'm wondering now if mahogany is perhaps too soft???
OP
Ok...
I've given a lot of thought to neck wood for this project. I feel like mahogany is too flexible and I want to avoid temp/humidity changes as much as possible. Walnut was my next thought, but after some consideration, I think roasted maple would yield the most temperature and humidity resistant neck.
This proposed neck build will have the large, CBS headstock and a custom nut width of 1-3/4" along with a white Graph-Tech nut. A double-acting truss rod will be used. Tuner holes will be 10mm/13/32" for widest possible tuner options.
Fretboard will be Macassar Ebony with stainless '6230' fretwire in the early Fender style, which is .080" wide and .037" tall.
That's what I have up on the screen now anyways...
I've given a lot of thought to neck wood for this project. I feel like mahogany is too flexible and I want to avoid temp/humidity changes as much as possible. Walnut was my next thought, but after some consideration, I think roasted maple would yield the most temperature and humidity resistant neck.
This proposed neck build will have the large, CBS headstock and a custom nut width of 1-3/4" along with a white Graph-Tech nut. A double-acting truss rod will be used. Tuner holes will be 10mm/13/32" for widest possible tuner options.
Fretboard will be Macassar Ebony with stainless '6230' fretwire in the early Fender style, which is .080" wide and .037" tall.
That's what I have up on the screen now anyways...
OP
Going with one-pirce roasted maple saves me $110.00 on the neck finish.
Anybody got a good quality set of 10mm tuners laying around???
I considered using vintage style tuners - with the pressed in ferrules also.
I have played a lot of old Strats with those split shaft tuners that never went out of tune.
Definitely do not want locking tuners...
Anybody got a good quality set of 10mm tuners laying around???
I considered using vintage style tuners - with the pressed in ferrules also.
I have played a lot of old Strats with those split shaft tuners that never went out of tune.
Definitely do not want locking tuners...
OP
Robert, no I haven’t. I did my first Warmoth build in December 2018 (after joining this place in Feb). I’m on my 6th Warmoth build and I don’t think I’ve played any of them yet hard enough to even require a string change
. They all have either 6105 or 6150 SS frets.
OP
Robert, no I haven’t. I did my first Warmoth build in December 2018 (after joining this place in Feb). I’m on my 6th Warmoth build and I don’t think I’ve played any of them yet hard enough to even require a string change
I'm really torn about this neck project, with regard to the types of wood, etc., but I'm pretty sure I want to use stainless frets in the skinny, vintage Fender configuration. I like those short, narrow frets the best.